Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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-   -   Ich! Helppp (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/ich-helppp-36590/)

n1zjd 02-04-2010 08:23 AM

Ich! Helppp
 
I cant even believe this. In all the years I have had freshwater aquariums Ive never once dealt with a disease of anykind. Until now. My 10 gallon community tank is infected and I just noticed it today. Im about to make a trip to a LFS to buy something to treat this. Ive got 2 corydoras, I think 9 neon tetras. 2 black phantom tetras and a betta in the tank. They all get along great normally but just yesterday I noticed the betta was being aggressive. And now today I noticed the white spots on their skin. Some are being affected worse that others, specifically the phantom tetra's.

As far as I can tell the corys are free from any white spots. All the rest have the spots however. With the species I have in my tank would salt be an effective treatment? I know the store also has something I believe called Ich Out but I have heard mixed reviews. Please help me save my fish!

Edit: Sorry forgot to mention I do a 10-15% partial water change at least once a week, alot of the time twice a week. The water is crystal clear. Tank has been fully cycled for months. If theres more info needed I would be glad to provide it. Im awfully upset over this. Ive never had anything but happy healthy fish before!

LisaC144 02-04-2010 08:45 AM

Dial up the temp to about 82-84 degrees. As much as your fish can handle. Some people use salt. I used stuff called "RidIch" with huge success and no fish losses. I have tetras as well so I dosed at half strength for scaleless fish. I'm not sure how your cories or betta will handle the treatment if you decide to medicate. Might want to google that or wait for someone to come along with another suggestion. I think the cories wil lbe very sensitive to any meds. If you decide to medicate, be sure to medicate for 5 days AFTER the last sign of ich is gone. Ich can only be killed in the free swimming stage, when you cannnot see it anymore. A simple google search can give you the specifics on the process.

n1zjd 02-04-2010 10:03 AM

Ok, Ive just turned up my heater. I just returned from my LFS with aquarium salt and Biospheres Maracide. I dont particularly want to try either one until I know whether or not its going to hurt fish.

LisaC144 02-04-2010 10:11 AM

Cories are extremely intolerant of aquarium salt and I'm not familiar with Maracide. I wish I could be of more help to you. Be sure to dial up the temperature SLOWLY, and in the meantime hopefully someone will come along that can give you pointers for the Maracide. Good luck!

n1zjd 02-04-2010 10:39 AM

Like I said, the corys dont seem to be affected.... but somehow I doubt that when the others are. I could quarantine them to another tank and treat the others and just keep an eye on the corys

Byron 02-04-2010 12:19 PM

Ich is in the tank, which means it could be on all the fish whether or not you see it. Normally it first attacks the gills, which is why you don't see spots. If the fish do any flashing in the gill/head region, it is probably because the ich is in the gills.

There is absolutely no benefit to removing infected fish from an aquarium when ich is the disease. While you could be lucky enough to not have the other fish affected, the stress of trying to net a fish will certainly increase that fish's problem, and probably cause the other fish to become stressed. It is my opinion that ich only attacks stressed fish, and given time I could find you many knowledgeable aquarists who agree with this.

Remedies: I use Aquari-Sol when ich is severe enough to justify medications. This is a copper-based medication, as most ich remedies are, but it has significantly less of a detrimental effect on sensitive fish than any others I have used. And it is far less detrimental than salt on such fish. Corydoras and all the characins (tetras, pencilfish, hatchets) and fish like the delicate gourami species are highly sensitive to chemicals, salt and medications. I have used Aquari-Sol in planted tanks with more than a hundred fish and not lost one.

Prevention: Regular aquarium maintenance (weekly partial water changes of 50%) combined with minimal stress in the aquarium can prevent ich even when introduced on a new fish. I speak from experience. If the fish in the aquarium are healthy and not under stress, their immune systems will usually fight this off. Stress is caused by water quality issues, the wrong mix of fish (behaviours, compatibility), inappropriate water parameters, and so forth. Avoiding this will significantly reduce the chance of ich.

Byron.

n1zjd 02-04-2010 12:55 PM

About the only thing that I could see wrong would be not large enough water changes. That and the fact that these are all new fish in the aquarium with the exception of the beta. Ive done water changes the same way for the last 5+ years though, so all I can say is the new fish I bought were infected. As far as stress, I can only say its from being shipped to me LFS from somewhere else and then transported here. I would love to blame this on myself, Ive just NEVER had ich before and nothing has changed. I will increase the amount of my water changes. Other than that Im going to slowly raise the temperature of the water up to around 84-85F and hope for the best right now I guess. Thanks for the info folks

Byron 02-04-2010 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n1zjd (Post 319196)
About the only thing that I could see wrong would be not large enough water changes. That and the fact that these are all new fish in the aquarium with the exception of the beta. Ive done water changes the same way for the last 5+ years though, so all I can say is the new fish I bought were infected. As far as stress, I can only say its from being shipped to me LFS from somewhere else and then transported here. I would love to blame this on myself, Ive just NEVER had ich before and nothing has changed. I will increase the amount of my water changes. Other than that Im going to slowly raise the temperature of the water up to around 84-85F and hope for the best right now I guess. Thanks for the info folks

I think that is a good plan under the circumstances. And I agree, the stress on the new fish brought it. I introduced ich on a cory back in late November; no sign of it when he went in the 115g, but a week later he had several spots on the sides and dorsal. I left things alone, for once following my own advice. The spots disappeared in about 4 days, nothing else came down with it, although a couple other fish did the flashing so I knew ich was in there. Now, two months later, no sign of flashing (that stopped after another week or two), no spots, no ich. Your regular pwc and good healthy environment will as I said strengthen the fishes' immune systems naturally. B.

n1zjd 02-05-2010 02:52 PM

Ive got the temp at about 83 now after slowly bringing it up over the last 24 hours. No one seems to mind it too bad with the exception of the corys, they arent very active at all like they normally are. Also one of my phantom tetras has been MIA all day, there is a decoration in the tank that has a nice little hiding spot in it so I assume he is in there. He didnt just disappear lol Is 83 ok do I need to raise it a bit still? I feel bad enough as it is....

Byron 02-06-2010 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n1zjd (Post 319791)
Ive got the temp at about 83 now after slowly bringing it up over the last 24 hours. No one seems to mind it too bad with the exception of the corys, they arent very active at all like they normally are. Also one of my phantom tetras has been MIA all day, there is a decoration in the tank that has a nice little hiding spot in it so I assume he is in there. He didnt just disappear lol Is 83 ok do I need to raise it a bit still? I feel bad enough as it is....

Personally, I never raise the temp for ich. As mentioned previously, I just let it work its way out. If the fish are free of stress they will fight it off, even if they have it. And fish that "prefer" a temp of say 78F will be stressed at 83F, so this is compounding the problem.

And corys are sensitive to high temperatures. Most do not like it above 79F, with a few exceptions like Sterbai which is shy they are good corys for discus. I have had corys die when the temp got to 85F (heater malfunctioned overnight). I would bring the temp back to normal and wait it out.

Byron.


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