Neon tetras with grayish/faded area on tail
I have pictures - I just don't know how to post them here yet.
1. Size: 55 gallon
2. Water: Use API freshwater master test kit
a. pH 7.0-7.2
b. Ammonia 0 ppm
c. Nitrite 0 ppm
d. Nitrate 40 ppm
e. I add the following to the water:
i. Water changes: Seachem Prime and Seachem Equilibrium
ii. CO2 injections 11 hr/day with light on. Started 5 weeks ago.
iii. Fertilizers: started 2 months ago Flourish Phosphorus, Flourish Nitrogen, and Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium.
Water Schedule + CO2
Day 1 5mL Phosphorus, 2.5mL Nitrogen
Day 2 5mL Comprehensive
Day 3 5mL Phosphorus, 2.5mL Nitrogen
Day 4 5mL Comprehensive
Day 5 5mL Phosphorus, 2.5mL Nitrogen
Day 6 5mL Comprehensive
Day 7 Water change (every 1 or 2 weeks): 10-15 gallons.
4. Aquarium has been set up for 2 years.
Species Number Size Time in aquarium Quarantine
Neon tetra 7 1 9 months Yes
Rummy nose tetra 7 1 6 months LFS*
Glolight tetra 2 1 9 months Yes
Otocinclus 5 1 3 months LFS*
Emerald Cory 2 3 1 week Yes
Unknown Cory 1 1.5 1 week Yes
Betta 3 female 1.5 18 months Yes
Platty 2 male 1.5 1 week Yes
Rosy Barbs 4 male 2 4 months LFS*
Pearl Gourami 1 male 3-4 18 months LFS*
Penguin pencil fish 10 1 2 months LFS*
*My LFS builds its reputation on quarantining all fish before bringing them out front to sell. I did not quarantine these fish; they were quarantined by the LFS.
6. Quarantine see chart above.
7. Current tank water temp: 79 F
8. I have live plants in the tank.
9. Filter: Eheim Classic 2217. Filter media: Eheim Substrat Pro, Eheim Mech, white filter pad, coarse blue filter pad. I clean the filter every 3 months rinse the media with tank water, clear algae and debris from tubing and rinse the filter in tank water. I am not sure what is meant by power capacity manufactures stated capacity or is there a way to measure that at home? Eheim states:
Tank Size 159 gallons/
Pump Output 263 gph
Filter Circulation 208 gph
Filter Volume 1-1/2 gallons
Power Consumption 20 Watts
Filter Dimensions 205 mm x 400 mm
10. Other Equipment:
a. CO2 injection started 5 weeks ago
b. CO2 indicator with indicator solution
d. Not equipment, but possibly relevant I have a large piece of driftwood and the substrate is Seachem Flourite.
11. Lighting: Run 36 double Hagen Eco T5-HO sitting 4 inches above the water. The light is on a timer and is on from 10am -9pm (11hrs/day). The tank is 10 feet from a north-facing window and we are at the bottom of a very steep and treed hillside and get very little light. 2 months ago we set up a 4 bulb 48 T5-HO right next to the aquarium for our orchids.
12. Water changes:
a. Last changed: last night, 15 gallons.
b. Frequency of changes: every 1-2 weeks
c. I vacuum the substrate.
a. New Life Spectrum Small Fish Formula 2x day (before work and before bed)
b. Hikari sinking wafers for the corys and otos, due to excited bettas and tetras I feed after the light has gone off and spread out the food. I have two types of wafers and rotate them daily.
i. Bottom Feeders: spirulina, silkworm and krill. 3-5 small pellets scattered throughout the tank every other night.
ii. Algae Eaters: pure-cultured spirulina. ½ - 1 large pellet broken up into 3-8 pieces and scattered throughout the tank every other night.
14. What unusual signs have you observed in your fish? The coloration is grayish/faded between the dorsal fin and tail on 4 of my neons. It looks like fungus to me, but I really have no idea what fungus looks like in fish. They appear to be acting normal and eating.
15. Treatments tried: I have not treated these guys yet. I brought pictures to my LFS and they told me to dose them with API Furan-2. I asked if they thought it was neon tetra disease and they said no.
16. My plan is: to see what you guys think it is and recommend.
I set up a 10 gallon tank last night with 2/3 tank water, 1/3 new water. I have an Aqua Clear 20 running on it with a sponge and a bit of substrat pro from the 55 gallons filter. The temperature is 79 F. I will go ahead and put the effected neons into the hospital tank (or should I put all of the neons in just to be safe?) and start treating with API Furan-2 later tonight if no one has any better ideas.
From what I have read about neon tetras is it prob neon tetra disease. Such an original name, isnt it?
eon tetra disease is un-curable, so isolate the infected fish as soon as you can. Once they appear uncomfortable you can euthanize them with clove oil.
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