Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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-   -   the beaslbob build (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/advanced-freshwater-discussion/beaslbob-build-295530/)

beaslbob 11-01-2013 10:50 AM

the beaslbob build
 
reference:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agent13 (Post 3318642)
Curious then, do you get algae/cyano problems then?

Also more idle curiosity here. If you were to set up a 10 gallon tank using your ideally preferred method could you walk me through it exactly.. substrate, stock, plants how you'd do the cycle(if you do cycle ..you do right?) . Maintenance, decor, equipment etc.
or if you have a 10g setup could you just explain that one ? and maybe a picture?

Pwetty pwetty pwease??

from thread:


http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...uarium-294058/

I posted this on another forum site and one poster titled their build thread as the beaslbob build just because it 'had a ring to it' :lol: You can now google beaslbob build or beaslbob method and get many hits.

So here is what I do:

equipment required

tank (10g used here) $15 or so.

old timie 2 tube incandescent hood. ($20 bought seperate and new but sometimes included in 10g starter kits or available at thrift centers and the like).

2 11-14 watt skinny spiral pig tail 6500k floursent bulbs. Designed to replace incandescent bulbs. Wall mart had GE packages clolored blue with "6500k" vertical down the sides. 2 tubes ~$5 or so. Note: the wattage it not the much higher equilivant incandescent wattage which is the wattage of an equilivant incandescent bulb).

1 1'x1'x3' plastic bag if canadain sphagum peat moss. $11 building supply stores. (note no ferts added)

1 50 pound premium play sand. building supply stores $3.

1 50 pound bag pro choise select. from: Pro's Choice Products. $6. (Had to contact that manufacturer to get a local source.)

plants: 4 bunches of anacharis, 4 Vallisneria, 4 small potted types (swords, crypts etc), 1 amazon sword.. (for reference check out: Vals, Corkscrew (Vallisneria americana) (10 plants per order) ) ~$30-50 or so.

some kind of stand to put aquarium on.

setup:

1) place 1" of peat moss in the tank. Add water up to the top of the peat moss. Level the moss and clean the edges of the tank.

2) Place 1" of play sand on top of the wet moss. Repeat the adding water, leveling and cleaning.

3) Place 1" of pc select on top of the sand and again add water, level, and clean.

4) Add the plants. I like the anacharis in back, vals down the sides, the potted left and right of center and the amazon sword more or less centered. Then level the pc select till it looks nice.

5) Using water from a commonly used cold water faucet add water poured over a dish untill the tank is full.

6) Add the lights and turn on 8-10 hours per day.

7) Do nothing but admire the tank for 1 week.

8) Add a single fish. If live bearer a singe male. I like the dwarf sunburst platties.

9) Do nothing for one week but admire how active the fish is and wonder why he is pooping so nicely. If you feed that fish it will die on the 5th day.

10) Add 2 females (of you use live bearers) or 4 other fish if you did not use live bearers.

11) start feeding 1 flake per day.

upkeep.

1) Feed very lightly.

2) Replace evaporative water with water from a cold faucet that has been ran for a minute or so.

3) If the tank clouds up, you have algae, or cyano, kill the light and stop feeding until it clears up.

Just to be sure you uderstand.

1) no chemicals of any type

2) no mechanicals of any kind. No filters, No airstone. Nothing

3) don't worry about the snail bloom after a few weeks. Do Nothing. In a year there will only be a few left.

Once ot twice a year of maybe more often you may want to "clean" the mulm on the substrate. Just don't get carried away. Don't stir up the substate.

And of course you will probably have to harvest the plants from time to time.




here is a such as it is picture of a 20g long. Notice the "high tech" lighting. :lol:

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...erall10gfw.jpg


Here is the cycle parameters of that 20g long FW

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/fwleiden.jpg



So there it is.

the "beaslbob build". Which has had the same results in may cities in teh US as I was transferred aorund in the air force.

It's just my take on the time honored natural or balanced or walstad or lieden methods. You basically establish a balance eco system right from the start and let that take care of the tank.

and worth at most.

.02

beaslbob 11-01-2013 10:55 AM

Beaslbob build Parameters example
 
I can't access my test results from work so will post that and vid of a tank from home tonight.

