how much salt to add to eliminate ich/white spot
i have a 70L tank and i have noticed my fish brushing against the gravel anf they have white spots on there tails......i have used some treatments but they dont seem to be working .....i want to add salt but i dont know how much to add.....and if i add salt will it change the PH of my water ????
in my tank 1 blue gourami , 3 platy , 1 adult guppy and 8 youngsters.......any replys will be apreciated ...:):):)
I don't think salt will change your PH. The salt I have says to use 1tbs per 5 gal. But I don't think salt is an effective treatment for Ich. My book doesn't say to use salt at all for that. You should maybe raise the temp and get some good Ich treatment and use per instructions not stopping treatment prematurely. I know from experiance that Rid Ich plus works well. I would not consider myself to be an expert though. But I can say that I have never lost a fish to ich. I have had fish on and off for 24 yrs or so.
i agree, i also used rid ich + by kordon and will use it again if i ever have to that is. reading the instructions is a must and following through the steps of i think it was 3 treatments.
You can use salt in conjunction with many medications... it is very beneficial when used with another medication. Not only does it discourage bacterial growth (which could spell a secondary infection if your fish's immune system is already struggling) it acts like a fishy Gatorade by restoring electrolytes to your fish's body.
For a good, non-invasive parasite treatment I recommend a copper-based mediaction. It will also help to keep your water freakishly clean and crank the heat up so that the ich will drop off the fish to reproduce (where it will then be exposed to the medication) faster.
i will use a pinch of salt tnight when i add some king british medicine (not sure if this is available in us) but if i add a drop of salt (dissolved first) with the medicine to the water should this clear up the white spot parasite???
What temp is the tank? If you can bump the tank up to 81-82 deg, along with the use of meds, you should see the ick drip off faster. Add extra air to aearate, Both meds and heat depreciate oxygen levels.
the temp is 27 not sure what that is in faranheit but i can keep my air pump on and
27=80.6 deg, according to the aquarium calculator.http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...calculator.php
Actually salt will work just fine for ich cases assuming the ich is not salt-resistant YET. Chemicals are quite harsh. Use them only as last resorts. Go with salt first before you try anything else. I don't rely on books to get my info from. They tend to be outdated or lacking relevant info sometimes.
Here's my article on ich along with treatments.
White Spot Disease
Early signs of white spot begin when fish flick themselves against rocks. They may also swimming in an odd behaviour as if they were trying to use the water to wash away an irritation. Some of the more common causes are stress, bad water conditions, live food that have been infected by the pathogens or already infected fish without quarantining it.
Ich is a protozoal infection that afflicts fish and can rapidly kill them, most often by damaging gill tissue. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and manifests as tiny white spots all over the fish. The spots are no larger than grains of salt. The wide host range of this parasite is its life cycle, and speed of multiplication especially in a tropical aquarium. When you see the white spot on your fish, it is already too late for those ich particles to be avoided.
The organisms, trophonts goes through a life cycle of a small white spot feeding on your fish which drops off to the floor of your tank and encases itself in a cyst called tomont. While encased in a cyst, it divides into up to 2000 new mobile organisms called theronts. The cyst then ruptures, thus releasing the theronts which seek out a host to feed into. They must locate a host within 24 hours otherwise they will die. Only the mobile stage is vulnerable to treatments.
Ich will appear if the fish is stressed. Note that it acts more as a 'contaminant' and is not part of the tank's ecosystem. Any new fish should be quarantined for 2-4 weeks. Failing that will increase the risk of introducing diseases which wil affect other occupants. New fish are always possible carriers of diseases.
Increase the temperature to at least 84-86 degrees as much as the fish can tolerate. Add aquarium or table salt (dissolved in water) at a ratio of 1-3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water in your tank equivalent to 0.1-0.3% depending on the tolerance level of your fish.
For basic procedures, here are the steps.
1. Dose one teaspoon per gallon of salt or equivalent to 0.1%.
2. After 12 hours and assuming the fish has tolerated it very wellso far, repeat step 1.
3. After another 12 hours, repeat step 1 again.
For bottom dwellers such as plecos and loaches, you may need to maintain the saline solution at 0.1-0.2% so it will not be detrimental to them although there have been few instances where some catfishes can tolerate as much as 0.3%.
Do make sure your fish can tolerate the elevated saline solution. If in doubt, be prepared to do a water change to relieve the fish of the osmotic stress caused by the salt. Try not to lose focus on the actual saline solution you already administered or you might end up overdosing the salt more than it was necessary. Should a water change be necessary, make sure you redose the salt solution per the water volume replaced.
For example, a 10g needs 30 teaspoons at 3 teaspoons per gallon of water measurement. If you wish to change at least 50% of the water, then another 15 teaspoons of salt should be redosed to keep the saline solution effective against the parasites.
For those not familiar with the teaspoon = tablespoon conversion, a round heap of tablespoon is equivalent to 3 teaspoons.
While waiting, it does not hurt to add a powerhead or airstone to increase the oxygen level. Over the first couple days, your fish will appear worse and will eventually recover as the treatment progresses. In most cases, ich will disappear on the sixth day. However, there is still a probability that some cysts have not yet ruptured so it is advisable to keep the treatment up for full ten days.
If you are not able to raise the temperature at all especially if you are dealing with fish that lack tolerance for temperature above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, you may need to extend the treatment although a good general guideline is to continue 7-10 more days of treatment right after the ich had seemingly disappeared.. At 85 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle of ich is quicker. The colder the temperature, the slower the life cycle thus the treatment will extend even longer than required.
Unfortunately many plants do not do well with this salt treatment and may appear to wither but will usually come back in time once the salt treatment is over. Removing them to a salt free environment after a thorough rinsing may save them, however they must be kept at the high temperature or for an extended period of time. When the cyst breaks up in the plant holding tank, the small parasites will be unable to find a host and will die within 24-48 hours. Ich is easily transferred to other fish tanks so do not share nets, heaters and wet hands between infected and non infected tanks.
Clown loaches and young oscars are notorious for getting ich after they are transferred to your tank. These and many others can tolerate salt. If you are unsure about your fish’s tolerance for salt, be sure to look for answers in a reference book or ask an expert.
A salt test kit available at your local fish store will help you get the exact dosage. Something in the range of .2%, is where you want to be.
Malachite Green, Formalin
thanks i added salt and today i noticed none of my fish are brushing against the gravel....i know they may not all be eliminated now but i supose its a start...:):):)
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