- Tropical Fish Diseases (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/)
- - Ich in new tank (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/ich-new-tank-71547/)
Ich in new tank
Hey guys, just ran into some bad luck. In my new 26 gallon tank, I noticed on one of my sterbai corys the unmistakable ich cysts. It was only a few, but still plenty enough for me to start treatment immediately, and he was flashing against the sand. Prior to this post, I started to raise the temperature of my tank to 80 degrees, and plan to increase it to 82. Here are my specs
Tank size: 26 gallons
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: .25 ppm
Nitrate: 20-30 ppm
Inhabitants: 9 neon tetras, 4 sterbai corydoras, 3 panda corydoras, 3 3 line corys.
Plants: Anubias, banana plants, anacharis, java fern, water wisteria
Current Temp: 79 degrees
Aeration/filtration: 2 sponge filters
Decoration: 3 pieces of drift wood
Water changes: Used to be every few days, will up to every day, 5 gallon change each, with prime as my conditioner.
Feeding schedule: once a day
Plan of attack: Increase temp, use quIck cure.
Now the thing that I'm worried about is the tank is in its last stages of cycling, and it is a heavily planted tank, much too many plants to really transfer *plus I don't want to spread the infection*. Is quIck cure safe for the plants? Also, I read up that the pandas and 3 line corys do NOT do well in temps higher than 78. Should I risk it by slowly increasing the temperature throughout the day, say, 1-2 degrees every 2 hours until I hit the desired temp? I also do not want to use the salt method due to its effects on live plants. I do have some snails in there, but considering that they're pouch snails *easy replacement* and MTS *super cheap where I get them*, I don't really care if I lose them or not. My main concern is the temperature tolerances of my corys, and my plants.
I found this on the internet - never used the stuff, but since someone hasn't answered, and I can imagine you want to start treatment ASAP, perhaps this will help. I just cut/pasted it from a search using quickcure and plants. Sounds like it's not completely harmless for plants. Good luck: Also, because you still have nitrites, you probably should be doing frequent (daily) water changes anyways.
I've used Quick Cure for ich at full strength with a variety of plants. I believe the best advice to be frequent water changes when using QC, like:
Full dose first day, 30% water change and full dose second day... Third day nothing. Fourth day, another 30% water change and full dose. Then wait two days and start using QC at half strength.
I don't believe that causing a huge build up of poison in your tank helps to kill the ich. Actually, I think this weakens the fishes, and leaves them more prone to further infection by the ich. Rather, you must catch the ich while it is vulnerable - like the day after you can't see it on your fish anymore, when it's free-floating and immature. Quick Cure combines formalin and malachite green which are both EXTREMELY toxic. Do not use them if there is a pregnant woman in the house!!! They cause cancer in adults and deformaties in infants. Wash yourself very thoroughly after any exposure, even if you haven't been sticking your hands in the water. These are serious poisons, and should not be used casually.
I also use a half dose of Quick Cure when I introduce new fish, and haven't had to deal with ich since.
Remember: (VERY IMPORTANT!) Remove your charcoal for the duration of your treatment. Every time you do a water change, add twice the regural amount of cycle to your tank. Monitor your nitrite levels obsessively! Once your fish are okay, then worry about your plants.
In my experience, the plants will recover just fine, but more slowly than the fish.
I've also read that you should decrease the dose for cories... Just extend the time period instead.
(Instead of 20 ml per day for a week, use 10ml per day for two weeks. Just an example.)
Hey guys, thanks for the replies. Right now I'm raising the temp slowly up to 85; essentially 1-2 degrees a day. right now its at 82, and I'll be continuing doing half doses of the quick cure. Crossing fingers that the fish can survive the temp increase. So far no real changes, the cysts are still there, so we'll see how things go. Wish me luck!
Temp is up to 83 degrees, put in 1 6" air stone and one 2 inch air stone for increased aeration of the water. Ok, so I looked closely at the infected fish *I shall name him Patient Zero* and it seems as if his slime coat is much thicker, and maybe coming off? The cysts seem to be dangling from strands of slimes, while some are on his armored plates. Of course now I'm paranoid as the "cysts" could be tiny granules of sand that are stuck, but then again I am not sure as the sand that I use does not have any white in it, and if it does its a bit larger. Also, Patient Zero is not flashing *maybe once or twice a day*, does not have clamped fins, is not lethargic, eating normally, and isn't really displaying anything else. Could I mis-diagnosed and its really just the slime coat coming off due to the stress of acclimating to the new tank and taking some bits of sand and/or small particles? If so, should I finish the ick treatment just to make sure, or should I stop the treatment? I can't get a picture of Patient Zero as he likes to dart behind the drift wood and chill. I also did notice that the cysts are not as pronounced in white color as the pictures of ick that I have seen. Ugh, paranoia might have gotten the better of me....
The "cysts" seem more angular than circular under super close inspection....I do believe paranoia did win this round...so should I put in activated carbon and do water changes to remove the quick cure meds? Or should I just finish off the treatment cycle just in case?
Ok, just some parameters update. Ammonia at 0 ppm, nitrite at .25 ppm, and nitrate at 10-20 ppm. However, the big difference was in the pH, as it dropped from 7.8 to 7.4. I believe this is due to the C02 injector I started to use in the tank.
Blah, sorry for the machine gun posts, but I'm going to finish treatment of the ick as the spots are just too close to just let it go.
It is a bummer having diseases in a tank. I'd keep with what you are doing. You need to be concerned about a .25 of nitrites. Fish seem to get stressed by even the smallest bit of nitrites. Keep up with small water changes. Best of luck.
Some glimmer of hope, my tank FINISHED CYCLING! Woohoo! So now I can focus solely on the ick. Temp is at 85 right now, so I think I reached the magic number of ick not being able to reproduce. pH did drop down to 6.6 due to the C02 injector I got, but other than that the cory cats don't seem too stressed, and the neons aren't showing signs of stress as well. *crosses thumbs*
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