After Medication: will the water ever turn clear?
I finished a treament fungus infection in a molly in my lovely (well, it was nicer) 56 gallon tank. The fish is all better now..
It turned my water quite a green tinge.
This leads actually to a couple of questions: I have been doing water changes every couple of days (about 5 gallons at a time). I put the bio-zorb media back into my Rena Filstar2 filter. Will this water ever clear or has it permanently dyed my glass green.
Also, if one fish gets a fungus infection do you have to treat the whole tank? Could I put the sick fish in a quarantine/hospital tank? From my past experience with other pets (cats and dogs for example) with certain diseases/parasites if you treat one you really need to treat them all.
How does one sterilize an aquarium tank anyway, especially a cheap plastic one.
Have you put carbon into your filter?
What medication did you use? Can you list the ingredients for me?
Some medications will stain the water, others have the ability to stain the glass, plastic, silicone seals, and anything else they touch. This is the reason its important to medicate in a quarantine tank whenever possible.
As for medicating all fish in the tank... that truly depends on what the problem is, what fish are in the tank, and what medication you are using. There is no one medication that is safe for all fish species... so when adding meds to a tank its important to be sure that all species of fish in the tank can handle the intended medication and all of the active ingredients in it.
If you can offer answers to the questions I asked maybe I can help you to get things cleared up.
As for staining in a plexiglass tank... typically once they are stained there is no way to remove the color from the plastic. To safely sterilize any fish tank, bleach water is the only safe way to do this. 1/4 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water is the solution to mix. Wash the tank down with the bleach water, rinse until all odor of bleach is gone, and then let air dry for at least 48 - 2 hrs. Once dry, rinse again. If you still detect any odor of bleach, rinse thoroughly again and let air dry again. If you have he ability to let it sit in the sun during drying, even better.
Hope this helps.
I was going to mention the med, but forgot. It was from API pharmaceuticals, their anti-fungus cure.
Obviously learned the staining thing the hard way. I tend to think it is just the water that is tinted: it still shows faint green on the water changes.
This is a glass aquarium. If the silicon stains, it won't be as bad. I used a pyrex glass to mix it into the tank and it seems to show clear, so I think this is just the water.
As for the carbon, this is a bag of carbon (I cannot put carbon directly into it). It is called bio-zorb. The med did not bother any of the other fish, I did read the directions, but didn't mention anything other than scaleless fish: which are not in this tank.
I have learned the hard way about using a quarantine tank.
I think this is just going to take time.
How long since you stopped the medication? It will take a bit of time and you may want to add a mesh bag with carbon to your filter. You can buy a small container of activated carbon (the pellets absorb faster but get used up faster) and pour some into a nylon stocking, knot the end and drop it into an empty section of your canister. This will help speed up the process of removing the medication/color.
I did a search of the bio-zorb media you mentioned, and while there is some carbon in there, I would not expect that to work as quickly as straight activated carbon. It is also not uncommon to have to change out the carbon after a few days and replace it with fresh to absorb everything. Carbon works similar to a sponge, as it absorbs the pollutants from the water... but like a sponge it can get too full, which means it will not absorb anymore.
So fresh carbon along with continued small water changes should resolve your problem within a few days.
Sounds like a plan. I think the only way I could add carbon to the filter is 'make my own bag' and stack it with the other media. Don't see why that wouldn't work. It may well take time.
Thanks for the help.
You are correct about making your own pouch. That is why I suggested the nylon stocking/pantyhose. If you pour the carbon into the toe of the stocking, then twist real good to form a neck, cut about 6 inches from the carbon line in the stocking and tie a knot in the twisted end, it should work just fine for you. The stocking will allow the water to pass through without the worry of loose carbon in the filter... and when you're done with it, just toss it in the trash. I have done this many times to save money on filter cartridges just to get carbon into a filter. The Rena Filstar offers plenty of room to do this. If you add more than one stocking with carbon the water should clear that much faster.
Best of luck to you... if you need more help, please just let me know.
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