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Canister Filter?

This is a discussion on Canister Filter? within the Saltwater Aquarium Equipment forums, part of the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums category; --> Yes this started as a cannister filter thread but I mentioned my algae growth and it turned into that it seems. I do not ...

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Old 01-20-2009, 07:34 PM   #11
 
Yes this started as a cannister filter thread but I mentioned my algae growth and it turned into that it seems. I do not have tests for alk, cal, and phosphate. But my other tests show nothing out of the ordinary. My sandbed is 1.5 to 2 inches deep. I have 8 hermits, 4 turbo snails, and a chocolate chip starfish a sebae anemone and 2 percula clowns. My lights are brand new power compacts. Had them about a week. I have a 10g hang on back filter with carbon in it, which is changed every few weeks. I also clean the filter at that time. I feed pellets and frozen brine shrimp but make sure all the food is eaten before giving more to which there is never leftover food hanging around. The problem started after about 2 or 3 months of having the tank running and I have been battling it ever since. I even tried a phosphate reactor pad to no avail. I have a powerhead that is rated for 30 gallons. If there is anything else i left out please let me know.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:27 PM   #12
 
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Good information in that post. You have several small things that need to be changed to reduce phosphate introduction into your aquarium. Keep in mind, phosphate will test zero if it is being utilized by the algae. (Similar to ammonia and nitrite testing zero after bacteria are established.) The lack of phosphate on a test kit reading does not mean phosphate is not being introduced.

First, you should not be using a hang on filter with a filter pad. This is similar to the canister discussion. The filter pad collected organic acids. Small acids bond to the floss and are invisible to the naked eye. As water flows thru the filter pad the breakdown of the acids indirectly introduces phosphates into the system. The only solution is to clean the filter pad daily (or more). Most hobbyists simply choose not to use mechanical filtration.

Second, the activated carbon needs at least a weekly cleaning. It will quickly become biologically active if not cleaned weekly, causing similar introduction of phosphate.

Also, does your skimmer have a sponge intake or output to reduce bubbles? If so, it needs a daily cleaning for an intake or weekly cleaning for output.

The frozen brine shrimp is a phosphate pit. Cut back as much as possible, or use a brine net and rinse it under tap water prior to feeding.

Finally, and most importantly, your sand bed is a nightmare. This is a HUGE issue. Sand beds need to be extremely thin, say less than 1'', or a minimum of 3'' to 4'' deep. Anything in between becomes a detritus trap, with a complete lack of denitrification. You could solve a ton of problems by simply increasing the sand depth to a 3'' minimum level, more effectively 4''.

These topics are not discussed often, which is sad. In my experience these simple steps can be the difference in a very successful marine aquarium and a very difficult situation.

Last edited by Pasfur; 01-20-2009 at 10:29 PM..
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:58 PM   #13
 
The skimmer has what looks like a white filter after the bubbles go up the main part of the skimmer towards the collection cup, so I am guessing this would be an output sponge? I just put the skimmer in today but i am already noticing a reduction of film and bubbles on the surface of the water. Also it looks like the collection cup is filling with milky water. Is this normal on protein skimmers? this is my first one. I will add more sand to the tank to make it about 3" deep. I may not put on the cannister filter and see how well everything works without it before i put any corals or anything in the tank. Would it be possible to use it if only if i need to put a phosphate sponge or something in there or should it run with no filtration media in the cannister to add more water volume to the tank?
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Old 01-21-2009, 05:56 AM   #14
 
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I think you will find the above steps eliminate the need for a phosphate sponge. However, you could run one if the need arose. I would personally only run the sponge for 48 hours at a time. You will get different answers from different reefkeepers on this qeustion, so you have to figure out what works in your tank.

The collection cup should not fill up with milky water. You need to adjust your skimmer. You want a nice thick foam coming out of the skimmer, which eventually collapses into a paste type material. At worst, the water in the collection cup should look like very thick black coffee.

Yes, you are describing an output sponge. Clean this weekly at minimum.
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:30 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pasfur View Post
I think you will find the above steps eliminate the need for a phosphate sponge. However, you could run one if the need arose. I would personally only run the sponge for 48 hours at a time. You will get different answers from different reefkeepers on this qeustion, so you have to figure out what works in your tank.
i think a phospate reactor would work better then a sponge

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pasfur View Post
The frozen brine shrimp is a phosphate pit. Cut back as much as possible, or use a brine net and rinse it under tap water prior to feeding.
i agree however i would use RO water, you could also put it in a coffee filter to rinse

Quote:
Originally Posted by closeyetfar View Post
I have a powerhead that is rated for 30 gallons.
what does this mean? do you know how many gallons per hour it is rated? (GPH)

You NEED a calcium,magnesium and alk test kit as well as the proper chemicals to dose them with. these things should be at the proper levels because you house an anemone which needs a reef enviroment.
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:43 AM   #16
 
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Agreed. Agreed. & Agreed.
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:07 PM   #17
 
Im so confused!!!!!

wrong post ,my bad
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