lighting for my tank
i'm currently in the process of planning my second fishtank - a 67 gallon tank (43 x 20 x 18 inches, circa - i used an online measurements' converter *lol*).
today i performed a "is the tank leaking?" test, and i'm happy to report that the answer is "NO".
i'm going to keep a group of chocolate gourami in the tank, and now i'm doing some research on what kind of lighting they would prefer (watt- and kelvin-wise, that is).
what numbers should i be looking for?
i'm of course going to keep the tank heavily planted, so the plants will bring a lot of the "dim lighting" the chocs desire.
any advice on the subject of lighting would be *very* welcome!
not knowing what is available in Sweden, what I would choose for such a set-up from what is available here would be a dual 36" tube T8 or T5 (not High Output), 25 and 21 watts per bulb, respectively
Kelvin relates to appearance, which relates to spectral output, most around here recommend around 6500, which is good for plants and provides fairly natural appearance
would also suggest lots of floating plants for the gourami
I concur with Quantum. I had the two closely-related species of Chocolate Gourami [see our profile for photos, click the shaded name] in my 70g and they spawned often. Light was two 48-inch T8 6500K tubes, 8 hours a day. But I had a very thick cover of floating plants, there was absolutely no open surface. Photo below is of this tank. This is exactly the sort of aquascape you need for these gourami. The rasbora [Trigonostigma hengeli in this case] are good tankmates. I also had several sparkling gourami that also spawned often. Some fry from both the chocs and the sparklers survived due to the thick plant cover.
thankyou both for taking the time to offer your experience to give me advice!
i am of course going to spend a lot of time on the aquascaping part of this my new fishtank project - i'm going to a members' meeting at the nearest aquaristic society this wednesday (i haven't been there for a while, so it'll be good to see everybody again! :-)), and one of the members is a dutch (sic!) guy who's VERY knowledgeable when it comes to aquatic plants - in fact, i don't think he keeps any fish, because he's "only" interested in the plants!
i'm hoping to be able to buy most of my plants from him.
as for the lighting: i've looked online at the various "fishtank stuff" webshops in sweden, and it seems that there are VERY few t5 lights and holders (forgive me for not knowing enough "aquarium english") that are below 30 watts, while being of the length i need.
maybe i could have just ONE tube with around 40 watts.?
i *do* of course want what's best for the chocs i'm going to be bringing home - i want them to be healthy, happy and absolutely GORGEOUS (in that order! :lol:)!
If you go with T8, which is basically the "standard" fluorescent tube lighting, I would get a fixture holding two 48-inch tubes. That's what I have over the tank in the photo. This is sufficient without being too much. If on the other hand you get T5 fixture, you have a choice depending what tubes you can get. A single-tube 48-inch T5 HO (= high output, referring to the intensity) would be sufficient; but two HO tubes would be too much, about 1.5 times more than two T8 tubes. But if you can get NO (= normal output) tubes, two will work as that would be about equal to the twin T8.
For any of the above, the spectrum must then be considered. And here 6500K is a good choice. The K refers to Kelvin, which is the colour temperature of the light. It has nothing to do with intensity as such.
Hope this helps a bit.
seems like the available T5s are HO (if they are about 1 watt per 2.5 cm, it is HO), but yes I agree one T5HO across the length of the tank would be good, you will be somewhat limited in the plants you can keep and your Dutch friend might scoff at such 'low' light, but it sounds as though he is interested in growing plants and you want to keep sensitive little fish so the needs are different
Byron, what plants do you have down below in that tank? I see some swords and crypts.
In my 125 with dual T8's if I let the top grow over with floating plants the bottom plants particularly the pygmy chain sword look like death.
I had trouble with this tank. The Wisteria which was at its peak when the photo was taken began to fail, I think from a combo of insufficient GH [I was not using Equilibrium then] and perhaps light. A lot of the floating plant in there was the Wisteria, which initially grew from the substrate and then across the top, which is why I think the GH probably played more of a role in its demise. It was only getting the calcium and magnesium from Flourish Comp which is minimal.
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