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Setting Up New 10g Tank - Need Advice

15K views 114 replies 10 participants last post by  Big Fish 
#1 · (Edited)
Howdy,

I just finished setting up a 10g tank to move my new fish into. Here are the pertinent facts:

3 Mollys
2 Guppy
2 Platy

In a 2G holding tank.

So, I have a brand new 10g Tank.

I just washed and cleaned my tank stones and put them in the bottom.
I filled the tank with water.
Added Safe2O
Added Big Als Multi Purpose Bio Support

I also put in two bunches of LIVE PLANTS (cabomba).

Filter has been running almost 24 hours with the Safe2O.
I put in the Multi Purpose Bio only a few hours ago.

So, when can I start bringing over the fish?

Thanks in advance.

Big Fish in a new hobby.:lol::-D
 
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#2 ·
Hello Big Fish & welcome to the forum!

Is the Safe20 used to dechlorinate? If the water is free of chlorine then it should be safe to start moving the fish over.

Congrats on the new tank!

Not sure how much you have read up on cycling a new tank. The bio Support will help, but keep a close eye on ammonia and nitrite levels for a while. You want to keep both under .25 ppm with water changes.
If you do not already have a test kit, the API freshwater testing kit is a good one to have. Most stores will test water for free, but I find it handy to be able to test at home.

Good luck with the new tank!
 
#3 ·
Do you have test kits (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate at the very least)? This is SO important IMO. People are willing to spend good money on filters, lights, plants, rocks, fish, etc and don't bother with test kits. It should be a part of setting up a new aquarium. At least have ammonia and nitrite on hand to begin with if you can't afford a master kit. Ammonia and nitrite are the first 2 in the nitrogen cycle.

Personally I wouldn't put all of the fish in there at once, but if they're in a 2.5 g holding tank right now I can't say that's a better situation for them (2.5g is small for 7 fish). Even w/ the live plants you're probably still have an ammonia spike & nitrite spike. I know some folks are alot more rebellious than I am but if it was my tank I would be ready for DAILY water testing and be prepared for partial water changes at any given moment. If you can get your hands on some established filter floss (perhaps from someone w/ an established healthy tank) you may get through the new tank syndrome phase faster. Google new tank syndrome. You'll find alot of sites w/ useful information.

Beginner FAQ: The Nitrogen Cycle

Here's one to get you started on cycling a new tank. Good luck! And get test kits...:)
 
#4 ·
Hey, thanks for the quite responses.

I was at Big Al's early today. They were out of kits. That was the first thing I tried to buy. I will check in Wed.

The Safe2O is to declorinate. I did this yesterday and started up the filter. Both have been going 24 hours. The Multipurpose is for bacteria.

The 2G is way too small, I realize that. We are simply holding them there until it is safe to go into the Big Boy. :)

I have to wait until Wed or so for the kit. I would prefer to put them in the big tank. I would think they would be better off, no?
 
#6 ·
Thank you. Hello to you as well. Nice to be here.

I read the FAQ. So, I am shooting blind without the kit.

I would think that with the bacteria culture I have introduced, the new tank, the new filters running 24 hours and the proper chemicals for chlorine, it should be safer for them than the 2G bowl?

My rush to move them from the 2G bowl is that I feel that is the worst place for them.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thank you. Hello to you as well. Nice to be here.

I read the FAQ. So, I am shooting blind without the kit.

I would think that with the bacteria culture I have introduced, the new tank, the new filters running 24 hours and the proper chemicals for chlorine, it should be safer for them than the 2G bowl?

My rush to move them from the 2G bowl is that I feel that is the worst place for them.
Yes, you are absolutely correct in your thinking. You have two things in your favour, the plants and the biological supplement. The latter adds bacteria [I'm not directly familiar with this particular product, but I understand that it works like others such as Cycle and Stress Zyme] and the bacteria will multiply as they consume the ammonia produced by the fish and the nitrite produced by the first set of bacteria. It takes 9-18 hours for the two bacteria to double [nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia and ammonium to nitrite and can multiply every 9 hours, and nitrospira/nitrobacter bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate and can multiply somewhere up to 18 hours] and this they will both do as long as there is food to warrant it.

The benefit of plants is that they immediately absorb ammonia and nitrite, and internally convert it to ammonium which they need for photosynthesis. In a relatively heavily-planted aquarium, more ammonia and nitrite are actually consumed by the plants than by all the bacteria [according to Diana Walstad who cycles her new tanks in one day simply by using plants]. I do the same, although I also add Stability [and previously have used Cycle] as an added precaution since it can do no harm. Cabomba is a fast growing plant (moreso that say rooted plants like swords and crypts) and therefore requires more of the food so that's another plus. Make sure the tank light is on for an adquate period or photosynthesis cannot occur.

You can and should (once you have a test kit) check ammonia and nitrite periodically; if either level rises a partial water change will help. But from what you have indicated, I wouldn't expect to see ammonia or nitrite above 0.

