Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/)
-   Freshwater and Tropical Fish (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-tropical-fish/)
-   -   Argentine sword turns white and dieing (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-tropical-fish/argentine-sword-turns-white-dieing-123080/)

Bill1366 12-19-2012 05:50 AM

Argentine sword turns white and dieing
 
I just set up a 100G freshwater tank with overflow and wet/dry filter system plus a canister filter. The substrate is broken coroal. I don't have any fish yet. I started with some plants to start the cycle. I bought An Argentine sword with roots from Petco. It was about 8" high with all green leaves. I placed it it in tank with roots under substrates. After about a week. leaves start turning white and dieing. I have 2 of 20W 5,500K fluorescent light on the top of tank. Is it because low light?
I will have 2 of 65W 10,000K T8 light tubes. Will that be helpful?
The tank condition is following:
Temp - 75F
PH - 7.8
KH - 105 gm/L
GH - 130
NH3- - <0.3

Can anyone hlep me on this?

Bill

GwenInNM 12-21-2012 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill1366 (Post 1354428)
I just set up a 100G freshwater tank with overflow and wet/dry filter system plus a canister filter. The substrate is broken coroal. I don't have any fish yet. I started with some plants to start the cycle. I bought An Argentine sword with roots from Petco. It was about 8" high with all green leaves. I placed it it in tank with roots under substrates. After about a week. leaves start turning white and dieing. I have 2 of 20W 5,500K fluorescent light on the top of tank. Is it because low light?
I will have 2 of 65W 10,000K T8 light tubes. Will that be helpful?
The tank condition is following:
Temp - 75F
PH - 7.8
KH - 105 gm/L
GH - 130
NH3- - <0.3

Can anyone hlep me on this?

Bill

My understanding of Swords is they don't require much light. Hopefully someone with more knowledge of that lighting over 100gallons will weigh in :)

Gwen

Byron 12-21-2012 04:36 PM

Welcome to Tropical Fish Keeping forum.:cheers:

If I am understanding correctly, you now have just two 20w [presumably 24-inch?] T8 fluorescent tubes over a 100g tank, which I would assume to be 2 feet in depth (vertical) and either 5 or 6 feet in length. If correct, this is insufficient for almost any plants, so this may well be a main cause, given the quick degeneration of the sword plant.

Nutrients will be another, though secondary in this case; are you using any fertilizers?

On the proposed light, do you really mean T8? I'm not aware of T8 tubes at 65w--or is this the total of two tubes? In which case presumably two 48-inch T8 tubes which would be 32 to 40w each, depending upon manufacturer and type. This will work if the tank is no longer than 5 feet and no deeper than 2 feet; I have this exact light over my 5-foot 115g tank and my swords are thriving.

Aside from this, the broken coral substrate may be a concern. What species of fish are intended for this tank? Where I'm going here, is that soft water fish will not appreciate increased hardness in the water, as coral will create. If on the other hand you have hard water fish, like livebearers, rift lake cichlids, etc, this will not be an issue. The broken coral may be a problem for substrate fish, depending upon the size and sharpness.

The GH at 130ppm [= 7 dGH] is ideal for live plants and soft water fish, and I assume this reading is the source (tap) water?

Byron.

Bill1366 12-21-2012 08:05 PM

Thanks for Byron's help.
I remeasured my tank and tubes. They are:
The tank is 5 feet long, 22" vertical deep, and 17" wide.
Light (1) - 20W floursant light tube - 1.5" diameter, 24" long, 5,500K, and made by Corallife
Light (2) - 65W 10,000k, white power compact bulb, 21", made by Coralife (I mistaken them to T8 tubes). They are kind of dual tubes on one set of straight pin fixture marked 65W.

I have had my Argentine Sword under 2 of Light (1) - 20W floursant light, 12 hours, for about 10 days; then. I see white and die leaves. I just added 2 of Light (2) - 65W compact tubes 2 days ago.
I use timers to have all Light (1) and (2) for 8 hours and 2 hours of Light (1) only before and after the 8 hours strong light. Is it a good setting?

