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- - Help my fish please, they are dying. Details and photos in thread. (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/tropical-fish-diseases/help-my-fish-please-they-dying-26339/)
Help my fish please, they are dying. Details and photos in thread.
In the past three days I've lost a number of fish to what seems to me to be some type of disease. I have no experience with fish diseases. I've lost 5 Cardinal Tetras and 2 Zebra Danios so far. I have 1 Zebra Danio that just today begain showing symptoms and my Pleco is now showing symptoms as well. I fear they will both be dead when I come home from work tomorrow. The Cardinal Tetra that died today began showing symptoms only yesterday. None of the Bloodfin Tetras are showing symptoms as of today and neither is my Blacktail Shark.
The one and only symptom I can see for all of these fish are pale, colorless patches of skin. The patches are not there at all one day, then they appear the next day and then the fish is dead the next day.
I've looked through the fish disease thread and see a few that it could possibly be (Patchy Disease, Columnaris, Brooklynella Hostilis, Costia). Can I get some help in narrowing down what disease this is and what I need to do about it?
Here are photos of the two fish that are currently alive and showing symptoms and my water readings from just a few days ago. I did a partial water change of about 15% with conditioned tap water 2 days ago.
High Range pH: 7.8
Temperature: 77 deg. F
This Zebra has a pale spot that just came about today. It looks identical to the spots on the fish that are now dead...
This Pleco has multiple pale spots along the lenght of the body that weren't always there...
Your ammonia isl too high, that level is still considered toxic, are you doing water changes daily. Was your tank already cycled before you added the fish?
The ammonia was at .50 about two weeks ago. I did a bunch of work on the tank/water and got it down to .25. I realize it's not great but I thought .25 was the maximum amount considered not to be horrible.
The tank has been existing for years with sporadic water changes occupied by the Pleco and the Redtail shark so no cycling has been needed recently.
I'm not doing daily water changes right now. I've been using a de-chlorinating conditioner on my tap water that I put into the tank and heard some can boost ammonia. So I just bought some different de-chlorinating conditioner that says it also neutralizes ammonia. I was hoping that would solve the .25 ammonia issue. The stuff hasn't arrived in the mail yet.
This product amquel by kordon helps rid ammonia. It removes ammonia as most dechlorinators only lock it for 24 hours. I would do some water changes in the meantime at least until someone with a little more experience in diseases comes along. Good luck
The product I bought, that hasn't arrived yet, is API Ammo Lock. The description says...
*Aquarium water conditioner instantly detoxifies ammonia
*Scientifically proven to protect fish cells against ammonia
*Makes tap water safe for fish by removing chlorine and chloramine
Works instantly to help remove deadly chlorine and chloramine from tap water. Locks up toxic ammonia produced by decomposing plants, algae, fish waste, dead fish, and uneaten food. Ammonia is converted to a non-toxic form to eliminate ammonia-related fish stress while biological filtration further breaks it down into nitrite and then nitrate. Safe for all fish, invertebrates, and plants and can be used with all medications including Methylene Blue, Malachite Green, and Acriflavine. Will not alter pH or deplete oxygen levels. Does not contain any copper or formaldehyde.
Here are the results of an ammonia test I just did a minute ago...
The Zebra Danio in my first photos of this thread just turned upside down, sank to the bottom and died.
Here are two diseases to look into, taken from Lupin's sticky on freshwater disease. I have no personal eperience with either disease. For treatment, I would do a large 50% water change and treat with Maracyn & Maracyn-Two. Great meds, when used together they can cure a number of different fish diseases.
Keeping the ammonia and nitrites at zero is very important in the healing process, daily water changes if needed to keep both at zero. Avoid any ammonia removing product, water changes are the best and safest way to remove ammonia.
Good luck!! Hope your fish get well.
As this seems to affect hillstream loaches more than any other fish species, it must be noted that the affected hillstream loaches usually have abnormally pale patches around their body. They may lose appetite as the disease progresses. Rapid breathing is also noticeable.
Introduction via unquarantined fish.
Maracyn I and Maracyn II-Follow dosage as instructed.
Columnaris (Flexibacter columnaris)
Cotton-wool, Mouth Fungus, Flexibacter
White mouth with tiny filaments, white areas near edge of scales, clamped fins, fins start to rot in the later stage, fish struggles and sways near the surface
This is bacterial infection which is very common in the aquaria and is very contagious. Immediate action is needed to contain it before it spreads to other fish.
Broad spectrum antibiotics, Sera Baktopur, Binox, Maracyn I & II, Kanacyn, Terramycin, Acriflavine, Furan, Copper Sulfate
Flexibacter columnaris thrives very well in warm waters therefore it is necessary to gradually lower the temperature to prevent it from progressing.
Thanks for the help. I'm headed to my LFS tomorrow in hopes that they can help. In the meantime I'll do a good PWC tonight.
One more Zebra died while I was at work today.
Also, your water conditioner is fine to use, just don't use it as a substitute for water changes.
Hopefully your fish store has the Maracyn & Maracyn-Two, if not, go with a good broad spectrum med.
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