Byron.

P.S., I'm probably reading more into your comment about filters running 24 hours, but just to be safe, the filter must remain running permanently. The bacteria that will colonize it need oxygen from water passing through, or they will die off. Of course, there will be far more bacteria living in the tank (on plant leaves, tank walls, substrate, wood...) than in the filter, but nevertheless it pays to keep it running, and for other reasons as well.
 
#9 ·
At this point, I would say that the 10g is better than the 2.5g. Either way you're going to go through the break in process of cycling a tank. If you're going to transfer them, try to bag them (using water from the 2.5g), tie the bag up like they do in the fish store, float the bag for 20 minutes or so in the 10g (keep lights off), and after 20 minutes open the bag, fold the top over a couple of times so that the bag floats on the surface. Begin adding small amounts of water from the 10 gallon into the bag every 10 - 15 minutes until you double the amount of water they started in. This way you slowly acclimate them to the new tank water. Your water parameters may be different in each tank. Twistersmom told me to do this when I transfered my fish from their 20g into the 75g. It's time consumming but it was alot less stressful on the fish to acclimate them slowly to the new tank. It was a great piece of advice that I will follow whenever adding fish to a tank.
 
#10 ·
I will buy a test kit by Wed. That is when they said they would stock again. I am also going to go to the local mall and see if the pet store there has one.

When I said I had run the filter 24 hours, that is how long it has been since I started preparing the tank. The filter will now run forever! ;)

So, I am going ahead then. I have put the fish in a bag to get them used to the temperature of the big tank. It is close, but I will let the get used to the temperature and then transfer.

I will also try to post a picture later after they swim around a bit and I figure out how to get a picture posted!

Thanks
 
#11 ·
Mix the water, this is very important. Whenever I transfer fish from one of my tanks to another that is new, I net them out into a pail of the established tank water, half full, then slowly add water from the new tank; depending upon the degree of difference in temp and pH and hardness (all three are very important, not just temp) this can be done with 2 additons or longer with more. I then net the fish from the pail into the tank.

You can do much the same with a plastic bag; float it to equalize the temp, then add a half cup or so of tank water to the bag, wait 15 minutes, add more, and so on. Then net the fish out of the bag.

You could, as it is your tank they're coming from, tip the bag and let the fish swim out with the water. But never do this with fish from stores. You don't need the pathogens and waste in the water in your tank.

Byron.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Byron,

The transfer is complete. They look happy enough. I have two pictures, but have no idea how to transfer them so you can have a look!
Assuming the pics are digital, load them onto your computer in a file/folder. Then on here, when you do a new post in this thread, under the "Additional Options" below you'll see a button "Manage Attachments", click on that, then click on "Browse" on your computer, find the file/folder, and click "Upload". When it has, close the attachments window. You can click Preview" to see the message with the photo to confirm it worked. B.
 
#19 ·
Big Fish, the new 10g Tank!

The first is a picture of the tank while I am getting it ready.

The second is with the happy new occupants.

For those who did not see my first post, the fish are:


3 Mollys
2 Guppies
2 Platy

They are great today!! Fed them this morning. One thing I don't like is how the filter shoots the food around the tank!

I dropped it in and because it moves the water, the food swirled and the fish had to chase it all over the tank. I turned the filter on to minimum but it didn't reduce the movement by too much.

Thanks for everyones help, greatly appreciated.

PS: Threw my back out last night! I think I have a prolapsed disc! Oh the joy! :roll:
 

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#21 ·
Thanks, my daughter picked the ornaments and the fish. Not my taste (castle), but she loves them. I picked the blue gravel, plants and florescent lighting.

I have lower back muscle problem. Currently hunched over like I am 90. I got the usual back relaxant script and anti-inflammatory + pyshio. Should be good to go in a week or two. It happens.

Now, funny thing.... do fish react to you??? I got home from the doctor, went to the aquarium and they all bunched where I had my face close to the glass. Do they associate you with feeding?

Very cool if they do!!!
 
#22 ·
Yes, fish learn very quickly that you feed them.
If you feed them on a schedule, same time everyday, somehow they know when it is close to feeding time and become much more active.

Some fish are more observant then others. My rainbow darters pay more attention to whats going on outside their tank, they always have their eyes on me.
 
#23 ·
Fish can be very programmable. I've got a bristlenose plec that hides ALL day. As soon as the moonlights kick on he comes to the right front corner of the tank, where he waits until I drop an algae wafer in front of him. I'm convinced he knows exactly what he's doing. :)

Sorry about your back. I hope you feel better soon!
 
#24 · (Edited)
Sorry about your back. I hope you feel better soon!
Thanks, I should be much better in a few days. I am prone to this!

Well, that is too funny. I had no idea. This is going to be my little secret so I can impress my better half with my fishmiester-magnatism.:lol::lol:

Something else I have noticed today. My lights are increasing the water temperature by 2 degrees!!

