Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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-   -   Strange growth on cory cat (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/strange-growth-cory-cat-68515/)

excal88 04-21-2011 03:02 AM

Strange growth on cory cat
 
Hello, I noticed a strange small growth on one of my cory cats. Its right above its eye, but it hasn't gotten bigger or smaller since I noticed it, and its been about 2 weeks or so since it had it. She's eating normally, swimming normally, and doesn't seem to have any ill affects from it. It just looks odd, a cloudy white in color, right above her eye. It almost looks like a cloudy white eye brow. Here's my info

1. 5 Gallon Tank

2. Water parameters
a. Ammonia: 0ppm
b. Nitrite: .25 ppm
c. Nitrate: 10-20 ppm
d. pH, KH and GH: Between 7.0 and 7.5, 180 KH and 120 GH
e. Test kit: API liquid test kits.

3. Temperature: 77-79 Degrees

4. FW

5. How long the aquarium has been set up: 4 weeks.

6. What fish do you have? How many are in your tank? How big are they? How long have you had them?
2 Panda Corys. A little over an inch, but under 1.5".

7. Were the fish placed under quarantine period (minus the first batch from the point wherein the tank is ready to accommodate the inhabitants)? Yes, but I put them in early before the tank could cycle completely.

8. a. 3 Fake plants
b. Gravel
c. No fancy or hollow decorations.

9. a. Filtration: Yes, marine land built in filter with biowheel and replaceable cartridges, and a 6" air stone hooked up to a top fin 40 gallon air pump *it has 2 air nozzles, one hooked up to the 5 gallon, and the second hooked up to my 12 gallon which is cycling right now*.
b. Heater: Preset submersible heater, top fin.

10. a. No set lighting exposure, if lights are on its when I'm watching them for 5-10 minutes at a time.
b. No direct sunlight exposure

11. a. Water change schedule: Daily, 10-20%
b. Volume of water changed: 10-20%
c. Well water, tap water, RO water? Tap Water
d. Water conditioner used? Prime.
e. Frequency of gravel/sand (if any) vacuumed? Once a week.

12. Foods? Sinking wafers made up of ground brine shrimp, worms, etc etc.
How often are they fed? 1 wafer a day.

13. a. Any abnormal signs/symptoms? None, acting healthy
b. Appearance of poop? Normal strands, black in color.
c. Appearance of gills? Reddish in color, not inflamed

14. a. Have you treated your fish ahead of diagnosis? No
b. What meds were used? None

Eshnon 04-21-2011 03:33 AM

Taking a guess..
 
Alright.. from the sounds of it.. your cory might have Ick... Is she scratching up against stuff? I would go to the store and buy a tablet that you drop into your tank that looks like a seltzer tablet. It creates little bubbles and stuff, then eventually will treat your cory. Ick spreads, and eventually forms redness/bloody streaks... The tablets arent expensive, and work the moment you drop them in.. may take a week or 2, but will reduce stress for your sick cory.
-I have 2 corycats of my own, and love them to death. They are such characters. I would be very sad to see 1 of them die. I personally think it's worth it to go out and get a few tablets as they do help treat and I THINK help prevent future Ick breakouts. I once saw a catfish at Petsmart that had a VERY bad case of Ick.. was very sad to see considering it was in the most later stages of the sickness and the most painful.
I hope this helps.. let me know how it works out.

excal88 04-21-2011 03:41 AM

Ick? Wouldn't it be in the form of smaller circles around the body? Right now its quite a large growth *compared to ick*. Its more of a lump than a circle than anything, kind of like a blister. M *thats her name* doesn't rub up against the gravel or plastic plants. She just swims up and down against the aquarium, but thats just normal behavior. She's not scratching up against anything, and is actually pretty darn active. She swims super fast whenever I move near the tank. Haha. And yea, these two panda corys are my babies. I made the mistake of putting them in before the tank finished cycling, so I've been doing daily water changes to keep em alive. So far its going well so far.

