Sump for Freshwater Display
I'm thinking of adding a 10g sump in the cabinet below my 29g FW display. I was wondering if it would be a good idea seeing that it isn't necessary for a freshwater tanks as it is for a marine tank.
If i were to do it, what should i do with my Aquaclear 70? Can i hang it on the sump?
What about baffles? Do i need them if I have no plan of making compartments. I don't really care about directing flow so I dont want baffles. Too much of a hassle to make them and install them anyways.
If i were to go with a sump, I'll be drilling a 1.5" hole at the back of my 29g and install a bulkhead. Then do some PVC plumbing to the sump where the drain will be in one end of the 10g sump and the return pump will be at the other end. The pump will return through 3/4" pvc pipe to opposite sides of the 29g.
If you are not going to have some kind of baffle, how do you plan on "forcing" the water through w/e filtration media you plan on adding to the sump? If you just want to hang a filter on the sump, then why do you need the sump in the first place?
IMHO based on "quite a bit" of experience with wet/dry a filtration process, limited experience with a cannister filtration process but unfortunately none with an HOB:
I would not try to implement a wet dry filtration process for a 29G tank.
I am a "big fan of wet/dry" but
1) I believe that it is appropriate for much larger tanks
2) as it does not scale down very well.
From a review of your post several times either I am "missing something" or you are "missing something" with respect to the wet/dry filtration process.
If you have any questions please post.
Sump filtration on freshwater tanks of less than 75g-90g, is a bit of a waste of funds. As Jonesy said, sump filtration does not seem to lend itself favorably to "scaling down" to smaller size tanks. If you are concerned with adequate filtration, I would use multiple types, canister filters, power filters, HOB filters, snf/or undergravel filters(using reverse flow powerheads). Many hobbiests do not like ugf's, but I use them in a majority of my display tanks with power heads as well as running a reverse flow operation.
Reverse flow pulls "dirty" water from the tank thru a "billi" type foam sponge filter, down the lift tubes, and back up thru the gravel substrate. The water is oxygenated and the water flow "feeds" your bacteria bed while preventing "sustrate compaction". Other filtration will need to be used in conjunction with rf filtration, but gravel "sweeps" will be done less often due to the water flow not allowing waste to become imbedded in the gravel.
well sumps do make water changes much easier, hides equipment, adds extra water volume, dilutes the water more since it moving around a lot, and also makes it easier to convert to saltwater
You are absolutely correct! and those as well as several others are the reasons why I am such a "wet/dry fan".
IMHO they just do not "scale very well" to a 29G tank.
With respect to water changes I believe that I just had an idea although I have not seen it set forth in the literature.
Also this is based on my limited experience with an Eheim cannister filter.
Why "not get into the return line from the filter to the tank";
install a TEE with tubing which is typically curled up but which can be uncurled to extend to a WC bucket;
install a valve above the TEE in the tubing to the tank and
install a valve in the WC tubing.
These valves and tees are very inexpensive and with their "barbed connectors" are fairly easy to install*
I know that this sounds "crazy" but I believe that if I had a cannister filter or filters I believe that I would "try it".
I do not know how else to say this but:
I am concerned that I have not said the correct words in order that a full understanding of the hydraulics of a wet/dry filtration system has been accomplished and
I would feel bad if you spent the time and money attempting to retrofit your aquarium to a wet/dry and it "did not work".
Your best bet is to just get a canister filter. A large one actually adds a gallon or two to the tank and can be hidden in a cabinet. It will be just as hidden as a sump but easier than drilling holes and setting up water pumps and suck. If you want to hide the heater you can also buy in-line heaters that connect to the input tup of the canister filter instead of going inside the tank. Sumps are great in that they add more water volume to the tank but a 10 gallon sump isnt that big and a 29 gallon tank isn;t really worth the work.
jones: This is how I do water changes when I'm not vacuuming the tank. I have an outlet in the down spout which is T'd just before one of the filters. I hook up a long 1/2" tube and let gravity do the rest. Works very well.
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