While i'm doing a fishless cycle, am i supposed to put all live plants/ filter/ heater etc. in???
If so, can you please explain why for me?
Also, i know what PH is(don't know what it stands for...), but can someone explain GH and KH??
Sorrry for my newb questions lol
Thanks in advance!
To cycle your aquarium, yes you need to run the filter and heater. The reason you cycle is to seed the filter with the proper bacteria to sustain life in an aquarium. You can't cycle without the filter, fishless or not. The introduction of live plants can occur at any time.
GH and KH, simply put, are a measure of the ability of your aquarium water to prevent the pH from dropping. Testing pH without testing GH or KH is pretty useless. Most hobbyists test for GH in a FW setup, and add a buffer or do water changes to replinish the buffering ability. This is a pretty complicated topic, so i'd suggest using Google to find a few good articles on the subject.
k no worries thanks again.
The only time I have ever taken the effort to check Gh or KH in any tank was years ago when most aquarium fish were wild caught or if I am putting together a tank where such things really mattered. Some plants require very specific conditions to live. Fish are much more adaptable. Unless you are using RO or DI water, in which you add buffers and minerals to the water to create the conditions you wish, these tests are relatively unnecessary.
Check out this link for a guide to fishless cycling. http://www.tropicalfishcentre.co.uk/Fishlesscycle.htm
So you're pretty much saying all i should worry about is the PH for my 10 gallon?
Also, to dechlorinate my water, what should i do?
Reverse Osmosis water(RO) and Distilled water(DI) have all of the elements removed and are truly "flat". One needs to add minerals and substances to the water to bring it to proper levels. I do not worry about these things as I use tap water for almost all of my tanks. Tap water has a nitrate reading of about 5, nitrites 0, pH of 7, ammonia 0. Thats all I worry about. I have never tested for anything else. I do have a RO unit in the basement that is used for some of the breeding tanks, but those a scant in number. These tanks are usually dedicated to my "experiments".
So, if you intend on using tap water, check it and forget it. It is what it is. If certain readings are a tad high you may want to treat your water before adding it to your tank. I speak specifically of nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, choramine and chlorine, maybe pH if it is too high or low. Some of those you definitely do not want in your drinking water, let alone your tanks. But, generally, it is what it is. I have a friend that has tap water pH of 8.2. He now keeps African Rift Lake cichlids. Perfect.
Use a liquid reactive test kit and not test strips. More accurate that way.
Is Distilled water buyable, or do you have to have some contraption to make it? (yet another stupid question aye?)
You should be able to purchase it.
A thought just crossed my mind 5 minutes ago. I remembered how my dad was boasting to me how he had just installed some special, whoopdy-doo filter system(drinking water) about 2 years ago. It just crossed my mind tonight and I went upstairs to check what type of system it was, and low and behold!, it's a reverse osmosis system...
This makes my life a whole lot easier (on the wallet too!)
:thankyou: for your help, Much appreciated! :yourock:
BTW i love the image of the fish for your display.(correct me if im wrong but is that a species of cichlid)
In general GH and KH are irrelevant unless you are keeping snails or you are injecting CO2. Other than that it really doesn't matter too much.
As for cycling, temperature will have a direct influence on how fast you cycle your tank to a heater is needed to speed it up and a flilter is needed to provide surface area for bacteria and to airate the water, again for optimul growing conditions for bacteria.
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