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Ick Medications - Ammonia Spike

6K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  okiemavis 
#1 ·
I have a 210 gallon freshwater aquarium. Encountered ick, lost (10) 6" clown loaches. I treated every 3 days for 18 days with Seachem Polyguard (because it only contains 4% malachine green), raised temperature to 85 degrees, while doing 20% water changes and vacuuming gravel before each treatment. The Seachem company told me to treat for 21 days because that is the cycle of ick. There has been no visible white spots for over 9 days; however starting to see an Ammonia spike of 1.5. I am putting in carbon to get the little bit of meds that are left and going to stop treating and use Bio Spira. I still have tetra's, hemi, rams, and golden nugget pleco (all are ok). Is the the right approach? Will ick be gone? So frustrated!!
Laura :D
 
#2 ·
I submitted a post; however didn't realize this information may helpful.
1. Size of aquarium (# of gallons) 210
2. Is your aquarium setup freshwater or brackish water? freshwater
3. How long the aquarium has been set up? 2 months
4. What fish and how many are in the aquarium (species are important to know) 4 Bolivian Rams, 7 Hemiodus Gracillis, 1 Golden Nugget Pleco, 43 Serpae Tetra's, 1 Farwolla Acus (Twig Fish)
5. Are there live plants in the aquarium? Yes
6. What temperature is the tank water currently? 81 degrees
7. What make/model filter are you using? Wet/Dry Trickles (2)
8. Are you using a CO2 unit? No
9. Does your aquarium receive natural sunlight at any given part of the day? No
10. When did you perform your last water exchange, and how much water was changed? 9/2/2008 (44 gallons) = 20%
11. How often do you perform water changes? Weekly (20%)
12. How often and what foods do you feed your fish? Live Black Worms, frozen Brime Shrimp, zuccini slice
13. What type of lighting are you using and how long is it kept on? Nova 5 Extreme T5, 10 hours a day 7 hours bright; 3 hours blue
14. What specific concerns bring you here at this time? Ick Medications crashing or causing Ammonia spike at 1.5
15. What are your water parameters? Test your pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. PH 7.8, Ammonia 1.5, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 12
16. What test kit are you using and is it liquid or test strips? Tetra Test Kit (not strips)
17. When was the last time you bought a fish and how did they behave while in the pet store tank? 3 weeks ago, fine
Laura :?:
 
#3 ·
Well I'd Say

I am truly sorry for your loss, But you did do just about all you could, Heating the water and treating with Good Malachite was the best approach. Trust me the Ick are long gone, Especially after 9 days of not spotting them. As for the ammonia I would probably recommend API ammo lock as a quick fix, It sometimes doesn't show that the ammonia down (On the tests) But it supposedly instantly detoxifys the ammonia which takes care of the problem I have always heard good things about it. Anyways hope that helps, Take it easy and good luck.
 
#4 ·
Thank you for the encouragement. When my tank gets back to normal I will try again with the Clown Loaches, even though they are very prone to Ich. I will also quarantine them for a month before putting them in. These fish are just so comical to watch, it's worth trying them again.
 
#5 ·
You have in my view a relatively young tank and the combination of meds and aggressive vaccuming of the bottom have no doubt depleted some of the beneficial bacteria needed to break down the ammonia. Were it me I would cut feeding to once per day (sparingly) I would not vaccum the tank. shouldn't need to if you are not overfeeding. I understand it was necessary to help rid the parasite. You will have to stay on the water changes until ammonia levels dictate otherwise. In my view all that you need to add to the tank is dechlorinator such as prime or amquel+. The bio- spira could help but I would NOT use ammolock. water changes are all that is needed.Good luck. :)
 
#6 ·
Thanks so much for this information. Since I have been doing 20% water changes every 3 days since August 15th, could I wait a few days to see if the ammonia goes down. It is currently around 1.0 - 1.5. The fish are acting normal, no gasping. My concern is that too many water changes could just delay the process of the tank becomong more stable. What do you think?
Laura :roll:
 
#7 ·
Did the clowns die of the ich or the meds? Lol I mean it would be hard to tell but did they die before or after the meds.

The water changes will slow the tank down, but it will save your fish. And your tank will become more stable again, it just might take a little longer.
 
#8 ·
The clowns died after the second dose of medication. Out of 10 loaches, only 4 had ich, and they had alot of white spots. I put in Poyguard (which only has 4% malachite green) at a lower dose, and four days later all of the clown loaches died. There were no other casulties in my tank just them. After crying for a few days and learning about this parasite I need some assurance that I may have gotten all of the ich out of my tank.
I did water changes every 3 days and vacuumed, which caused my tank to go into a min-cycle. My ammonia is now 1.0-1.5; nitrites 0, nitrates 12. I put in Bio Spira (good bacteria) last evening and didn't do a water change. Am I on track?
Laura :roll:
 
#9 ·
Water change will be necessary any time ammonia level becomes lethal. You need to keep it under 0.5 You are on the right path. It will just take time. the bio- spira if it was kept coolduring shipping and at dealers store shoiuld help speed the new growth of bacteria. I would not change out any filters. If it becomes necessary to clean them just swish them around in old aquarium water. Also be sure and lower the temp in your tank slowly if and when you decide to do so.
 
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