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-   -   Fishless cycling questions- nitrite water changes and wet/dry filter nitrate? (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/beginner-freshwater-aquarium/fishless-cycling-questions-nitrite-water-changes-83892/)

Zorse 10-17-2011 11:57 PM

Fishless cycling questions- nitrite water changes and wet/dry filter nitrate?
 
I'm in the process of fishless cycling with ammonia 29 and 180 gallons. I'm 17 days into the cycle, it took 10 days to drop 8ppm of ammonia down to 0. Both tanks can process 4ppm in 12 hours. The nitrite is extremely high in both tanks and I'm worried about it stalling. It stall if it gets too high? Should I perform water changes and how often? What do you guys do? I get conflicting information on this in searches so I would like to ask here. Also I have nitrate rising in both my tanks is that a good sign, or not necessarily since I read nitrate isn't accurate test with nitrite in the water? I use master API testing kit.

Also I have a wet/dry filter and I read that the bioballs will grow bacteria that will break down nitrate (along with nitrite and ammonia). They said that to wait to add fish until all the nitrate in the tank goes away on it's own. It's a freshwater tank. Is this true? Do I really have to wait to add fish or will it grow more once the fish are in there? I have fish waiting to go in there as soon as possible after the nitrite cycles I wasn't wanting to wait for another thing to cycle but if it'll be best I'll wait.

I'd really appreciate any answers or suggestions, this is my first time doing fishless cycling.

1077 10-18-2011 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorse (Post 865674)
I'm in the process of fishless cycling with ammonia 29 and 180 gallons. I'm 17 days into the cycle, it took 10 days to drop 8ppm of ammonia down to 0. Both tanks can process 4ppm in 12 hours. The nitrite is extremely high in both tanks and I'm worried about it stalling. It stall if it gets too high? Should I perform water changes and how often? What do you guys do? I get conflicting information on this in searches so I would like to ask here. Also I have nitrate rising in both my tanks is that a good sign, or not necessarily since I read nitrate isn't accurate test with nitrite in the water? I use master API testing kit.

Also I have a wet/dry filter and I read that the bioballs will grow bacteria that will break down nitrate (along with nitrite and ammonia). They said that to wait to add fish until all the nitrate in the tank goes away on it's own. It's a freshwater tank. Is this true? Do I really have to wait to add fish or will it grow more once the fish are in there? I have fish waiting to go in there as soon as possible after the nitrite cycles I wasn't wanting to wait for another thing to cycle but if it'll be best I'll wait.

I'd really appreciate any answers or suggestions, this is my first time doing fishless cycling.


Most who stall ,or prolong cycling are adding too much liquid ammonia after nitrites appear.
Nitrites in my expierience, occur around the two week mark and at this time,, one can reduce the amount of ammonia by one half, and measure nitrites every couple day's until both ammonia and nitrites read zero for four or five consecutive day's after twelve to fourteen hours.
Once the ammonia and nitrites read zero as mentioned,,then you can perform a large water change just before adding a few fish to reduce nitrAtes.
Would not try to stock the tank too quickly with too many fish no matter what other's claim is possible with fishless method.
If I had accesss to healthy filter material from disease free existing aquarium,i would certainly use it to help speed the process in new tank.

AbbeysDad 10-18-2011 08:37 AM

> I would do a water change to reduce the nitrites and nitrates some as excessively high amounts may prolong bacteria colony development. As 1077 says, reducing ammonia would be a good thing.

> a wet/dry sump filter, once established, is a highly oxygenated environment and will process ammonia and nitrites very well, but not address nitrates. Nitrates would require either anaerobic bacteria and/or algae/plant life to process.This is why in more recent years, refugiums with sand beds and algae/plants have been added to sumps. Without a refugium, like most of us, you would indirectly control nitrates with weekly water changes....which by the way, is the only way to keep fresh water fresh (the solution to pollution is dilution).
The WWC is the only way that we remove dissolved organics (crud), unwated chemicals in solution, etc., along with nitrates.
Sometimes I think efforts and dollars spent on ever more elaborate filtering systems, might better be saved while we keep it simple and replace polluted water with fresh water! What we really need is simple, automated water changes. (I realize this doesn't quite work for our salt water friends)

Zorse 10-18-2011 03:45 PM

Thanks guys! I test my water today and 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite in 180 gallon! :D That dropped fast! So now I'll add 4pmm each day to see if it can process it ammonia and nitrite well for 4 days. (That isn't too much ammonia to add right?) 1077 I agree with you I hear you can add full fish stock once fishless cycling is done but I don't trust it that well so I'll just add my small groups of fish each week and keep an eye on the water parameters.

My 29 gallon still high nitrite but I did cut ammonia dose once the nitrite appeared so I don't think I've been adding too much. I did seed both tanks with used filter media but seeded the 29 with much less than I did the 180 so I think that's why 29 is still cycling. In a couple days if it's still high I'll do a water change.

I thought that wet/dry filter didn't cycle nitrate! Good thing I didn't listen to the site I read lol I would've been waiting forever. Will do weekly water change as usual then, no live plants with my silver dollars.


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