Moved up to bigger tank - questions
First the basic answers from the sticky.
1. 90 gallon tank
3. 2 weeks old
4. (6) Mollies, (12) Molly fry, (1) 4" Algae Eater (actual species unknown)
5. (1) 6" live plant (species unknown but bought at LFS)
6. (2) Emperor 400 HOBs and (1) Magnum 350 cannister (in middle)
6a. (2) 300 watt VisiTemp heaters - tank at 78 degrees
7. No CO2 unit but I did add one tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons
8. Aquarium is near a window but no direct sunlight hits it
9. Water change was done 4 days ago before putting fish in
10. Daily - once or twice (flakes every day, krill or blood worms or shrimp pellets as a treat - algae tablet once a week)
11. Fluorescent lamp (one 48" tube that came with hood) - 10 hours daily (on timer)
Ok, so this is basically my new setup, upgrading from a 10 gallon that I had great success with for 4 years, even though I only learned about the cycle, etc in the past 3 weeks.
I openly encourage anyone to critique my setup now...because I thought I did a good job. I am quite nervous though having jumped 9x in size.
The tank isn't at an angle as it seems...I took the pic in a hurry and this is my first time hosting/posting a pic on a forum. Apologies if it doesn't work out.
My first question is that I wanted to get this going quickly, for fry space, so I ported over some gravel, the filters (Whisper model in 10 gal placed within tank of the Emperors for a week), and ornaments into the new tank, had it running for over a week, only used dechlorinate on the water and Stabil (bacteria product) all around. I moved the fish over 3 days ago, and yet my readings this morning were zero for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Now the fish 'appear' to be doing fine, in fact they continue to swim all over the place exploring, but I want to know where my Nitrates went since my tap water out the faucet gives a reading of 20-40ppm?
Do I have too much water flow in the tank with all this filtration? I am worried about the fry being thrust around although they seem fine so far.
I am going to be experimenting with additional material in the Emp user-changeable filters, possibly using Ammo-carb and floss.
Now, although it is not directly in the sun, natural light does hit this tank more then it did the old 10 gallon, so I am curious about these UV Filters for algae and pest control, like ick. I may pick one up to go on the return from the Mag350, but I am sort of waiting to see signs that I need it. Comments on this?
I have my 2 thermometers next to the heaters, and I am told they should be far away, so I am moving them later today. I will be attempting more live plants if the one I got survives a bit, I put 2 plant feeder tablets in the gravel near it and I have extras for later.
I have more questions (like fish ideas) but I will let it go with just what I have underlined here for now. Thanks for any comments.
Very well done, but the water, gravel and media bugs do not survive that long without feeding so whenever i do this (I do it the same way you have) I chuck in suicide squad, generally the cheapest hardiest fish i can get they keep the media and gravel bugs have until the rest of the tank catches up. :)
Re: Moved up to bigger tank - questions
Your fish are fine at the moment as you don't have ammonia and nitrites however once both become detectable during the cycling phase, your fish will show symptoms of poisoning and gill and fin burns. Be sure to monitor your fish and water parameters closely.
As for ich, it rarely happens provided you quarantine your fish, prevent stress-related factors and very low temperature. Keep your temp steady. Any swings just stress the fish increasing their vulnerability to ich. Ich will not appear until a fish becomes stressed but neither will it appear unless introduced via a carrier(unquarantined fish).
I know, I should have used some minnows for that week, but it was one (not the only!) thing that slipped my mind with going 140 miles for the tank/stand and then more mileage/shopping for the rest of the new stuff.
I hate to say this, but if I lost the fish I have, it wouldn't be catastrophic...I could replace them for $20.
One question I forgot to add to my other crap, is my pH is ~7.8 out of the tap and in the tank. I would like to get this down to 7.5. Any recommendations for such? I have used drops in the past but am weary of that.
I went 4 years with the 10 gallon, never checked a thing and the water was always just crystal clear. I only lost fish if I didn't change out the water every 6 months. I had overkill in filtration then too (a 20 gallon sized Whisper). Dunno what I was doing right.
Why do you want to lower the ph?
I read that Mollies like 7.5, and if I want to introduce other types of fish or creatures (not yet), I didn't want it to affect them.
My test kit is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit
I don't have anything to check Mag and Calcium, hardness, or oxygen, yet.
Question further about sunlight...are you saying a room without windows at all? I figured if people put their tanks in living rooms and bedrooms, then mine could handle being in a dining room, just that it is not up against the window and there is an overhang and trees in the yard that blocks the sun directly.
If you put a good thick backing on the tank you can put it next to a window, mines directly in front of a window, but I live in England and the sun don't really shine.
As for the mollies and .3 or whatever it is ph wont make a difference.
What is your plant? I believe your plant is consuming the nitrates quickly. I assume it is one of those plants in the category where they are just undemanding and fast growing. Any pictures? The picture of your tank is not working.:squint:
Dlil's suggestion is better though.:)
Gah...copied the wrong url. I am so sorry.
Does it work now?
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