New tanks--- help with sterilizing and cycling? Pics of Surimi in new tank coming so
So I got the new 5 gallon Eclipse tank
It has the old filter in it, that the guy used, but it has something like kinda green on it, should i throw it away and get a new one?
He had an agressive Gourami in it for 3ish years till it died.
also, is there a need to sterilize it? if so, how do i do that? since i can't use soap.
and part 2. How do i do the fishless cycle for this tank?
I am probably going to be walked through this... but i have some testing strips *not as good i know, but it was the only ones they had under $50, not joking* that test 5 different things, PH, Nitrites, Nitrates, Hardness, and Amonia.
so help please!
oh also, Surimi gets his new tank this evening. I got it all set up, and decided to put him in the new tank, since he would really like more swimming room, and the fewer/or less, water changes i know he would prefer.
*pics on monday*
If the tank hasn't been set up for a while, there aren't going to be any beneficial bacteria still living in the filter media, so if it looks gross you can just toss it and get a new one. Most fish stores have the filter media for Eclipse tanks so it shouldn't be too difficult to find. If you want to clean the tank, just use water. If there are white calcium buildups, you can use vinegar to clean that off. You can also use bleach to clean the tank, but be sure to rinse it extremely well before setting it up.
The easiest way to do a fishless cycle, in my opinion, is to use a shrimp. Buy a filter media bag (they're about $1) or use some pantyhose. Just take any frozen shrimp (like the kind you'd eat) and put it in the bag and toss it in the tank. Over time it will decay, producing a steady supply of ammonia. It will make a mess as it falls apart, but that's why you've got it in a bag! No need to do water changes during the cycle since you don't have any fish in there. Just keep testing the water. You should see the ammonia start to spike after a few days. Eventually, your ammonia levels will begin to fall and nitirite levels will start to go up. Finally, the ammonia will disappear and the nitrite levels will start to go down. During this whole process your nitrate levels should slowly climb. The tank is cycled after the ammonia and nitrite have been pegged at zero for at least several days, even with the rotting shrimp still in the tank. At this point, you can remove the shrimp and throw it out, and you'll probably want to do a pretty big water change to bring your nitrates down to an acceptable level (below 20 ppm). Then, you're ready to start slowly stocking the tank. Your test strips are better than nothing, but a liquid kit is really the way to go. You can buy the API Freshwater Master Test Kit from thatfishplace.com for $19, and it's more accurate than your strips (as you know) but it will also last a lot longer.
What are you planning on putting in the 5g?
Good info on cycling.
I haven't decided, i was going to put Dwarf Puffers, b ut i am suspecting i will probably just put in a HM betta and 8 tetras...
Or my other option is like 6 fancy tail guppies
hmmm 8 tetras with a betta is quite a bit for a 5g. Maybe like 2 guppies, a platy, 3 pygmy cories, or 1 betta, 3-4 cherry barbs?
Ooops i meant 6 tetras... I feel that if i am VERY regular in waterchanges then it should be fine... we will see
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:40 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.