I have had some Egeria Densa in my tank too. I let them float on water. In the 10 days of Light (1), some leaves turned brown and die, but they grew some new leaves and roots too. Can I fix them on my substrate instead of floating? If I fis them on substrate, should I put the root under my substrate?
By the way, I have not add any nutrition for plants in my tank. I have only on Argentine sword and about 10 strips(~6" long) of Egeria Dnesa now.

I am little confuse of Byron's comments about the hardness of water. I have broken coral as substrate and suppose to be hard water and OK for hard water fish. However, my GH is aobut 7dGH, and Byron said it is ideal for soft water fish. By the way, I re-measure my GH. It is 8dGH now. Yes. the source is tap water.

I will have fish which happy in the condition of my tank. I plan to start with some easy fish. What kind of substrate fish will be OK for my coral substrate?

Byron 12-21-2012 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill1366 (Post 1357837)
Thanks for Byron's help.
I remeasured my tank and tubes. They are:
The tank is 5 feet long, 22" vertical deep, and 17" wide.
Light (1) - 20W floursant light tube - 1.5" diameter, 24" long, 5,500K, and made by Corallife
Light (2) - 65W 10,000k, white power compact bulb, 21", made by Coralife (I mistaken them to T8 tubes). They are kind of dual tubes on one set of straight pin fixture marked 65W.

I have had my Argentine Sword under 2 of Light (1) - 20W floursant light, 12 hours, for about 10 days; then. I see white and die leaves. I just added 2 of Light (2) - 65W compact tubes 2 days ago.
I use timers to have all Light (1) and (2) for 8 hours and 2 hours of Light (1) only before and after the 8 hours strong light. Is it a good setting?

I have had some Egeria Densa in my tank too. I let them float on water. In the 10 days of Light (1), some leaves turned brown and die, but they grew some new leaves and roots too. Can I fix them on my substrate instead of floating? If I fis them on substrate, should I put the root under my substrate?
By the way, I have not add any nutrition for plants in my tank. I have only on Argentine sword and about 10 strips(~6" long) of Egeria Dnesa now.

I am little confuse of Byron's comments about the hardness of water. I have broken coral as substrate and suppose to be hard water and OK for hard water fish. However, my GH is aobut 7dGH, and Byron said it is ideal for soft water fish. By the way, I re-measure my GH. It is 8dGH now. Yes. the source is tap water.

I will have fish which happy in the condition of my tank. I plan to start with some easy fish. What kind of substrate fish will be OK for my coral substrate?

First on the light. The 24-inch tubes were not sufficient as I surmised. The second light (2) might be fine as far as intensity, but this is lacking in the red area of the spectrum and this is needed. The "K" is the Kelvin rating which is the colour temperature of the light, and the higher the number the "cooler" with more blue and less red, while the lower the number the "warmer" with more red and less blue. 6000K is about mid-day sun, and plants tend to grow best under light between 6000K and 7000K. Most of us follow the "daylight" tube type with 6500K. I don't know this particular light and will have to look it up, which I can't just now, but even when I do I might not be able to offer much. We have some other members here with more knowledge of light that may see this thread and comment. so I'll move on.

Fertilizer. Plants need food, and swords are heavy feeders. And stem plants being fast growing naturally need good nutrition too. A liquid comprehensive supplement is the first thing to add, always, as it provides nutrients to all types of plants. My choice is Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, but another much the same is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. If you get either, make sure they are exactly the name I gave, as these manufacturers make several different products under these lines. One dose a week will likely suffice, and you can increase this to twice weekly with more plants.

Substrate tabs are good with swords, and Seachem make one called Flourish Tabs. You could get this but use the afore-mentioned liquid either way.

Yes, you can plant the Egeria densa stems. We have this plant in our profiles, click the shaded name.

To the GH. Your tap water at 7 dGH is soft. Soft water fish will be ideal in this, as I previously mentioned. The coral substrate is going to add calcium to the water, and this will increase as it goes along. It may or may not reach a point of being good for hard water fish. But first decide which fish you would like to have, and then consider how to provide the best water. In your enviable position you can go either way, though frankly it may take more hardening if you decide on hard water fish like livebearers or rift lake cichlids. But as you seem to be going in the plant direction, my suggestion would be to change the substrate for something inert, like a sand, which will open up many options for fish and plants.

Byron.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:05 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2