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- Coral and Reef Creatures (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/coral-reef-creatures/)
- - bubble anemone (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/coral-reef-creatures/bubble-anemone-14019/)
I got a bubble anemone this weekend and looks like he has found a spot and planted itself, when do I know he is hungry? what should I feed it? how often? I have to oscalaris clownfish and looks like one of my clowns is very interested in it, keeps looking at it last two days, last night he even came up and touched it. My LFS told me I should put them in a net and stick them in the anemone for a day and they will host it after, should I try that or leave him alone for know?
Re: bubble anemone
As for the clowns in the net, kick your lfs guy for me, would ya? All that would do is stress out the fish and the anemone too! If the net touches the anemone it'll close up... what would be the point in something like that? Restricting the movement of the fish will only cause in making them sick, which is the last thing you want to do! Leave them alone, they will adjust to each other over time.
Please remember, if the clownfish are tank raised, they may not understand what to do with an anemone. Hosting in an anemone is not instinctual, it's a learned behavior taught by their parents. When they are tank raised either from tank raised parents, or seperated from wild parents, they never get to learn! Don't be too disappointed if they never use the anemone... there is always that chance.
Thanks bettababy, I thought that was a bad idea to net him in there. The enemone is about 4-5 inches when spread out, orange tips at the end, but the way it has planted itself is underneath a rock and the tenticles sticking out of it, is that ok, will it have enough light? today my clown is acually swimming from one end to the other just grazing the tips, I guess he is just feeling the enemone out.
How much light should I be providing, I do 10 hrs (metal halide 150 W and 2 blue acinic bulbs 96 W) (60 gal tank 24' across)I also have a hammer head and somekind of a disk shaped with tantacles out of it coral and i feed them evey day phytoplanton(5 days a week) and zooluplankton (days a week) will the enemone actually profit from this kind of food?
Sorry for all the questions still a noob at this. thanks.
Can you post pics of the other corals so we can properly identify them before determining about your light?
If a bubble anemone is hiding under rock, it is very possible there is too much light, which can be just as bad as not enough.
What is the water temp? Calcium level? All of these things make a huge difference when keeping any corals/inverts, and should be monitored closely.
Once we know for sure what is all in the tank, we can further discuss proper lighting.
Will post picks tomorow, as for water temp i keep it about 78-80 deg,calcium 440-460, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, amonia 0, ph 8.4, 60 lbs of live rock, about 4-5 inches of live sand, sump with a fuge, 15 hermits, 2 oscalaris clowns, 6 turbo snails, 3 conches, cleaner, fire and camel shrimp.
This morning both of my clownfish hosted the anemone, great day, just like watching your kid take its first steps, will post picks later on.
Damn my camera busted will post picks as soon as i buy a new one (can't upload pictures to comp.)
Is it ok for the anemone to completely close and then after a few hours open? I think my clown are bugging the sh*t out of it, even when it is closed they will find a spot inside and diturb it.
That is normal behavior. There are many things that will cause an anemone to close... passing waste, shift in spg/salinity, change in calcium level, improper lighting (too much or too little), pH shift, temp change/fluctuation, and waste levels.
If you haven't fed the anemone within the past 24 hrs and it is closing, then I would start by checking all of the things above...
I notice in your water params that you have no nitrate... how long has this tank been set up? Even with good filtration, there is usally some detectable nitrate level in a cycled tank.
I didn't see a posting of spg/salinity?
78 - 80 degrees is a bit warm for a bubble... 76 - 78 is much safer. You might not think that 2 degrees makes much difference, but to animals as sensitive as those, 2 degrees can mean life and death. 78 is considered high end for these animals... 80 is pushing a bit past the limit.
Calcium looks good where it is. How many power heads are in the tank? Is there a skimmer? UV? How often are you doing water changes? How much at a time? What are you using for a water source? How long are you premixing the saltwater before adding it to the tank? Is there a powerhead or filter on the mixing vat?
I am eager to see a photo because sometimes there are things that a trained eye will spot right away about a tank just by looking at it... and it is often something we either didn't ask yet or that can only be detected by sight. I saw a pic of a tank once, everything listed in the stats sounded perfect, yet they couldn't keep their corals alive... when the pic was posted, it was quite clear that the current in the tank was too strong, and it was killing things with the force of the water pushing over and into them. The power heads they were running had no diffusers on them, and were blasting the animals with too much force. I have seen others where it was simply the location of powerheads that was causing an issue... again undetectable until I saw a photo.
We'll do all we can to help, but the more details we have about the tank the easier and faster that will go. Post photos as soon as you can. Pay close attention to the tank in the mean time, take notice when the anemone is closing... check everything again, including water params, salinity, temp, etc... and take notice if it happens more when the light is out or when its on. Its a good idea to keep a notebook, and write down with date and time of day anything that you see happening or any time you do anything to the tank. Sometimes it takes a little while, but eventually when there are problems, if you pay attention to your notes and detail them enough when you take them, you'll see a pattern develop. That pattern will usually lead you to the source of the problem, and help you to determine how to fix it.
Sorry we can't be more more immediate help... but lack of information and lack of seeing the tank makes sorting this out a bit harder.
I'l try to borow a camera from a friend to post a pic today
As for the information you were asking:
The tank has been up for 3.5 months
ASM protein skimmer
Salinity : 1.023
using R/O water, 9 watt uv (hardly gets used 1 out 7 days0
10% weekly water changes (prepared and heated one day in advance)
i don't have a power head to mix water
3 corolina power heads in the tank
That last post tells me a lot!
Premixing saltwater without a power head...??? Without circulation it won't mix completely or stabalize in salinity. Are you checking spg/salinity on it before it goes into the tank? Premixing for only one day before adding it?? Saltwater takes at least 48 - 72 hrs to be completely dissolved and stable before using it.
This could very likely be the cause of your problem... or at very least, a contributing factor. Anemones are very sensitive to things like that.
Can I ask why the UV is only used 1 day out of 7? To be completely honest here, using a UV 1 out of 7 days... you may as well not bother at all.
For a UV sterilizer to do it's intended job it should be run all the time. The way it works is that water is pulled through the chamber, exposed to the UV light, which kills all of the little nasties, and then it's pushed back into the tank. In order for all of the water in the tank to be running through the UV, the tank needs good circulation and the UV must stay on. There are a number of parasites and virus's that have incubation periods... there are things that live in the live rock... and when conditions are right, they will then appear, seemingly out of nowhere. If they "wake up" during a time when the UV is off, they will infest your entire tank, and the animals in it. Turning on a UV after this happens is pointless in helping the fish, and will only partially rid the tank of the problem then. The whole idea behind having a UV is to avoid the problem all together, before it can harm the animals.
Something sounds off in your water quality, considering the equipment you're running, the length of time the tank has been up, and the population in it. What kind of test kits are you using? The params you posted would be something I'd expect to see in a new tank with no animals... no food going in... how long was it set up before you added animals? How high were the initial spikes in ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate during cycling?
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