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- - Help with ich, please, thanks... (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/help-ich-please-thanks-5571/)
Help with ich, please, thanks...
I read the sticky, thanks much, and noted it said to ask questions first before treating with anything.
If treating ich with salt or meds, do the permanent Aqua Chargers (that the tank was started with) need to first be removed? There is no carbon.
Another post said to use 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons to be safe but I understand some of mine are sensitive to salt. All the fish except a few are under 1" - 1.5". Fish are tetras, a pleco, guppies, loaches (first ick sign was in a clown), swordtail, barbs and cats. The 80 gal tank temp has been increased to 84F with the lights off.
I believe they were overfed which raised the ammonia & nitrite to .50, from 0 on both. So we've done two 25% water changes in 2 days so far (plan to continue doing so). It lowered both to .25 after the first change, but today both are back to .50 before what will be the 3rd water change this evening, and after raising the tank temp. Nitrates are 5.0 today (were 10).
I'm not sure how to best approach ich treatment at this point. I don't even know for sure if salt is ok given these details, and also, is there anything besides salt treatment that will not stain?
The SO says lesson taken to heart (poor fish) about quarantine and stocking a tank.
Thanks much for any insight and help with the ick.
There is a product called "Ich Guard" that I use. There are many other products on hte market that can help to alleviate the problem. Also, you should raise the temperature to 82-86 degrees Fahrenheit. I usually keep the temperature up a few days after the infestation seems to be cured. I am of the belief that ich is in all tanks, and that everyone, at one time or another, will have an outbreak. Sometimes, I think it is sold with the tank. lol Keep your temperatures up to around 78-82 degrees and you shouldn't have any problems once the infestation is under control. Ich can only go through its life cycle in a relatively narrow temperature range.
Its true, everyone gets Ich some time. I would suggest buying a commercial medication, your LFS could recommend a good one.
Also don't forget, stressed fish for one reason or another will be more susceptible to diseases such as Ich. If you have a poor or malfunctioning heater, if there is too much contention in the tank... you know any distraction... :lol: :lol: :lol:
:D Thank you for your replies and input -- it's very much appreciated. So are the words of encouragement.
Instead of waiting longer for product shipping I went ahead and treated the tank with 1 tsp salt per 5 gallons. (Carbon removed but chargers left in -- I hope that's not a mistake!) 3 little fish passed quickly before treatment could begin. The other fish are doing ok right now but I think at least the sickest ones will be lost regardless of actions. The most ich affected that I could tell were the clowns, a barb, and the little shark cats.
The normal tank temp hovers around 80 degrees but I had already raised it to 84 degrees. (Thanks.) Still doing 25% water changes daily for the ammonia & nitrite. The 400 filter on there keeps the water surface moving well normally, but I moved the jets up so that even more is aimed at the surface for more aggitation/air. Hopefully that's ok to do. I'll keep treating it this way for a minimum of 10 days or 5 days after the last sign of it.
Nobody seems to have formalin or ick guard ll locally, but I will order some online to have on hand for later. (Thanks.)
I had moved the tiny fry out to another tank just before ich was noticed. They're doing ok so far but I will treat them when they can be.
There indeed was some contention in the tank between barbs...everyone else lived peacable for the most part. I'll see what can be done to lower distractions even more. :wink:
I'm assuming when I do the water changes daily that I fist condition the water as normal, then add more salt for just the amount of new water that's being added. Is this correct?
Thanks so much,
Tropic Aurora :D
Hi Tropic Aurora, that's correct. Condition the water going back in, making sure it's at the correct temperature, and just replace the amount of salt that has been taken out.
Good luck, and keep us posted on how it goes :)
Hi, thank you.
We have completed the salt/84 degree heat tx for ich (15 days treatment & 25% daily water changes for high ammonia) but still the ammonia and nitrites only drop to .50 even after water changes, and are back up to 1 by the next day.
We increased the surface water movement with the jets the entire tx time. We vac'd about 25% of the gravel with each water change until all was vac'd, and there was a lot of waste.
There was no sign of ich for the last 6 days of tx and we are now replacing 25% water without adding salt to it, and starting to lower the temp slowly.
What are we doing wrong to still be causing the high ammonia/nitrite levels? They had been 0 before ich. But seem to be spiking faster now. Did we vacuum too much?
Will the ammonia levels drop as we eventually change out the salt water for fresh and lower the temp?
Also, it's time to rinse one of the 3 filters but will that make the problem worse?
Thank you so much for any insight.
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