I have a 15 WATT and a Florescent Lamp. Both generate a fair amount of heat. Left unattened, I can see this can cause problems. How do some of you handle this?

I just thought of something, in an emergency, how do you bring the temperature down?

Thanks.

And, by the way, I greatly appreciate all your responses.:)
 
#26 ·
I have a hood on the tank that has two screw in light receptacles. One has a 15W and the other, I replaced with a screw in florescent lamp.

I guess I will remove the 15W and put the florescent over the plant side of the tank. Good idea to use a timer. I will set that up.

So, the best thing to do is let the tank sit if the temp goes up too high. Thanks. I have opened the flap at the front as well to let the air circulate as the lamps cool down.
 
#28 ·
I have a hood on the tank that has two screw in light receptacles. One has a 15W and the other, I replaced with a screw in florescent lamp.

I guess I will remove the 15W and put the florescent over the plant side of the tank. Good idea to use a timer. I will set that up.

So, the best thing to do is let the tank sit if the temp goes up too high. Thanks. I have opened the flap at the front as well to let the air circulate as the lamps cool down.
If the bulbs have a screw base then a compact fluorescent would work. They produce very little heat. I would use two to even the light, and probably the bulbs that are equivalent to 25 regular watts of light (not sure the CF wattage for this). I've seen them in different light colours, by which I mean cool white, warm white, intense white. Cool white leans toward blue, warm towards red. A mix of one of each might look fine, you can experiment; the bulbs can be used in regular lamps of course, so not wasted. B.
 
#29 ·
Art, thanks on both. The Arthrotec and Apo-Tizanidine have taken the edge off and the spasms have stopped so I am in good shape.

Byron,

I have a Colormax 20 Watt Mini Compact Corallife Daylite Lamp (screw base-amazing light). These puppies are not cheap. With tax... $30! I will go get another one when I get the test kit.

I really love the look these lamps give the tank. It is that fish store look. Way, way better than the incandescent lamp that was in the hood originally. No comparison. The bottom of the tank just glows and fish look more vibrant.
 
#31 ·
Thank you Willow. I had a good night last night, but I suspect this will take a good week.

I have a new concern now as we move along. Cleaning the bottom. Part of the "kit" I have includes a siphon for vaccuming the bottom. I have never done this before. Any tips on how often I should do this and what the technic is?

Greatly appreciate your comments.

Thanks
 
#32 ·
Most of us vacuum the substrate when doing the weekly partial water change. You can run the syphon tube along the top of the gravel to collect any mulm sitting there, and where there are no plants push it very slightly into the gravel to stir it up and remove the smaller particles that have begun to work their way down. With plants, this mulm is food so you don't want to remove all of it. As I have plants and corys, I tend to go into the gravel in the areas I can see that have no plants so the crys have a cleaner substrate to sift through when feeding.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Are bottom feeders a good thing?

If so, what would you recommend for a 10G tank? My setup is listed in my first post in this thread.

Thanks
More than anything, bottom feeders add interest by being active mostly along the substrate. They may eat food that falls to the bottom, depending upon species of fish. Unlike what most of us were told when we started out, they do not clean the substrate; the aquarist still has to vacuum regularly. But I always like to include them for the interest factor.

In a 10g you haven't a lot of space left with 3 mollies, 2 platies and 2 guppies, but if you're regular with the weekly partial water change and don't overfeed I would suggest a group of small corydoras, 3-5. Most of the species max out at around 2 iches, but there are a few that get larger and I would avoid those only because they will increase the bioload and at 4 inches are better suited to larger tanks. The commonly-named "emerald" cory in petstores is usually Brochis splendens, related to the Corydoras but one of the larger ones to avoid in a 10g. The common "peppered" cory (Corydoras paleatus) is nice, and the common green cory (Corydoras aeneus) also, and both are regularly available. But there are many others very interesting in pattern and behaviour, and you might want to browse around; you can check out species info with photos at this site PlanetCatfish • the online home of aquarium catfishes

I went back through this thread and didn't see any info on your water parameters, but in Toronto I woldn't expect your water to be too hard and alkaline. Livebearers (the fish you have now) do better in slightly basic (alkaline) water with a pH above 7.0, and corys would manage OK as long as your pH is below 8.0, especially the commonly-available ones that are now mostly tank or pond-raised and thus better adapted to this water. Corydoras originate from South America in waters usually slightly to quite acidic, but this is of significance if you get wild caught fish; the more commonly-available commercially raised varieties have adapted well.

I mentioned getting 3-5 because corydoras are social fish that should be kept in a group, and I have found three to be the minimum. Three peppered and 2 green would be OK, they get along with each other regardless of species, although I have found they do like at least one of their own species for comfort. A couple of good quality tablet/sinking pellet foods will ensure they get their nutrition; drop in one or two tabs when feeding the flake and they'll find it, or drop the tablets in after the light goes out; corydoras are active during the night, unlike the other fish.

Byron.
 
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