button polyps not opening
I have a nice size orange and green button polyp frag and it is about half open. I have 2 34 inch t5 bulbs my water measurements are ph 8.2 calcium 380 carbon hardness 160 phosphate .25 nitrate 0 ammonia 0 and nitrite 0. The polyp is on the top portion of tank with a mediem flow. I also have a pipe organ coral that is doing fine. What should I do?
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Are you adding any supplements such as iodine, magnesium, calcium, etc?
Your calcium level is at the minimum, have you tried to bring this up at all? I would suggest bringing it up slowly to at least 400 - 450, which may help. Are you using any kind of phosphate remover?
What kind of filtration is on this tank? What size is the tank? Are there other animals in the tank such as fish, crabs, shrimp, etc? How long has the tank been set up? How long have the button polyps been in the tank? What are you offering for food? How often?
The more info you can provide, however trivial it may seem, the easier it will be to help you.
I am adding aquavitro calcification twice a week to raise calcium. It says it accelerated coral growth. The guy at the lfs say the salt has iodine and magnesium I have 65 gallon tank with yellow tang ( I know needs bigger tank) 2 clown a sixlined wrasses 10 red hermit crabs and 2 emeral crabs. I also use a r/o unit. The tank as been set up for 3 months button polyps have been in their for two weeks I have also been dosing the tank with oyster eggs once a week. which the guy at the lfs tood me to do for pipe organ which have been in for one week
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On to the calcium. 380 is at the lowest end of acceptable, which means that if something utilizes calcium between additions, it is going to temporarily deplete the tank of enough. A better, safer calcium reading would be 400 - 450, which then gives you a little wiggle room between additions. Are you testing this before or after you dose the tank? When you test also makes a difference, and you can use the test kit to help track fluctuations during the course of a day and a week. Unless something is sucking up a lot of calcium you should be able to bring your level up quite easily by increasing the amount of each dose by 1/4 of the original dose. If, after a wk or 2 of the increased dose you don't see an increase on your test readings, increase each dose by another 1/4. If that still doesn't bring it up (sometimes it won't), then there is indication that magnesium is low and needs to be supplemented.
Content of one mineral will play directly to the amount of another, so if one is off, eventually they all start to go off... easier to catch it and fix it right away. These fluctuations will affect how happy corals are in the tank, as well as all other inverts and even fish.
Given the amount of time the button polyps have been in the tank I wouldn't be too concerned yet that they haven't opened completely. Corals stress just as much as any other animal, but they also have more specific needs/requirements that must be tweaked to get it just right. Circulation will also be a factor, and placement in the tank can also cause issues. Too much light is just as bad as not enough. Too much circulation just as bad as not enough. Take your time and play with it until you see they are happy, don't add anymore animals until all of the current animals are thriving (to avoid new issues and to help avoid masking of issues).
If you need more help please let me know.
+1 to everything betta said, specifically the last paragraph which sums everything up..
but im wondering if the zoas were dipped before added to your tank? there are things called zoanthid eating nudibranches and zoa spiders which are pests and will cause zoas to stay closed. im not saying this is what you have, but knowing they exists is important to keeping what you have healthy. they can be very difficult to spot, the nudis will even turn the same color as the zoanthids they are eating.
your emerald crabs may also be bothering them.
please reseach anything you plan to buy completely and know your able to keep it before buying it. this will help to prepare you while your keeping whatever it is you will be keeping.
I do do a 13 gallon water change once a week and what do u mean "dipped" I. Put them in the same way I put my fish in I let the bag float for 15 mins then add a cup of tank water every 15 mins for an hour and a half and what kind of supplement for would you recomand?
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look into drip acclimating your fish and inverts.
dipping is a method of insurance thats a ratio of iodine:RO/DI water that i suggest to use on zoanthids as it will help kill some of the pests that can hitch hike in on them.
Oh well the polyps have opened but are dis colored and now the organ pipe coral is now shut
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A few points for you to consider
1. The coloration of corals (and fish alike) is going to differ depending on the lighting it is kept under, diet its receiving, and mineral content of the water. What may appear blue in a store tank may appear purple or even green in another tank... check to see what lighting it was under when you saw the color you liked out of it and be sure to mimic that lighting.
2. When 1 coral is open another may be closed. Once again, lighting comes into play, but also time of day, when they are fed/feeding, disturbances (either by you or change in conditions), water temp, circulation, and other animals in the tank. To expect all corals to be fully open at the same time is impractical and happens very seldom in any tank, nor does it happen in the wild.
3. Watch how close the corals are to each other... they can and will attack each other, which can cause one to close up, or even to die. Corals have sweeper tentacles that can stretch quite far. These tentacles are not just used for feeding but also for self defense when the coral is too near something else it isn't compatible with.
As I mentioned previously, its going to take time and a lot of tinkering to get everything just right and happy. Patience is your best friend. Trying to rush things usually tends to make it all worse. Watch, study, and pay close attention to your specific animals and what triggers the responses you desire. Does more light make it open or close? Does more circulation make one open while another closes? (that may mean shifting various things around until you find just the right spot for each) How do water changes affect them, and how long before their response changes again?
Time, time, time... and lots of patience and careful attention to details is the only way to get the desired effects that you are attempting to achieve. Also, be practical about what is possible vs what is near impossible. Things such as the color changes you mentioned... if T5 lighting is all you have and are willing to work with, then you have to accept that those are the colors you're going to get from your corals. You will not get optimal results by cutting corners.
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