I added 30lbs aragonite
I added 20lbs of premium pre-cured live rock (selected pieces with lots of coralline)
Here are my questions:
- What should I look for over the next days/week?
- When should I look to add my CUC?
- When and how often should I test?
I broke some rules, and am wondering if I will learn to regret it?
For instance, in speaking with LFS, they said tap water at this point is fine, and the only risk is algae growth? I did this because to get RO/DI water and fill 29 gallon worth would be a pain...thoughts?
I think you are fine. It would have been ideal to start with RO, but this isn't going to be the end all of success for you. Just be careful about this stuff. Cutting corners in a marine tank can be a serious mistake.
At this point monitor for ammonia and nitrite. You may not see any readings at all, depending on the quality of the live rock you purchased and how long it had been at the LFS.
Within a couple of weeks your diatom bloom will begin. At this point add a small CUC, and begin testing for alkalinity and calcium, adding buffers and calcium supplement as needed.
The light cycle is not relevant until you get corals. It is more for your personal viewing pleasure.
I think you are fine. It would have been ideal to start with RO, but this isn't going to be the end all of success for you. Just be careful about this stuff. Cutting corners in a marine tank can be a serious mistake.
At this point monitor for ammonia and nitrite. You may not see any readings at all, depending on the quality of the live rock you purchased and how long it had been at the LFS.
Within a couple of weeks your diatom bloom will begin. At this point add a small CUC, and begin testing for alkalinity and calcium, adding buffers and calcium supplement as needed.
The light cycle is not relevant until you get corals. It is more for your personal viewing pleasure.
Thanks. I have seen the advice you give others in the past. I think it is awesome that you are so passionate about something to enable others to be successful due to that passion. In other words thanks for being awesome!!!
They said the live rock has been there about 4 months (not sure how true...)
It was out of water for about 1hr 30 mins.
So if I get this advice you gave me, I should wait for some algae (diatoms...are they the same?) to form before adding a CUC.
The LFS told me come back in about a week to add a CUC and 1 clown or something...too early?
So far, I am not pleased. I read the instructions thoroughly and cannot get an accurate reading. Also, the digital thermometer is not working. I will be trying to figure it out today otherwise it is going back.
I know I have to be patient and let things settle....but man it can be frustrating. I know the beauty will make it rewarding though. I cant wait to get some nice pics up here for everyone.
Very nice. I like the aquascapping! I know the picture is cloudy, but I don't see any power heads. Be sure to add at least one, and preferably 2 as soon as possible. Water circulation is critical to helping prevent problem algae and cyno outbreaks.
As of right now only the stock pump for water flow. My LFS (and I have quite a few reputable nearby which is odd for Buffalo, NY) suggested that I purchase a Koralia 2, it was around$35. I couldnt get it because I just spent $192 on live rock and heater.
BTW - Did they screw me? Since I purchased, I see many who buy base rock with maybe 10-20% live rock, where as I purchased 100% live rock!!!!
When should I "expect" diatom blooms, and microfuana growth?
Well if you are in the US and paid 192 bucks for 20 pounds of live rock then my vote is yes you got screwed. If you are in Canada or Australia then it sounds about right(assuming both locations sell at the same average). Thats what 8.99 a pound plus tax? Not overly so, just seems high to me for some reason. Expensive rock here is 7.99 or so, normal is 4.99 - 6.99 depending on the LFS.
It takes time to look totally natural, but within 3 months or so, in my experience, you can't tell it from purchased live rock. For all practical purposes, it is live. By the way, that is coraline algae growth you are seeing.
Wow that is an amazing picture - look at that corraline.
So, maybe this will help me rest assured - Since I bought ALL premium live rock, is it safe to say my tank will be cycled within 1 month rather than 3? From your message it also seems that base rock + live rock will have better long term effects?
I am just going to be pissed (and let them know) if most of the corraline will die off over the next month to the point where it is really no more beneficial than 90/10 base:live rock ratio.
So, maybe this will help me rest assured - Since I bought ALL premium live rock, is it safe to say my tank will be cycled within 1 month rather than 3? From your message it also seems that base rock + live rock will have better long term effects?
I am just going to be pissed (and let them know) if most of the corraline will die off over the next month to the point where it is really no more beneficial than 90/10 base:live rock ratio.
This isn't really what I was trying to communicate. I was trying to say that over the long run, after a few months, it doesn't matter if you use 100% live rock or a mix of both. Either way, you will get the same effect. One is not better than the other. It is the QUALITY of the rock that matters, not if the rock is live or not at the time of purchase. You want porous rock that can easily seed with bacteria and microfauna.
If you want that coraline to thrive, then alkalinity and calcium tests will be your best friend!
Well,
This much is for sure, those who maintain an active and healthy saltwater aquarium are scientists.
So scientists, I propose this question:
For the 29Gallon Biocube currently with stock pump:
- What Protein Skimmer would be ideal, and is a protein skimmer a must have (or even highly recommended) in a tank of this size.
CamryDS is working on a 29 biocube thread with an extensive amount of information specifically related to the protein skimmer options. This is a very specific question that applies only to the BC29, so I would look at his thread, or perhaps he can elaborate on the information provided by BettaBaby. (Her husband is somewhat of an expert on the biocubes, as a sales rep for marineland)
I have re-aquascaped...well actually the wife did. You will see this in the 2nd Picture. She watched all 4 of my revisions, and it was funny to watch her because she was so scared to put her hands in the tank hahaha. nonetheless, to see an outsider's point of view for a few times helped her. She did a good job building off of my orignal ideas and failed attempts to construct it...