:oops:

jaysee 11-01-2013 11:45 AM

I think people in general "do" too much to their tanks. Thanks for sharing.

Agent13 11-01-2013 12:17 PM

Thanks!
"2 11-14 watt skinny spiral pig tail 6500k floursent bulbs" <-lol!!!

oh curious,, is the peat moss for PH issues or some other reason?

beaslbob 11-01-2013 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agent13 (Post 3322186)
Thanks!
"2 11-14 watt skinny spiral pig tail 6500k floursent bulbs" <-lol!!!

oh curious,, is the peat moss for PH issues or some other reason?

that actually is an excellent question.

PH with or without the peat moss rises to purple on the api high range test kit. (8.4-8.8)

I found out that with just play sand kH rose to over 20 degrees and gH rose to 40 degrees or more.

And neon tetras did not do well.

But with the peat moss kH stayed at 4 degrees and gH at 9 degrees for over 2 years.

And neon tetras thrived.


I think the pH is high because the plants are removeing the co2 and returning oxygen. Plus the lack of circulation deters those values from more closely matching atmospheric conditions.

But then I worry that most people expecially newbies would try to change those values. Meanwhile, the fish in my tanks just keep swimming and swimming and swimming.

my .02

Agent13 11-01-2013 01:37 PM

Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking you were dealing with PH from the tap issues.

beaslbob 11-01-2013 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agent13 (Post 3322594)
Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking you were dealing with PH from the tap issues.


and thanks for response. :lol:

Kinda hard to wrap your mind around but give this a thought.

With this system the quality of the tap water is not anywhere nearly as important as when water changes are being done. PH and all other parameters in the tank's environment are overwhelmingly a function of the tank itself. Therefore, the a safe environment in the tank can be setup and maintained with just about any potable tap water. I don't intend to test it but I honestly don't think the input water has to be even potable. (afterall plants are used to clean up enviromental toxic wastes). So as long as the plants are thriving the water will be conditioned to support the fish.

my .02

BWG 11-01-2013 03:01 PM

What are your tapwater pH, KH, GH? If you don't mind me asking.

Flear 11-01-2013 03:35 PM

only a single experiment that was vaguely similar

took dried plant clippings from the tank, chopped them up and threw them in a bucket to break down, ... sure the ammonia skyrocketed, ... but the PH was well above 7.5, (limits of test kit i had)

took about a week before ammonia readings were zero (or close enough)

i was thinking of trying something similar with peat moss to see if it would give a lower PH

your beaslbob build, sounds simular, about a week for things to finish breaking down and ammonia levels to drop.

maybe i'm missing the obvious, ... could you elaborate on this please:
Quote:

Originally Posted by beaslbob (Post 3322450)

PH with or without the peat moss rises to purple on the api high range test kit. (8.4-8.8)

I found out that with just play sand kH rose to over 20 degrees and gH rose to 40 degrees or more.

But with the peat moss kH stayed at 4 degrees and gH at 9 degrees for over 2 years.

-i'm assuming nutrients in the water column are lower with the sandy cap (as the only difference)
-i don't quite get what you mean by the PH being the same with or without the peat ... is that the same reading as your tap water ?

beaslbob 11-01-2013 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flear (Post 3323146)
only a single experiment that was vaguely similar

took dried plant clippings from the tank, chopped them up and threw them in a bucket to break down, ... sure the ammonia skyrocketed, ... but the PH was well above 7.5, (limits of test kit i had)

took about a week before ammonia readings were zero (or close enough)

i was thinking of trying something similar with peat moss to see if it would give a lower PH

your beaslbob build, sounds simular, about a week for things to finish breaking down and ammonia levels to drop.

maybe i'm missing the obvious, ... could you elaborate on this please:


-i'm assuming nutrients in the water column are lower with the sandy cap (as the only difference)
-i don't quite get what you mean by the PH being the same with or without the peat ... is that the same reading as your tap water ?


I meant the final pH of the tank water.

And this was confirmed with an experiment I did with quart mason jars with various substates. Some planted with lights and others kept in darkness.

The planted lit jars all rose to a pH of 8.4 or higher with plant life.

that unlit jars had pH valuse much lower with peat jars the lowest.

IMHO the plants suck out the carbon dioxide which raises the pH.

And oh yea neon tetras live for years at those pH levels.

my .02


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