Three quick questions. :)
Firstly, thanks for reading my topic and if you help, thanks for helping! :) (since this would be buried underneath the pics I include)
My 10g tank got over run by algae. It seemed that once I took my 3 balloon mollies out, and only kept my betta there, the algae infestation started. Could this be because it did not produce enough CO2 and nitrogenous waste (i thinkt hats the correct term) to supply the plants? I had rotala indica, hornwort, and java moss in there.
Will a 5g tank with play sand gravel, 10 watt full spectrum flourescent bulb, with only rotala indica inside it do ok? I am going to raise my babies in there, or will it become overrun with algae like the above tank?)
Is it ok to have some algae on older leaves (except on my saggitaria only the first couple new leaves in the crown have no algae... these plants are growing very slow and not doing too well so idk that may be why)? As such:
You're probably right- you took the fish out, which lowered the CO2 and "ferts" in the water... Leaving the same amount of light, which the algae thanked you for. You can lower the lights or add more fish.
Your other question, A tank with only rotala indica would be fine. Just expect to maintain a healthy biological bacteria colony.
The species of plant is not that important- its the total qty of living plants. And a tight cluster of rotala would be great for fry. :)
Third question on the older leaves, you probably need to lower the light or dose with a fert. The algae is out-competing the plants for resources, and algae can kill plants if they coat the leaves (although it only happens if there's WAY too much either co2, ferts, or in your case, light.)
Come on, you've been around a while. Haven't you read byron's stickies on planted tanks? Balance is key, if the balance becomes erm, unbalanced, then algae takes over.
Thanks for the help. :)
The yellowish leaves in the photos indicates lackof essential nutrients. Light is being provided, but not sufficient nutrients so the plants are not thriving and algae is increasing. Algae is natural, I have it to varying degrees in my tanks, but one comon factor in all ofthem is that it occurs most on leaves closest to the light source.
Austin, are you adding any fertilizer to this/these tanks?
I think they look much yellower on these photos than they actually are. But, yes, I use Aqueon Aquarium plant food. I do 15 ml the day after water change, then 15 more ml the day after that (30 ml = 30 gallons). I do weekly water changes.
I am looking for root tabs to buy, but I cannot find any at the store. (the saggitarius, and lots of plants in my tank feed off their roots a lot, correct?) I plan to order from pet solutions soon would you mind taking a look at some root tabs (or what I believe to be root tabs) that I found there?
In the order section it says " FLOURISH 10 TABLET"
If you think Flourish (I believe you recommend this one usually?) would be better than the one I currently have (I can show you pics of the back about the nutrients) I can add the flourish liquid too...
I also saw another root tab type thing but I cannot find it now.
For substrate fertilizer, the Flourish tabs are good. I have been using Nutrafin's Plant-Gro sticks for the past year and they have worked very well on my swords. They are less expensive; the sticks last close to a year, whereas Flourish tabs say they need replacing every 1-3 months. There are 10 nutrients in the sticks compared to 15 in Flourish tabs, but if you are also using liquid this is less critical, and again you have harder water (minerals are in the water). Either will do the job, but if you were to use only substrate without liquid I would use Flourish tabs.
I've shown you the ingredients on another thread a while ago, you'll remember when I show you the image.
I went through the aqueon very quickly, so may buy the flourish.
Also, the flourish root tabs are all I see on that website, and I can't find them in any pet stores really. It says 3-4 months for the tablets and I get 2 doses with 10 I think...
do you order online? If you do can you link me to a good place with the nutrafin tabs? :) If shipping is cheap for the root tabs, I may buy them. If it's standard (9.99 for under 100$ on pet solutions I think) I won't buy for 10$ shipping lol. But if its a few dollars maybe. :)
I always buy from a fish store, I have a couple here that carry what I need, though not some different products (like the Aqueon) so I can't try new things.
From your amounts earlier, the Aqueon takes more per dose than the Flourish, as I mentioned previously, a 1/2 tsp does 30g.
I didn't respond on the algae previously. I think you should definitely reduce the light, it is heavier than I would like. I have both hair and brush algae in my 90g and a bit less in my 115g, but not to the levels you show. Last year they started to look like this, and I just reduced the light duration by one hour from 12 hours to 11 hours, and it stopped the increase. Can't remember how much intensity you have, but if it is around 1 watt per gallon that is fine, but go to a shorter duration daily. I would say 8 hours is about the minimum in most cases, so as long as you are not below that it will be fine. Continue the nutrients to feed the plants so they can use the light, but reduce the light as clearly the plants are not using it and algae now is taking advantage.
Thank you byron. I will try to reduce the light. I'm ashamed to admit I do not currently have it on a timer. The only mechanical timers at walmart that are cheap every time have not worked. I'm not stupid and I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right, but none have worked. I'll have to splurge on a digital one soon. Or look elsewhere.
I usually turn the lights on a few hours after I wake up, and then I turn them off approx 10 hours after I turn them on (I remember when I turn them on each day). Of course sometimes I make mistakes and run it a bit longer.
Shall I aim for 9 hours daily?
I only have 20 watts and it is a T-12 bulb.
Also, reguardless of the algae, my saggitaria is growing painfully slow. Can you think of any reasons? Maybe hard water?
Also, I was thinking of maybe buying an oto catfish to help clean tiny bits of algae. (:
Edit: btw, im going to for sure get the flourish I think. It says 100 ml treats up to 5000 gallons? That would put it at 25,000 gallons for a 500 ml bottle... I don't know what the "up to" means, but that would last me an eternity. The aqueon only lasted me 1-2 months per bottle.
Few fish will handle the type of algae you have. I see hair algae and brush algae, the same as what I have in my 90g (and less in the 115g) and nothing eats these. I have read that the true Siamese Algae Eater (not the more common Chinese AE) will eat brush algae, and there is something else I can't remember...but these grow large and I do not recommend fish solely to eat algae. A better solution is to reduce/prevent it. And the light will do that.
I would go down to 9 hours, and with a timer so it is consistent. I went to the digital ones last July, a couple of them had problems but they seem to be working fine now. I used the manual cheap ones previously, they worked for years but suddenly gave out; I thought the digital might last better, and I like the fact that if the power goes out the "timer" keeps going on the internal battery so even though the lights are out, when power is restored the timer does not need to be reset, it continues with the correct time and settings.
How old is the tube? T12 should probably be replaced after 12 months. T8 will last up to three years many say, I am experimenting with these myself to see. Some even say use them till they give out, but less intense light (and intensity decreases dramatically as they burn) can itself promote algae, also as the colour temperature (spectrum) fades with use the more "yellow" light will encourage algae. But 12 months for your T12 then replace, with T8 if you can (manufacturers are moving to these as they are said to be more efficient).
If it is Sagittaria subulata, the most common species, it is good in hard (even brackish) water. It is probably the light/nutrient balance. Solving the algae issue should also improve plant growth, as the issues are certainly related.
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