Breeding Corydoras Paleatus (Peppered Corydoras)
NOTE: I made this years ago on another forum that doesn't exist anymore, and thought I would share it here.
Breeding Corydoras Paleatus (Peppered Corydoras)
Corydoras: Cory = helmeted; doras = leathery skin, (helmeted Doras) cuirass.
Paleatus: With dappled markings.
Keeping C.paleatus is much like many other members of this genus, purchase at least 3 to 6 individuals, as they do like their own company. They will also feel more secure in a planted aquarium with a few hiding places where they can rest up when needed. They are a good addition to a community tank containing the usually small to medium sized fish such as Betta Splendens, Rasboras and livebearers.
C.paleatus are absentee parents, once they breed, they do not care for the young, and will be just as happy to eat them (or the fallen eggs) as any of the other inhabitants in the tank will. Depending on the amount of cover you have provided; the amount and types of tank mates, and your own attention to the tank, you may find that you wake up one day to see eggs on the glass! There are a few options to look at once this occurs, you can leave the eggs in the tank, and hope for the best, or you can remove the eggs to another tank with a sponge filter. I have found it easiest to remove the eggs with a razor, and suck them up with a gravel vacuum, then get out the eye dropper and collect them. I have tried both methods, and found that in my 10 gallon, that a few fry have survived.
The best bet if you are serious about breeding them is to keep the parents in a tank of their own, as you will not have to worry about losing the eggs to others that love their taste. I personally suggest that once you have eggs, you remove them to their own tank. This is itself can be tricky as the eggs will need to harden before you move them; this is usually a few hours after they’ve been laid (at the earliest).
C.paleatus usually breed after a good storm, what happens it that the temperature of the surrounding area cools off, this gets insects active as it cools the air and the water will also begin to cool very slightly. Once the rain comes, the much colder rain water mixes with the warmer body of water, bringing the water temperature down a couple degrees. Thus your best bet to simulate this cycle, is to start out by feeding them some high protein foods, such as bloodworm in the morning (or even for a day or two prior), then do a 25% water change later in the day, making sure that the water your adding is at least 2-4 degrees cooler than the tank water, then feeding them the same thing again that night. The high protein will be your substitute for the insects that usually fall into the water, and are eaten, and the water change will simulate the rain. Some suggest that the absolute best would be to do the water change and feeding before a real storm comes. I personally have had no trouble starting the breeding cycle without a storm as it is currently winter here in Canada, and the rains stopped months ago.
You don’t need to rush out and buy a new aquarium to house your eggs either (at least not right away). A simple $3 Rubbermaid bin from Wal-Mart will suffice. To be on the safe side, you can purchase a food safe container; I purchased a frosted white file folder container, and have had no trouble with it at all. There’s very little you need to purchase to have this up and running in no time. To have this “incubator” running, you will need a heater (preferably a submergible), and a sponge filter. That’s it! Keep the temperature of the water at 78F-80F, and do at least a 25% PWC (Partial Water Change) daily. I recently preformed an experiment on changing the water less frequently (50% every 4 days), and I have found that it seriously stunts their growth, and there is a far higher mortality rate amoung the fry.
Your eggs will hatch about 3 days after being laid, and for the next 2-3 days, your new fry will feed off their yolk sacs. Now you will need to start feeding them daily. If you do not feed them daily, they will die. Stick to stuff that is small enough for them to fit in their little mouths (I feed Rotifers with great success.). I have also found purely by accident, that the fry can survive off the little critters that live in hair algae. So if you can get a hold of some hair algae from one of your tanks, toss it in. You don’t need a lot of it, and it will also provide cover for your fry. As they get bigger, you can start feeding larger foods, such as baby brine shrimp (BBS). For at least a week, or more during the transition over to BBS, mix the two foods together. Many fish won’t accept new foods readily, and the last thing you want is to have your fry die because they refuse the BBS, or they're still too small to eat it.
I have some videos @ www.livevideo.com/Spanishearl if you would like to see visually
great post thank you !!!!!!!!!!
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