Salt water 10g
I am planing on setting up a 10 gallon reef tank later on...
Here are my questions
How many times does my filter need to "filter 10g of water in an hour"
What fish are good for it
what invertibrates are sutible
how many times does my tank need to "Turn all the way around(circulate in an hour)"
The concept of how many gallons per hours of filtration is not really a concept we discuss in saltwater tanks. This is a freshwater concept.
What type of filtration are you running?
Well I can tell you for sure an ocellaris clownfish is a good choice, and the most common choice, I love these fish, you can also opt for a yellowtail damsel, I believe this would also be ok, if you prefer this type of fish, or if i am not mistaken there are a couple of Goby fish you may be able to choose from.
You should be able to choose from a couple of shrimp for invertibrates, my favorites are the sexy anemone shrimp and the fire or blood shrimp, I think one of these would also be ok.
as for your other questions, I am not sure, so will let someone with more experience answer...and maybe also confirm about the fish mentioned above.
it will be a penguin 150 boi-wheel
Maby a small home made protien skimmer
I have dicided to move up to a 20 gallon which could hold move fish a high or long
The Penguin 150 biowheel is a very efficient biological filter. I am a huge fan of the Penguin biowheels, but there are drawbacks that you need to be aware of if using these on a marine aquarium.
First, recognize that one of the primary goals in a marine aquarium is to keep Nitrates at or near zero. The goal of the Penguin Biowheel is to break down waste, with an end result of Nitrate. These 2 concepts are in conflict with each other.
Another issue with the biowheel is related to alkalinity. One of your most important measures of stability in a marine aquarium is alkalinity. The biowheel is a biological filter, which means that alkalinity is being depleted during the nitrification process. This is another hurdle that must be overcome.
If your aquarium was larger than 20 gallons, I would be completely against this idea. However, in tanks of 20 gallons and smaller, the use of a biological filter is doable, provided you make a few simple adjustments to your normal routine.
First, you want to use activated carbon much more aggressively than in freshwater. You should literally change the filter pads out for a new pad every week, 2 weeks at most, regardless of how dirty they appear to be. I would highly suggest that you cut the top of the filter sleeve and add additional activated carbon. The reason for this is simple. Activated carbon absorbs organic acids. Organic acids break down into nitrate, and deplete alkalinity. If you can utilize the carbon to remove organics directly from the water, PRIOR TO THE WATER COMING IN CONTACT WITH THE BIOWHEELS, then the amount of Nitrates produced will be considerably less.
Another adjustment will be the cleaning of filter pads. You will want to rinse the pads DAILY. This will remove small particulates of waste that become attached to the pad and begin to decay, resulting in increased nitrates and phosphates. Even if you can't see dirt accumulation, there are small organic particles that will be removed with a daily rinsing.
The next consideration that will be very important is the depth of your substrate. You want to use a reef grade aragonite sand, at a depth of 4'' to 6''. This depth will provide for ideal denitrification, which is the process of Nitrates being biologically processed into nitrogen gas. Nitrogen gas leaves the system naturally and is harmless. This denitrification process does not occur in the biowheel. The deep sand bed is required. You will find this very helpful in controlling Nitrates.
Finally, be sure to test Nitrates weekly, as well as alkalinity and calcium. This is highly important when using a filter that is designed to intentionally increase Nitrates and lower alkalinity. You will need to make adjustments as needed.
I spend some time explaining these concepts in greater detail on this thread:
so would a penguin filter be better a just moving the water with out filterpad, could i leave the litte wheel in there if i was using it to move water?
and about the size i have dicieded to go back to a ten and use it as a sump later on and i what it to just have invertibrits(maby a yellow watchman goby or a green clown IF it or they would not cause any isuses) like 3 sexy shrimp, 1 scarlet hermit, 3 blue hemits, 1 emerald crab, and 2 nassarius snails with a full 4'' sand bed with ?(how much live/dry rock) The tank will have a volcano decoration that has an air stone in it for airation(do you need that in salt water tanks) if not it will not be in there. and the tank will have a water change every week. i would like corals including daisy polyps a kenya tree didn't cody have a like disk coral or something like that i'd what one of those. I think i will upgrade to a 40 gallon breeder.
I would consider the tank, based on your livestock listed above, to be overstocked. You listed a total of 10 animals that are all competing against each other for the same natural food sources, constantly grazing on the live rock and sand bed. Ten is a huge number. I would eliminate 2 of the blue hermits and the emerald crab.
You will want probably 12-18 pounds of total rock. Depending on the structure of your rock, you could even use more. It all depends on the look you are going for.
You do not need an airstone. In fact, you do not want one. Salt creep is a serious problem in marine aquariums and the air stone will make it 10 times as bad.
so you are saying i should get 3 sexy shrimp 1 scarlet hermit 1 blue hermit and 2 snails would a YWG cause any issues (i realy want to get one i will drop the sexy shrimp to get a YWG)would the penguin filter running empty be enough circulation i have never owned a saltwater tank.
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