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pop 05-02-2013 08:43 AM

info about power heads and circulating pumps
Would anybody with experience and knowledge of power heads and circulating submersible pumps post opinions about their use; also the use of sump / deep sand beds for freshwater set-up.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.


fish monger 05-02-2013 10:17 AM

Pop, I'm a minimalist who doesn't try to force anything on anything. A lot depends on your circumstances and goals. What are you trying to achieve ?

pop 05-03-2013 06:23 AM

Hello fish monger;
Being a minimalist can prove to be a very good approach to problem solving. It just I donít know much about power head use or sumps and deep sand beds. I just wanted to play with the technologies. I donít have any particular circumstances or goals to reach. I am thinking about removing my 10 gal under gravel filter and replacing it with a deep sand bed or maybe a hang on the back sump.

I would like to have more control over currents and circulation in the tank by drawing from middle of water column and releasing it so that it will sweep across the substrate to the filter. I wonder if it is safe and possible to use red, green and blue food coloring (or other dyes) to observe the exact circulation flows and rate of diffusion of the current. Like I said I am just playing in the aquarium and would like to hear about other folks experiences in this area.


jaysee 05-03-2013 07:31 AM

On my big tanks, I run 2 canisters - one at each end. One pushes water across the tank to the other. Its kind of what you are talking about, though in a smaller tank (less than 4 feet, but not a small tank) a power head would be a better choice to achieve similar results. Works very well for me, and the many others that do this on other forums. It's frowned upon here though - not sure why I'm even mentioning what I do as I get blasted for it. In any event, in a 10 gallon tank, I would not use a power head any more than I would use a second filter. However, a small sponge filter will circulate water through a dead spot. If you are looking for a new filter, my recommendation is the Tom rapids mini canister. I suggest modifying the spraybar to reduce current though, which can be done by making the holes bigger, as well as drilling holes into the back of the spraybar, and also on the end cap.

Carbon ought to remove the food dye.

Sent from App

pop 05-03-2013 02:02 PM

Hello jaysee:
I have failed to properly say thoughts again the 10 gal ugf is in a 40 or 50 gal tank, the only purpose it servers is I like to watch the bubbles travel up in the riser tube and jiggle the carbon. The filter is a fluval 305 which works, but I had to kick it a couple of times.

Have you ever used a power head for circulation? I havenít yet worked my way up to the spray bar concept I am still thinking about river currents and shooting a strong stream across the substrate. I agree with you most folks here TFK canít see the advantages of currents and circulation and prefer only soft & easy water movement.

i was thinking about 3/8th inch soft copper pipe buried in the substrate to use as conduit for the current, releasing the current at specific discharge ports. Realizing how cheap Ií am I should use air to move the water just like air lifts water in ugf lift tubes. If copper pollutes the ecology of the aquarium then I would consider Ĺ inch cpvc or ridge pex for current conduit.

Thank you for the advice,

MoneyMitch 05-03-2013 02:06 PM

pop... ive used low flow circulation pumps (150 gph) or less in my 55 gal.... generally I only need one at one end of the aquarium and ive done a food color test myself with plants/fish in with no ill effects. but anyways I can see the current travels equally through the entire aquarium. be carefull with circulation pumps though as its way easy to get one that's way to much current.

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