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125gallon+ tank and sump
I have set this up now, but I have no fish yet...
Well, a couple of things.
1) Why air stones? With the added surface area of the sump and the disturbance you can generate in the sumps and with the return why bother with the stones?
2) Why the refugium? Why not just put the plants in the main display?
good points but im also interested in why the U-tube style siphon pipe connects the two tanks. this seems like its going to be a disaster if it ever fails. personally i would be happier seeing these two tanks drilled and connected with a bulkhead or two.
Agreed on that.
Also, before the pumps you've got a perforated screen with a wad of polyester fiber at the bottom. What's with that wad of fiber?
I added the airstones for a failed attempt at a "Moving Bed Filter" . I cut up about 400 straws into 1" pieces and had water fall down on them and air lift them...didn't work...all the straws packed against the walls and only a handful actually moved...even varying the amount of straws failed (design flaw). The water-filled pipe is unable to fail as far as it is not blocked. It can be lifted completely out of the water as long as it is level it maintains the water inside(it's a U tube with a U on each end...P-Trap). The Wad is to stop all the dirt getting sucked up into the pumps. As for the plants, I dislike alot of live plants in the main display due to the fact that fish pick on them and they quickly can become a hassle to maintain there. The plants main purpose for me is to filter phosphates and Nitrates.
I agree on drilling the tanks. I didn't have much time for the project and it is very heavy to move by yourself so I have somewhat gotten stuck with what I have...I am thinking of a new design, just ordered 21 Red Mangroves from Hawaii :P
I have no come up with a new design that is even crazier then this one...I will post it when I complete the drawing.
another comment: why the valve on the overflow down to the sump? I can understand the valves on the return plumbing to the display, but I would think that having a valve on the overflow is either (a) useless or (b) dangerous. The amount of water being pumped up the return pipes will determine the rate of overflow... opening or closing the overflow valve won't regulate the rate of water flow, but it could potentially cause the display to overflow onto your floor if the overflow valve is closed too much and can't drain water fast enough. Am I forgetting about something here?
i personally have ball valves on my overflow, but my drain also has 2 lines ( one entering either end of the sump ) this is so if i want to shut down my refugium side i have that option. my return pump is also " T'd " off so i can increase/decrease the flow on that. the only problem i see ( besides shutting down the drain without shutting down the pump lol ) is snails getting caught easier in the slightly shut ball valve pipe. this happened in my other tank when the drains were smaller but i have yet to see it happen with the two 1.5'' drains.
I guess that's true, I didn't consider using it to be sure you are sealed off, if you want to completely remove/replace or otherwise disconnect your sump. But you HAVE to be sure that your pump is turned off before you close your overflow valve LOL! Which is pretty obvious.
I was simply thinking it was a flow restrictor :oops:, which is worthless on the overflow side
I just used the ball valve for simulating a restriction in the overflow. This way I can tell what will happen if my sump gets pumped into my main tank(something people tend to overlook). That way, I can determine level of sump, pump isolation in sump(how much water from sump actually gets to pumps) etc.
Math is great, but real world calculations seem to work bette;-)
Plus, I would hate to have to buy brand new wooden floors!!!
I've redesigned it now with a different sump and refugium(red mangroves)
thanks for the comments!!!!
my plumbing also has unions for easy removal and cleaning.
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