fish dying daily help please!!
i have a 75 gal tank that has been in use for several years. it has been moved from house to house 2 different times. i have had it now about a year and a half with no problems. except i could not get plants to grow. i found this site about 6 weeks ago and found out why. i had 2 penguin 350 hob filters on the tank which i found out was wrong. so i found a used fluval 204 and started using. ran it for about 2 weeks and got phenomenal growth compared to what i had. so i added more plants (only had a couple) like vaills and swords. and started a 2 liter home built co2 reactor. i now know some things i have done over the next few weeks were not right or proper but i am still learning. now with the co2 i was watching the ph and it did drop down to 6.8/ 6.6 over 2 weeks, faster in the second week. so back off the co2 using a control valve. plants were good and the fish look good, except one ,my gourami. he looked a little beat up raised scales missing scales but i didn't think too much of it cause there is a red tailed shark and another gourami that would pick on him, he swam fine ate fine so i watched him for a few days. by friday he died with a cherry barb. i took a sample of water to the pet store to test. only ph a little low he said i think it was 6.8. the next weekend i added more fish and plants. 10 cherry barbs and 8 guppys and some red ludwiga. that was about 2 weeks ago, since then i have barbs, guppys, and my betta. my betta started with a small white area on his fin in the morning by night it was on his mouth and half of one side of his body. pet store said it looked like ph or ammonia burn. my ph had come back to a 7.2. pet store said pull the co2 and let the tank settle so i did that night (friday). last night i lost 4 more fish. all along i have had the water checked by the same pet store once a week and do a water change about 10 to 20 percent weekly. i tested the water this morning my self with new api test kits results are : ph 7.6, gh 200 ppm, kh 80 ppm, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10. also thursday night i added a sponge filter and change out atinic lights for 6700k bulbs. fish that are left are 8 neon tetras 10black neons 3albino cherry barbs 6red cherry barbs a pleco a red tail shark clown loach a gourami and some snails. please help i don't want to lose anymore fish.
Not ammonia poisoning I'm very sure its safe to say that with your dyi co2, which I know you had the best of intentions with that, you stressed your fish out till death, to cause such pH swings like you posted you have had mass amounts co2 pumped in there which will lower your pH & KH till it totally bottoms out and that's plain deadly to fish. Not to mention they need oxygen in the water from plants not a bunch co2.
You're on the right path there keep that co2 out of your tanks; continue a regular weekly water exchange, feed normal and they will hopfully regain their health there.
Look at my tanks under my name here the tap called 'Aquariums" non of my tanks get's co2 no ferts; only fish (for co2 supply) water and good light (daylights @ 6500 kelvin) - That works for me :-)
I second Angel079. Leave the CO2 off, period. Let the tank stabilize.
Changing the light will help the plants, the actinic is not good light for plants. Good move there.
What is the pH and hardness of your tap water? I ask because it would help toward stability to do a larger partial water change weekly, but only if the values between tap and tank are reasonably similar or further stress may occur, and fish stress (from any number of things) is a major cause of disease and weakness.
in the tap water ph is the same gh is higher kh is lower dont know if that makes sence
i have just done a water change (40-50%). you say weekly.? how should i expect this to go on? at what point should the tank be stable? like after 4 weeks and i still have fish dying would something else be wrong?
Most people (nearly all) perform water changes each week for the life of their aquariums. Water changes remove waste and supply minerals needed by fish, and plants and they also help to maintain a stable pH. Your water changes, may need to be more frequent than once a week and I say this ,,because it is possible that when you switched filters,you threw away the beneficial bacteria needed in all aqauriums unless you took some of the filter material from the old filters and placed it in the canister filter.
This beneficial bacteria deals with the ammonia and nitrites that are toxic to fishes and until the new filter has developed a colony of this benefical bacteria,, your tank may see increased ammonia and nitrite levels . Would use my new test kit to measure these each day for the next few weeks. If levels of ammonia and or nitrites read above .25, I would perform a water change using a dechlorinator for the new water before I added the new water to the tank. Would make sure new water is close to same temp as that in the aquarium.
Once your aquarium water test's zero for ammonia and nitrites each day for several days in a row,, then once weekly water changes will be all that is needed.
Another reason to keep an eye on ammonia and nitrite levels is at lower pH levels,the ammonia being produced by the fish on daily basis is less toxic than it is at ph levels you are now recording. IF the new filter does not yet have a sufficient bacteria colony to handle the ammonia and nitrites,then they could begin to increase and as mentioned,,anything over .25 would in my view be call for a water change.
Your tank will settle down now that you are using tapwater close to same pH as the tank and once it has settled ,the fish will be under way less stress.
I have heard numerous people report problems with DIY Co2 because it is difficult and dangerous to try and regulate the ppm of Co2 being dumped into the tank. Is not safe to try and reduce the flow on DIY units in my opinion ,for the fermentation process can be unpredictable, and restricting the flow could lead to rather nast y mess (Bottle exploding).
I would strive once again to get some stability in the aquarium ,and then possibly explore the addition of Co2 if that is your wish with perhaps Equipment that is a little more stable with regards to amounts being released. There are some members here who have excellent examples of planted aquariums without Co2 injection and this may be something you might consider.
Nothing wrong with Co2 ,but one should have a fair working knowledge in my view,, of how it works and how it affects water chemistry which in turn affects the fishes we keep.
i have been testing at least once a day sence friday. getting the same results. the filter has been on now for 6 to 8 weeks. shouldnt the bacteria have built up by now? is it possible there is something eles going on? would it hurt to use some malifix just incase?
[quote=hammerhead;348773]i have been testing at least once a day sence friday. getting the same results. the filter has been on now for 6 to 8 weeks. shouldnt the bacteria have built up by now? is it possible there is something eles going on? would it hurt to use some malifix just incase?[/quot
If the filter has been running on the tank with fish for six to eight weeks then yes , there should be a bacteria colony present.
I would isolate the fish that I intended to medicate rather than treat the whole tank of fish. I fear some people appreciate the capabilities of melafix much more than I do.
It prolly wouldn't hurt anything but I would not be too disappointed if results were less than I expected.
In any event,, Few medications will work if water quality isn't maintained so keeping things stable with regular maint and water changes will give the fish the best chance with,or without medications.
I would also accept that the addition of eighteen fish without quarantine time could allow fish that were already sick when purchased,,to introduce unwanted bacterial pathogens or parasites to my aquarium.
I am thinking along the lines however of Byron ,and Angel . The fluctuating pH was the primary reason for the fishes to react poorly. You may still lose some fish, but once the tank has stabilized,,problems should be fewer.
Sometimes fish die. For myself.. I am more inclined to remove sick fish from my tanks rather than spend the money on medicating the one or two fish ,but that's just me.
most of the fish have dyed over night. i dont get to see any signs of illness. what would a clamped fin look like?
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:37 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.