Water level spikes in my tank? High levels of Ammonia
I found brown slime in my filter? can that cause all the water levels to go up? I have no fish but i do have two plants in my tank, I think it may be a root that got into the sponge?
My filter doesn't have carbon pad, should I get noodles? do I need carbon pad? ( I ask the staff and they said that i don't need one with the filter I have) My filter is 101f Maxi Aqua one and it's second hand.
Should i buy snail? could it help the water levels?
All the water levels went high even ammonia, I done 50% change of water and brought ammonia fixer. (Our water supplies has organic matter due to the recent work in our area)
Should I be worried that my fake plant is fading colour? should i remove it? can that also contribute to high water levels.
is this a new set up?
Sudden Change in PH and Alkalinity
I am so lost on this one. I set my 55 up in October using Cycle and my well water which tested good for PH and Alkalinity my tank has been fine until 2 weeks ago I lost 18 fish in 24 hours so I did a 20% water change and thought the rest would be ok well they are not. They are all at the top of the tank and slowly dying. I tested my well water and the PH and Alkalinity dropped so much it wont show on the guide of the water test kit. I don't understand what could have happened. I noticed that 1 of the 6 live plants in my tank was thinning so I pulled it out 4 days ago today I went and bought 30 gallons of Drinking Water from Wal-Mart and did a 27 gallon water change the drinking water tested good for PH and Alkalinity I added more Cycle Amquel and Netural Regulator for the PH all the fish are still at the top and there is no change in their behavior I have never had this problem before and would love some input. Thanks in advance:-(:-?
If you don't do sufficient waterchanges your ph will crash, then when you add new alkaline water, your water chemistry will change and kill fish. Ammonia has two forms -ammonia is toxic to fish and Ammonium is relatively harmless
As water sits in your tank it becomes depleted of minerals and ph falls below 7. Ammonia converts to ammonium and continues to build. Then when you add fresh water ph rises back up over 7, the ammonium converts back to ammonia and kills fish.
Do you do regular water changes?
I have to be honest I did slack on my water change for about a month but what I don't understand is why my well water changed so drastically the water changes I did do were fine before the one I did a week ago.I did a water test on my well water in Janurary which is the last time I did a water change and the PH was at 7.0 that is where I'm confused it's kind of hard to do water changes now if I have to buy water every time now. Also the ammonia level never changed it has been 0 this whole time and my nitrates is 10. So I guess I just have to keep up with my water changes and buy my water form now on. Thank you for your help.
Ammonia at 0.0ppm (nitrite, too, I assume), nitrate at 10ppm and 7.0pH? I wish my parameters were that good. Why would you want to be buying water?
Skylight has explained the ammonia spike from pH rise very well. Yet I'm not entirely convinced that is your whole problem. How are you oxygenating your tank? If you know your ammonia was 0.0ppm after the water change, lack of O2 might also cause those symptoms.
Also we usually don't recommend pH modifiers. It confuses the issue and can lead to pH swings which a re not good.
The test results of my tap water were from 2 months ago now the tap water is PH 5.6 Ammonia 0.0 Nitrate 10 Nitrite 0.0 that is where I'm confused. The water change I did last week was 27 gallons of drinking water which I bought and the Ph was 7.0 before I put it in the tank once it was in the tank I waited 12 hours and did another water test on the tank and my PH was still 5.6 and the Alkalinity is bad as well I can't seem to figure out what to do to fix the problem and maybe save the 7 fish I have left
Are you saying the both the bottled water and your tapwater wind up being 5.6pH?
Unfortunately you keep saying the alkalinity is either good or bad without giving any actual numbers. As there is a direct relationship between alkalinity and pH as alkalinity falls so will the pH. It is the alkalinity you need to get ‘under control’. Adjust this value to the correct levels and your pH will follow (a bit simplistic but not a bad rule of thumb). Remember, the nitrogen cycle in a tank will reduce the alkalinity.
Agree totally with Hallyx, don’t use pH buffers as you are going to have your pH ‘crashing’ around as you are not addressing the underlying problem. I noticed you said the pH of the drinking water was fine but you didn’t mention the alkalinity, did you measure this? It is quite possible that the drinking water was ‘artificially’ buffered in the sealed container as 7 seems a little too convenient.
The parameters for well water will alter as the water table rises and falls and ‘other factors’ come in to effect.
Have to agree with Hallyx as well regarding the oxygenation of the tank, I also suspect that pH is not the sole/main culprit behind your problems.
RSV hit on a central point, the alkalinity/buffer/KH. Running an airstone will raise your pH, but it won't do much for your KH. Raising your GH (calcium and magnesium) will raise the KH (through a process I don't fully understand). That's the approach to take for stabilizing your pH.
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