Clownfish White Swollen Spot.
 

I have 30 gallon Tank from last 5 mnths. 2 weeks back i added i clown fish and 1 damsel. Both of them are doing good but I am seeing one little swollen creamish white spot in front of th gill of my clown fish and one at the middle of the body though not swollen.
What are these swollen white spots in front of the gills of Clown Fish ?:roll:
(they are bit swollen in clown fish and certainly not like ich)

Is there any way to get closer, clearer photos of the infected fish? Those pics are not clear enough or close enough to diagnose this accurately.

Also, can you please include water params including ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and calcium? And spg/salinity? Water temp?

Do you have a quarantine tank set up?

The more info you can supply the faster I can help you... but most important is the pics...

Thanks bettababy.

Okay i will try to post close pics. tmrw. Though it is very difficult to take close pics, i tried with these pics. I will try tonight. (i was using 12 megapixel Sony digital camera bowwoed from my friend, i still have it for a couple of days). Clownfish is now getting a second one white cotton like swollen on its body though smaller.

Here are the test results done on 20/01/2010 :

Water Replaced 15 % after 17 days. Test done after replacement of water.
1. Salinity : 1.023
2. Ammonia : 0 ppm.
2.Nitrates : 15 ppm. (My Protein Skimmer was not working. My Airstone leaked so replaced it after 3days.)
3. Ph : 7.9 with Tetra Test Kit & 8.3 with Sera Test Kit (Newly Purchased). ?????? why so much difference which one should i use next time ??
4. Alkalinity : 9 dkh
5. Calcium : 420 ppm.

Yes i have a quarantine tank 11.5 gallons.

For the record, 15ppm is not a bad Nitrate reading. The protein skimmer will help to reduce the rate at which nitrate increases, allowing the live rock and sand bed to attempt to serve as efficiently as possible, but even still many systems will have some nitrate accumulation. You are doing fine. No worries on this nitrate level.

These numbers fit perfectly. Again, nice job. Everything is moving with a "balance". You are doing an adequate job of buffering and supplementation, combined with partial water changes. When you see alkalinity dip below 10dkh and calcium approaching the lower end of the scale, such as now, then it is time to add your additives. Again, nice job. You have come a long way with this system.

I will let BettaBaby elaborate on the infection.

I am still going to need some photos for proper ID of the medical issue, but I can contribute a bit more in the mean time.
Try moving the infected fish to the quarantine tank before taking the photos. The smaller tank will make the close up photos much easier to obtain, and this will prevent the other fish from becoming infected (hopefully, since they have been exposed now), plus it will be much safer and easier to treat with medications, which is very possibly going to be needed if this is bacterial or fungal in nature.

The other things I'd like to contribute are about the water testing. First and foremost, always do water testing before doing a water change, or at least 48 - 72 hrs after if you hope to get an accurate reading. If you test before and then again after you will see the changes in the results. The before reading is what the fish have been living in, which may be contributing to a problem and after the water change those levels are altered/reduced, so you miss an important warning sign and very important information needed for a diagnosis of a medical condition. I see the testing was done on the 20th. Today is the 28th. Could you please test again before doing another water change and post those new results?

As for the test kits, Sera is top of the line in accuracy (and price). Any chance you get to use Sera kits is a great thing and I would call the Sera kits much more accurate than any other except a digital meter. I say this after having worked with many different types of test kits over the years and having tested them at various times against digital meters.

I will be watching for the new photos.

Thanks for the reply. Great info...
Okay i will take him to Quarantine tank tonight. (QT Lights very low just a 30 watt bulb)
Okay water test before water change.
Okay i will try to use only Sera Test Kits in future.
Here are the pics i have tried yesterday with Sony Zoom Optical Lens.
Hope it helps...:roll:

Dawn... looks like lymphocystis. What do you think?

Nope, looks fungal. I'll be back shortly with a treatment plan. I will need to know the water params in the QT tank, same as the others.. ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and calcium.
The amount of light in the QT tank should not be an issue, as the fish are not light dependent the way inverts/corals are.
It would also be a good idea to keep a close eye on the other fish to be sure none of them develops the same symptoms.

I'll be back soon.

I'm sitting here staring at these photos... and I need to be sure. Is this growth fuzzy or does it more resemble cottage cheese? It is really hard to determine via photos.

Thanks.

Test results of display tank done yesterday :
Salinity : 1.023 (Resun Hydrometer)(China Make)
Ammonia : 0.5 ppm (may be glass anmone shrimp died) (Prodac)
Nitrite : No Kit.
Nitrate : 10 ppm (Prodac)
Ph : 8.5 ppm (Sera)
Alkalinity : 9 dkh (Prodac)
Calcium : 420 ppm (Prodac)

I have seen one same type of spot in my electric blue damsel.

Will post QT results soon.

The white thing is cotton like swollen.

Do u need a video in google or youtube.