I've been trying to get pictures from her, but she moves around so much and the angle of the tank doesn't allow me to get a good shot of her at all >_<

Eshnon 04-21-2011 03:44 AM

Forgot
 
Considering Ick is a parasite, it first starts on one victim, burrowing into the fish and inflaming the spot at which it entered. The fish will scratch and try to get relief. Once the parasite has got its fill of blood and dead cells, it leaves the fish and goes to the bottom of the tank. Once on the bottom and divides and creates many many more parasites that set out to feast on other fish. This will spread FAST. They say that once the Ick parasite has burrowed into it's victim it wont be easy to kill.. you can only kill the parasites once it's outside of a fish. Making this a complication.. if you wait... and your other fish get sick.. you will never get rid of Ick.. instead it will keep coming back from other fish
It's a gross sickness.. really it is. The Tablets last awhile.. and to medicate it, it's recommended to medicate for 10-14 days with the first sight of Ick. !!!!For Catfish, it's recommended to reduce the dosage in half because Catfish dont have scales!!!!

Eshnon 04-21-2011 03:46 AM

?
 
Perhaps some kind of blister?

excal88 04-21-2011 03:49 AM

Maybe, but if thats the case, is there anything I can do to get rid of it? Its not affecting her at all, it just looks odd.

Eshnon 04-21-2011 03:57 AM

Diet
 
I would do weekly water tests, and continue with water changes.. however that doesnt sound like the issue.. It might be the diet. Might be some kind of Protien cyst. But you feed waffers... hmm... If it's fine.. I wouldnt worry.. however if it's something needs to be caught in early stages.. dont hesitate.. Take a picture! I know they are very evasive.. but keep trying! (I usually lure my catfish with food, hehe that way they sit in one spot so I can look at them.) Other fish I open the door at the top and close it a few times to get them to swim to the top. :P O
-If you can find a photo similar to your fish with the sickness, post it! :-)

Amethyst123 04-21-2011 04:13 AM

One of my cories (emerald green, not panda) has had recurring outbreaks of whitish patches in the same spots on her body. In my girl's case, it has been on the bottom edge of her dorsal fin, and on her back right under the dorsal fin, as well as on one cheek. The patches look to me like a fungus of some kind, but antifungal meds have never worked for me. On the other hand, antibacterials have worked - Melafix in particular.

However, before trying any kinds of medication, even a natural one like melafix, which comes from plant material, there are several other things to address.

First, cories need to be in schools of at least 4. 6 is even better, and some of the dwarf cories need a school of 10 to really thrive. My cory had the most problems with the white patches when there were only 2 cories in the tank. She has done better as I've added more cories.

Secondly, they need a bigger tank. According to AqAdvisor.com, you are overstocked even with the only the 2 panda cories, so increasing the number won't work in that tank. In addition to overstocking, my cories (all three varieties - peppered, emerald green, and albino) freak out in smaller tanks, including 10g and 14g that are planted and have big rocks and caves for hiding, even when the tank isn't overstocked. They were much more skittish in the smaller tanks, and often bashed themselves into walls trying to hide when somebody walked by. In my 47g, although there are lots more fish, they are all significantly less skittish and swim freely around no matter how much activity is near the tank, including my cat patting at the tank walls (she hasn't yet figured out that no matter how hard she tries, she's not going to catch any fish through the glass). Only the emerald greens react to her by running to the opposite side and hiding. I bring this up because a stressed fish is more susceptible to health problems of any variety.

Also, be careful with your water parameters. Your nitrite level should be at zero, not at .25. Even though it may not seem to be a significant difference, it is enough to cause stressful conditions for your fish. You might need to do bigger water changes, say 30% - 50% a day until the nitrite is staying at zero. Once the tank is completely cycled, you might do better with larger but less frequent changes than what you are doing now, because you may be stressing your fish out by changing the water so frequently. Once or twice a week should be fine, once cycled.

If you make these changes and the white stuff doesn't go away, then you may need to try meds of some kind, such as Melafix.

