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denrgb 10-19-2010 01:48 PM

I'm looking for some help plumbing my 180 built in dual overflow to my sump. I think I pretty much have it down, however, everywhere I see it shows the return starting from the middle chamber of the sump T'ing off right in the middle and then up to each overflow corner equally. I'm also running a Mag 18 in my return 1800 GPH.

Here is my problem. My sump is made to be [skimmer (16x15)]>[fuge (13x15)]>[return (7x15)]. How important is it that I have the split off from my return to the tank equal? Couldn't I put a valve in that T split to put more GPH in a side that has a longer pipe therefore equaling out? If I have to have them equal.

kitten_penang 10-20-2010 01:36 PM

look for bearwithfish he's good a diy stuff.

bearwithfish 10-20-2010 02:08 PM

if it was me it would look like this
pipe to a T leading back to skimmer (ball valve on this pipe)
above the T a short pipe to another T each branch would lead to another ball valve and then to the tank

when tuning in i would leave upper ball valves wide open and regulate flow to tank using the lower valve
once flow is good you can use the other valves to balance out the return as you see fit.. there is nothing wrong with it being heavy on one side over the other but i am a fan of balance when it can be achieved....
if you do chose to keep one side faster keep this in mind when stocking corals for those who need a bit less flow...

denrgb 10-21-2010 11:30 AM

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Thanks for the tips! Here is what I drew out so far. I figured I'd put the first T into the fuge as close to the water line as possible to help with standing water. This is draft one, feel free to laugh, correct me, and give more tips!

bearwithfish 10-21-2010 11:53 AM

oh yeah thats perfect... i had not thought of the check valves!! good thinking... perhaps this would be better placed above the T to do away with the need for the siphon kill hole commonly used to prevent flooding..

denrgb 10-21-2010 12:11 PM

Good idea on moving the check valve. As I'm not the greatest plumber, these things can get by me. I'm still going to drill the siphon hole though (just because it's already drilled lol).

I'm hoping this set up works. Going to try and get all the parts this weekend.

bearwithfish 10-21-2010 12:16 PM

sweet i must begg for pics of the build as you do it i am super excited for you ....

denrgb 10-21-2010 12:31 PM

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Thanks a ton, and yes, pics and step by steps will be taken for the build thread. This way you all can laugh at me. :D

Updated diagram. I moved a few things around on the return pipe. I HOPE I'm not missing anything or have too many valves somewhere or something. The only thing I was unsure of is to make the ball valve as the first T (like I do on the second T) or to put it next to the T on the way to the fuge. Right now I have it on the way to the fuge. I'm not really sure on how the T valve works and how I can control flow exactly yet. Still reading up on it.

bearwithfish 10-21-2010 12:36 PM

ok a T is not a ball valve just to be clear..i would drop the one below the T (closest to the pump) if you choke off there is will burn up your pump....
going up from there you have a ball where a T shold be to split the line to the two ends of the tank..
drain pipes dont need a ball valve as they can only put out what is put in (gravity is your friend here) so save a few bucks and drop those
other wise you are golden
and no is going to laugh at you .. at one point or another we all had to monkey with something to learn how its done.. this way you have less mistakes as you are getting a bit of guidance..... cannot wait until other throw in on this one...

denrgb 10-21-2010 12:52 PM

Isn't there Ts that have valves in them though? In other words, I have the valve on my second T to control flow on each side up to the tank. Just in case one has more flow than the other, or if I want to control the return flow inside the tank if its too strong.

If there isn't a T ball valve should I put ball valves on each side of my 2nd T to control the flow of each side?

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