Thanks caferacermike! Your post will be the most helpful.
I knew corals would take nutrients from the water so I was planning to add STRONTIUM, CALCIUM and IODINE supplements according to the bottle directions.
We are told to maintain the levels of PH and ALK in freshwater tanks too but I've never had buffer either before. I always believed that if the water is clean, correct substrates are used, the tank is cycled and ammonia/stock levels are controlled that the natural bacteria would take care of the rest. Carbon would take care of toxins, chlorine and anything else that MIGHT go wrong and give it that sparkling drinking water quality!
At the LFSs, they're always pushing chemicals and test kits to noobs and it drives me nuts when my friends add stuff to their tanks when THERE'S NOTHING WRONG!!! Buffer, buffer, buffer... I go to the LFS and I see the salesman selling a brand new tank to a noob with test kits, additives and buffers.
Now with my marine tank, I know the water parameters are very specific and I'm not going to take any chances so I'm going to monitor everything. What would cause PH, ALK, and MAG levels to rise and fall? Could they be indicators of something? I will monitor them and buffer them as to your instructions.
The tank is and All-Glass 110X (110 gal extra-tall), the dimensions are 48x18x30 so the T-5 strip is 48" long and the tank is 30" deep. I don't believe my lighting is suffice so I will have to add or switch.
Does a deeper tank require more powerful lighting per gallon? The Liveaquaria.com catalog has coral light requirements of low, moderate, and high. If a coral that can't move is placed on a rock near the top of the tank, is it possible that that coral might get burned or over exposed by light that is too powerful?
Thanks again for the super helpful post!