Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/forum.php)
- Beginner Planted Aquarium (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/beginner-planted-aquarium/)
- - Removing algea from live plant leaves/ Good algea eating fish (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/beginner-planted-aquarium/removing-algea-live-plant-leaves-good-92711/)
Removing algea from live plant leaves/ Good algea eating fish
Hi all, so my 5.5 shrimp tank is still cycling, Nitrite is spiking now 2.0ppm, ammonia .25ppm, nitrate 5.0ppm. PH 6.8.
I'm starting to notice stringy green algae on my plant leaves. I'm wondering how to remove it? Hopefully the shrimp will eat it once the tank is cycled. I'm afraid its gonna suffocate my leaves. Suggestions?
Should I get an algae eating fish? If so what would be a good one appropriate for a 5.5 gallon. I have 6 White Cloud Mountain Minnows in there now. They don't seem to eat algae.
Nitrite and ammoia levels are toxic. Dont put any more fish in there, it will just add more food for the algae anyhow. Try buying a new toothbrush, rinse it off with tap water then gently brushing the leaves of the plant.
Wouldn't a toothbrush mutilate the leaves? I know, levels are toxic, damn! Does anything about the levels sound wrong to you at this point? It's been cycling for over a month now.
Ladayen has a good tip; use a "soft" grade toothbrush, and very gently. The algae will likely stick to the toothbrush and twirl off, rather than you actually scraping it which would damage leaves.
Reduce the light, lessen the duration if intensity is not too much (you haven't said). Algae occurs from light. As for fish, you don't have space for more fish with 6 minnows in a 5g. Shrimp and snails can help. Initially the water is not stable in a new tank and algae takes advantage. Once the tank is established this should be less of a problem.
On those numbers, nitrite can't possibly be five or the minnows would be dead. Did you mean 0.5 ppm? That is bad enough; any ammonia or nitrite above zero should require a partial water change (half the tank) when fish are present. Use a conditioner like Prime or Ultimate, both of which will detoxify ammonia and nitrite; with these you can do alternate day changes until the levels are zero.
Thank you Bryon. The light is on a timer, set for 9.5 hours a day. I reduced it to 8.5 hours. I plan on putting shrimp and snails in this tank. I'm going to remove the minnows. But as you can see, the tank is not ready for the shrimp or snails yet. :-(
I have duckweed on the surface of this tank. I'm waiting for my Hornwort to come in. Hopefully it will help diffuse the light, as the duckweed hasn't taken over my tank, like many claim.
Ok, so i just inspected my light. It's a 16" (15" light) T8 8,000K. On the light fixture it says 32 watt, but on the fluorescent tube itself, it says 14w. Aren't those suppose to match? Is this light to intense? Wow, it never ends!
A lot of fast growing plants are advantageous since they can deprive thw algae of nutrients as well. By the way, if you do end up woth snails, I would not worry about them. Some such as ramshorns are quite useful in eating algae and decaying plant parts. Trumpet snails burrow around. This is also advantageous since they help minimize anaerobic spots around the substrate.
And Lupin has given very good advice, I concur.
The fluorescent tube is stamped Aqueon. The light fixture says All Glass Aquariums Inc.
The existing tube may be fine, but when it comes time to replace it (12 months) I would get a full spectrum with a Kelvin around 6500K.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:26 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.