Edit: I actually started this post when no one had responded yet, but I'm wordy. Doesn't sound like ich to me, as that would definitely be all over, not just in one spot, and looks like salt or sugar crystals attached to the skin - sparkly when the light hits them. You said this was cloudy white, which made me think of the white patches Big Mama gets (she's the biggest fish in the tank). The swimming fast when you approach the tank might be the skittishness I was talking about with my cories. When she swims really fast when you are near, is she swimming toward or away from you? She may be trying to hide, unless she is swimming toward you and interacting with you.

excal88 04-21-2011 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amethyst123 (Post 654518)
One of my cories (emerald green, not panda) has had recurring outbreaks of whitish patches in the same spots on her body. In my girl's case, it has been on the bottom edge of her dorsal fin, and on her back right under the dorsal fin, as well as on one cheek. The patches look to me like a fungus of some kind, but antifungal meds have never worked for me. On the other hand, antibacterials have worked - Melafix in particular.

However, before trying any kinds of medication, even a natural one like melafix, which comes from plant material, there are several other things to address.

First, cories need to be in schools of at least 4. 6 is even better, and some of the dwarf cories need a school of 10 to really thrive. My cory had the most problems with the white patches when there were only 2 cories in the tank. She has done better as I've added more cories.

Secondly, they need a bigger tank. According to AqAdvisor.com, you are overstocked even with the only the 2 panda cories, so increasing the number won't work in that tank. In addition to overstocking, my cories (all three varieties - peppered, emerald green, and albino) freak out in smaller tanks, including 10g and 14g that are planted and have big rocks and caves for hiding, even when the tank isn't overstocked. They were much more skittish in the smaller tanks, and often bashed themselves into walls trying to hide when somebody walked by. In my 47g, although there are lots more fish, they are all significantly less skittish and swim freely around no matter how much activity is near the tank, including my cat patting at the tank walls (she hasn't yet figured out that no matter how hard she tries, she's not going to catch any fish through the glass). Only the emerald greens react to her by running to the opposite side and hiding. I bring this up because a stressed fish is more susceptible to health problems of any variety.

Also, be careful with your water parameters. Your nitrite level should be at zero, not at .25. Even though it may not seem to be a significant difference, it is enough to cause stressful conditions for your fish. You might need to do bigger water changes, say 30% - 50% a day until the nitrite is staying at zero. Once the tank is completely cycled, you might do better with larger but less frequent changes than what you are doing now, because you may be stressing your fish out by changing the water so frequently. Once or twice a week should be fine, once cycled.

If you make these changes and the white stuff doesn't go away, then you may need to try meds of some kind, such as Melafix.

Ah, Thanks! Yea I know my lil buggers are in a small tank right now, and I'm in the process of cycling my 12 gallon. Once my 12 gallon is good to go, I plan to move em into the bigger one and add a few more pandas to have them more comfy. Right now the 12 gallon is the biggest I can get as anything bigger will be a matter of physical space :( Thanks for the help, I think that nailed it right on the dot.

Amethyst123 04-21-2011 04:32 AM

You're welcome. I hope everything works out for them. Are you intending to have other fish with them in the 12g, or just the school of panda cories? Don't forget to quarantine any new stock before adding them to the current fish in the bigger tank. Your 5g would be perfect for this, as the fish would only need to be in there for a couple of weeks. If you use the 5g for this purpose, I'd increase by 2 at a time - they really don't do well alone, and even for a couple of weeks, 3 would be pretty crowded.

By the way, the site I mentioned, AqAdvisor.com, is a very convenient site, great to check for stocking options. You enter your tank size/type (like tall or long, hex, etc., if applicable), the type of filter you have, and the type and quantity of fish you have. They tell you whether there are problems - like needing more for a schooling fish, or fish that aren't compatible, or m:f ratio, etc., as well as best temp range, whether you have enough filtration, how often and how much water needs to be changed, and at what level (by %) you are stocked. If you aren't up to 100% stocked, you can add the fish you are thinking about, and see what they say. Very helpful.


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