cloudy tank help
hi every one i need help. i bought a 45g. tank 6 months ago i had over the tank filter and to power heads i cycled the tank with 6 zebra danios. after the cycle all my paramiters were great i added 2 pictus catfish and 7 tiger barbs. the tank was great for about a week then it got very cloudy. as soon as it started getting cloudy i started to do 25% water changes every week and all it did was get more cloudy eventuly all my fish died except 2 zebra danios and a very small sucker fish with i dont know what its is. i left the tank the way it was exepty doing water changed every week. after talking to some friend at work about my problem they advised me to get a canester filter wich i did i bought a rena 70 gal. canester filter. after hooking it up the cloudiness went away in 24 hours. i left the filter to cycle with the 3 remaining fish for another month untill all my levels in my tank were nitrate.10, nitrite 0, ammonia 0, and ph 7.0. at this point i bought 1 redtailed shark and 7 tiger barband a week later to day my tank is getting cloudy again its not as bad as last time this time the cloudiness is white not green i did a 25% water change yester day and its still cloudy and all my levels are still the same . what am i doing wrong and should i do daily water changes and if i do what % a day. all my fish are very happy right now in my tank swimming around and playing with each other so i know there happy i just want i clear and clean tank any help would be great. thanks
Can you describe your tank; is it planted - lots of plants or a couple. How do you clean your filters, do you use tap water or aquarium water to clean them. What tests do you do on your tank - PH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, hardness GH and KH.
The bloom sounds like a tank re-cycling; if you don't mind throwing some money at it, around $25; I'd get some Seachem Stability and apply it as required, you only need the smallest bottle. With the remaining money, purchase some horwort plants, these guys are ammonia feeders. They aren't the prettiest plant around, heck you don't even need to plant them, just leave them in your tank (floating if you prefer) for at least 4 to 6 weeks.
I'm guessing by your description of events, your tank is either plantless or thinly planted.
If you can find some Seachem Purigen, it will absorb some of the nasties and polish your water; this stuff is cheap. Add it in your canister filter. It can be recycled from 5 to 8 times before it is exhausted.
If you have future problems with a green bloom in your tank, you might want to consider a UV sterilizer. Here's a long and sometimes technical article but well worth reading:
i have about 6 plastic plants i dont want real plants till i get every thing under controle and my levels are good they are nitrite 0 nitrate .10 ammonia 0 ph 7.0 . iv had my new filter for olnly about 5 weeks so i havnt cleaned it yet.
Its the real plants that will help you, in fact if you get enough they will help seed your tank with good bacteria from the tanks they were in, and they will absorb the bad stuff that is giving you problems. If you want a planted tank, now is the time to get started; plants can play a very big part in cycling a tank.
Here's a nice explanation for your - read the "silent cycling" part:
i will get some plants on monday after i research wich ones i want but in the mean time how often should i do a water and how much. again my levels are at nitrate .10 /nitrite 0/ ammonia o /ph 7.0 and my tank has a white cloudiness to it
just did a 10% waterchange
As this is an established tank, not new, with no live plants (yet;-)), you should be doing partial water changes of 40-50% each week. In planted tanks, provided the fish load is in balance, you can get away with smaller/fewer water changes, but without plants you have no other means of keeping the water clean except changing it. Filters move water around but it is the same water, and while they assist in biological filtration and may do chemical filtration if you use carbon or whatever, they still do not perform the same as plants. The pwc is essential in non-planted tanks.
The above is during normal times; daily pwc are often good as when a tank is cycling, but not always. Your cloudiness doesn't seem related to water issues if your test results are accurate, so it is possibly simply bacterial and not an issue for the fish. Bacterial cloudiness will be worsened by water changes, so I would not not do more than the normal weekly pwc and let the cloudiness clear on its own as I suspect it will. I have seen similar.
And I second rsn, the plants will benefit your fish in several ways.
If you only had three zebra danios and some sort of algae eater, there are only going to be enough bacteria in the tank to handle their bioload. Adding a red tailed shark and seven tiger barbs all at once is adding around 200% more fish than were already in the tank. There's no way the bacteria are going to be able to multiply fast enough to handle the new fish in the tank so you get an ammonia spike and the bacteria bloom (i.e. milky water) that comes with it. The ammonia could have gone away by the time you tested the water but I suspect that's probably the culprit. Just keep an eye on those parameters and do water changes if you get readings for ammonia and/or nitrite, do the weekly water changes Byron suggested once the tank is cycled and once everything is stable you can begin stocking the tank again but do this slowly to avoid another mini-cycle.
thanks for all the advice its been great. when i came home from work today the cloudiness was almost gone so i think the cycle is starting to kick in and all my test are still the same. i will be adding real plants this week after i do some reserch on them. if anyone has any advice for the plants it would be much apriciated. one other thing my redtailed shark is still small about 2in. and he dosnt seem to get to the food as quikly as all the other fish do should i be worried hes not eating enouf food.
What sort of light is over this tank? If fluorescent, how many tubes and are they full length (end to end)? And what type of tubes now (this is printed at one end of the tube, give us all the info)? Light is the single most important aspect of planted tanks, and I can offer some suggestions when I know the light situation.
Sinking tablet or pellet food for bottom fish should provide food for the shark. He will find it on the bottom.
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