I would like a few people to look at the following pictures and give me some thoughts:
1st and 3rd: SHow some white hair like looking growth. Also, you can see that rocks have sand on them. I feel like the sand is impossible to prevent from being on live rock, but also remeber previous posts indicating its not good...is this normal?
4th and 5th: You can see the live rock looks "rusty" - Is this diatom growth? I always understood this to be an overnight things and NO WAY to miss it...but I would quite classify the pictures being "live rock absolutely covered in in".
Any advice one can offer is greatly appreciated, and since Pasfur has been the main one aiding me in my venture...thanks in adavance Pasfur!
A small dusting of sand on the live rock will be hard to prevent. You are fine at this point.
I don't think that is a diatom. The key is looking at the sand, because it is solid white. The diatom will cover both sand and rock. I think you just have some interesting growth on the live rock right now.
It is possible, but unusual, to not have a diatom bloom. If the rock was very mature and carefully transported, then you may have to watch for other signs of tank maturity. Coraline algae growth would be one indicator, as would watching for a prolific supply of copepods and amphipods.
Its been a few weeks since updating - Everything is coming across nicely. For those who are new and feel so lost, comfort comes with time, and patience is key.
Below are some pictures of final aquascape and some life.
- I currently have:
2 Clowns
6 hermits (3 Blue legged, 3 Red Reef Hermits)
1 Astrea Snail
1 Margherita Snail
2 Nassarius Snails
2 Peppermint Shrimp
I am thinking a need for a few more snails to eat the hair algae growing on glass and back panel....Thoughts?
Some may think I moved kind of fast, there may be truth to that. I did purchase ALL premium live rock, which showed signs of being fully cured...thoughts on this would be appreciated as well?
You know, you moved a little fast in the traditional sense, but the tank looks nice. Every tank behaves a little bit differently, and purchasing the high quality live rock made a huge difference in the time frame you have had to deal with. I think you've done a nice job.
I would like to see some coraline algae begin to spread soon. Are you on top of the alkalinity and calcium levels?
You know, you moved a little fast in the traditional sense, but the tank looks nice. Every tank behaves a little bit differently, and purchasing the high quality live rock made a huge difference in the time frame you have had to deal with. I think you've done a nice job.
I would like to see some coraline algae begin to spread soon. Are you on top of the alkalinity and calcium levels?
NO! How do I measure? my API test kit is labaled as "Marine", and I believe I came across a "Reef Master" test kit from API in the past...I assume that would measure the alkalinity/Calcium?
What should I really keep in mind for Coralline growth, what suggestions (or resources to be studied) do you recommend?
Coraline growth is a good indicator of the stability of a marine environment. As it takes hold it makes it difficult for other algae types to to spread. Coraline grows best in an environment that has proper alkalinity and calcium levels, which is no surprise because calcium is the leading buffering ions in saltwater and exists in a perfect ratio with all the other buffering ions. Testing for alkalinity and calcium together allows you to observe the trends, and get a "leading indicator" as to the overall stability of the environment, long before actual problems begin to occur. More on this here: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...calcium-testing-important-every-marine-33079/
I keep my alkalinity between 8 and 12 dkh. I keep Calcium at 400 to 460 ppm. I use Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH as an alkalinity buffer and Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Chloride as a calcium supplement. This are the 2 test I do every week, and I consider them far more important than my other tests. In fact, my success with saltwater systems really began with the purchase of an alkalinity test kit and buffer.
For the record, many hobbyists, including Wake and others here at TFk, use the B Ionic 2 part calcium and alkalinity additive. It is also very reliable and easy to use.
Pasfur - I just realized you are in "Recovery Mode" - I hope you are feeling better and all is going well.
I guess on the upside - you are able to sit around and look at your masterpieces all day
Do you have any familiarity with "Red Sea Test Labs Master Reef Lab" - It seems like a nice price point, and tests for lots of things...if not that, what do you recommend for testing.
I currently have the API Marine test kit only.
Also, from the tests I assume it would be expected to be low, and thusly need to dose.
You use Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH as an alkalinity buffer and Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Chloride as a calcium supplement.
Others use the B Ionic 2 part calcium and alkalinity additive.
Are there pros and cons of each - Time, cost, your method/products are better quality?
I have the Red Sea Marine Lab and the API Reef Master test kits. I like the API kits MUCH better. The results are easier to read IMO. I also have the BIonic 2 part but I havent needed to use them yet. My tank is on week 3 of the cycle right now so Im still just waiting patiently.
I used the Red Sea kits for years, but am in the process of a complete switch to API. The API kits are easier to use and read. You have to buy Calcium and Alkalinity individually, they generally don't come in the kits. There is a school of thought that says these kits are only needed on reef tanks, which is ridiculous in my opinion. I think this originates from the LFS trying to convince the average Joe that saltwater isn't much different than freshwater.
As far as product, you could make an argument that BIonic is the best. I use the Kent products because I am comfortable with them after 10 years or longer using them. The BIonic product is really about the same thing, with one part being Calcium Chloride and the other part being carbonate and bicarbonate buffers.
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