Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/)
-   Tropical Fish Diseases (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/)
-   -   fin rot? (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/fin-rot-72198/)

bottleitup 06-07-2011 07:26 AM

fin rot?
 
my fish--all of them--had ich less than a week ago.
i have two ten gallon aquariums,
one has three platys, a betta, and an adf.
the other has(had) six goldfish.
three of my goldfish have died so far, my betta and platys are on the brink of it.
i've noticed fin rot in both tanks.
i'm treating the fin rot with melafix.
i think it's either killing my fish, or i need to change the water.
can i change during the treatment? it states on the bottle to change 25% of the water after 7 days and then treat for three more days.
i don't have a PH test kit.
i took out all gravel so i can see where my platy fry are.

i'm tripping out, what do i do?
to change the water or not to change?

Beaches 06-08-2011 03:41 AM

Hi...sorry you lost the goldies!

Were the tanks cycled? How long have the tanks been established.

Do you have test kits for ammonia, nitrite & nitrate? If so, could you post the readings. Taking out all of the gravel may have removed a lot of the nitrifying bacteria.

What type of goldfish are they? Did you add them all at the same time? 6 goldfish is really pushing the limits in that size tank and will end up causing a lot of problems for the fish. I would advise reading up on the space/tank size requirements for the goldfish you have. It can vary, but most sources recommend either 20-30 gallons at least just for one goldfish and an additional 10 gallons for each one after that.

What type of filtration do you have?
What temperature do you have the tanks at?
What was your water change/tank maintenance schedule?

Did you do a 25% partial water change BEFORE starting treatment? It usually states that also. Why do you think it is killing them...how are they acting? I don't see any problem with doing a partial water change during treatments, you can redose the tank with the meds. but only add the amount of meds. in proportion to the volume of water you have taken out/replaced. Most meds. start to loose their effectiveness after 24-48 hrs (depending on the med.)

If the fin rot is advanced, Melafix alone may not help very much, it is good to aid with healing and prevent infection before it sets in, but you may need a stronger anti-fungal, anit-bacterial med. Aquarium salt is often used in treating fin rot. There are may mult all-purpose meds. available.

Do you still have the ADF? I don't know much about them, but have read that they can be intolerant to many of the medications and you need to get one that is safe to use with them.

Has the Ich completely gone and how bad is the fin rot? Without knowing these things and water parameters, I would be hesitant to recommend a specific course of action. All that may be needed is to improve their water quality and diet, which is the best place to start. Feeding them anti-bacterial fish food can also help or garlic enriched fish food.

Freddy 06-08-2011 12:06 PM

Melafix will usually cure fin rot, but if you let it go too long, nothing will cure it...
Are the tanks cycled? That's the main thing first. If the tanks aren't cycled then it's normal to have fish get diseases and die. Even if the tank is cycled, ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate levels that are too high will kill fish.
Please test the water (pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, etc.) and post the results. If you do not have a test kit, many pet stores (make sure they sell live fish) will test your water for free if you bring in a sample. Since you don't have a test kit, consider buying one. Truthfully, I don't use mine much, but if something ever goes wrong it's nice to have to be able to quickly tell what is wrong and how I can fix it. Don't get a strip test kit, they're unreliable, inaccurate, and you get less tests than a liquid test kit will give you. API makes good quality liquid test kits.

Good luck :-)

redchigh 06-08-2011 12:11 PM

If the fish are at the surface, you can add an airstone. Fin rot is usually brought on by poor water quality. Can you get a photo?

bottleitup 06-08-2011 04:26 PM

my tanks have been set up for 3 months, they were fully cycled before i added any fish.
i had four common goldies, one fantail, and a shubukin.
my ADF and all of the tropical fish are still alive, i've found some dead fry, but that's it.
i don't have a PH kit, because when i went to buy one, i found the medicine to be more important.
i've already changed most of the water in both tanks, it was so cloudy, i couldn't stand it.
there's one common goldfish left, and she's on death's door. i'm thinking about euthanizing her.
before the ich and fin rot took course, i changed the water regularly.
i'm almost certain that the ich is gone.
the fin rot is another story.

Beaches 06-08-2011 08:09 PM

As previously asked, could you please state what your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) are? These are different kits to the PH kits. If you don't know them, please just say so (we know not to keep asking them LOL). The readings could have a definite bearing on the issue at hand. Knowing the PH is important, as it can help you determine, if in the case of an ammonia spike whether the ammonia is more or less toxic. The higher the PH, the more toxic ammonia can be. As Freddy already mentioned, your LFS will test all these parameters for you, for free usually.

When you mentioned you changed the water regularly before problems began, how much/how often were you changing? What type of filtration do you have?

bottleitup 06-09-2011 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beaches (Post 695998)
As previously asked, could you please state what your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) are? These are different kits to the PH kits. If you don't know them, please just say so (we know not to keep asking them LOL). The readings could have a definite bearing on the issue at hand. Knowing the PH is important, as it can help you determine, if in the case of an ammonia spike whether the ammonia is more or less toxic. The higher the PH, the more toxic ammonia can be. As Freddy already mentioned, your LFS will test all these parameters for you, for free usually.

When you mentioned you changed the water regularly before problems began, how much/how often were you changing? What type of filtration do you have?

i can't get the water parameters. i don't have them.
i'd change 50% of the water every three days, then a total water change every week in the goldy tank. they were messy buggers. i lost my final common one this morning.
i'd change 50% of the water in the tropical tank every week. usually i could go up to a week and a half without having to do a total water change.
i changed the water so often because i know that the water parameters are very important, and i can't test it. they were perfectly fine until we introduced two shubukins to the goldie tank. one was just there temporarily, three days at most. he died about a week after being moved to the other tank. i was told his fins looked nipped on and he was staying at the bottom of the tank. the other one is still alive. her fins look nipped on, but she's active. since i use the same net for both tanks, i'd introduced it to the tropical tank.

Beaches 06-09-2011 09:12 PM

Sorry you lost another goldie and thanks for stated about the parameters. I would urge you to get the kits ASAP, or are you close to a LFS or know someone/friend nearby that has them? It is imperative to know what they are, otherwise you are just working blind. They are just as important as the meds., were, probably more so.

I guess I am a bit confused, how do you know the tanks were cycled to begin with? or is not have the test kits a recent thing.

Anyway...the whole thing was probably brought on by stress/water quality/overstocking. How long did you treat the Ich for and what with? If it wasn't treated for long enough, there is still a good chance of it returning. If you haven't seen any spots for going on 2 weeks, that is good.

Are you still using the Melafix? If the fin rot isn't bad....Are you sure it is fin rot and not just nipped fins? I personally would stop meds. for now and just see how things go with maintaining proper water quality. How is the other tank with the tropical fish & ADF doing?

You do have filters on the tanks right? sorry, only asking because you still haven't mentioned it.


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