Pumps for sump and refugium
I was wondering what the output for these two pumps should be.
The aquarium will be 100-120 gallons, with drilled holes and plumbing that goes to sump and refugium. 2 holes for each of these.
And then 1 hole return from sump and 1 hole return from refugium.
They'll be bellow the main tank so its an additional 2 feet? of Head on the pumps.
So my questions here are:
How good is the idea to have 4 output holes and 2 in?
What size the wholes should be?
What the output of the return pumps shoule be?
Edit: Forgot to mention that I will have 3 600 gph powerheads for circulation, and that I'm going ot have an Aquamedic 1000 protein skimmer in-sump!
wanted to say welcome :) also expect answers a bit later since they go by american time :p
Not too sure I see the point to having 4 ouput holes. having seperate systems rigged like that will be very difficult. If the oulets are not perfectly matched to the flow of the pump, your fuge could drain out and the sump overflow, or vise versa. Best bet would be to have 2 outlets drain from 1" to either side of the sump system. On one side, the skimmer, on the other the Fuge. Have the return section with the pump in the center with one pump rated for about a bit less than the total flow capacity of the two overflows. eg; if both overflows can handle 700gph, then you will want a pump reted for about 1000-1200 gph at a 4' head. when you plumb the return, try to plumb the split from the pump to the 2 returns with a Y as opposed to a T, that way you have less head loss from the water trying to make a 90 degree turn.
Thank you for your reply.
Well you guys are experienced. Since I'm one step from ordering the grass for the aquarium I really have to think about the plumbing before actually buying anything.
So 4 holes are not needed, and having 2 seperate systems is going to be very difficult.And I need to match the overflow to the pump output at 4'head.Correct?
How can I measure the overflow?
I'm going to have buckleheads and strainers.But I'm not sure what size to choose.Flow is going to be affected by the size of the hole right?
If I m reading right you suggest they are 1 inche in diameter?
(sorry but where I live we use metrics and the single and double quotes of the inches confuse me)
It would be nice if someone with a 100 gallons tank and drilled holes could give some advice.
As for the sump and refugium this is my understanding of your suggestion:
This way I can avoid a 90 degrees turn since I can place the pump upright from the beggining.I'll probably have only one 90 degrees turn when the plumbing makes a turn to get in the main tank.(that will make it a 5 feet head?)
I really have no idea on what the flow to the sump/refugium will be so I can't choose a pump right now.
This is the site I'm going to order most of the equipment.Its the plumbing parts section.
If you can give me some suggestions on buckleheads and what flow to expect then I can make my choice on the right pump!
And how can I control the flow to and from the sump system. The main goal is to be sure that the sump wont overflow nor drain.(drain will kill the pump right?Can I use valves to control the flow from and to the sump//refugium? How will a valve, that reduces the flow from the return, affect the temperature of the water?
Thanks a lot!
PS: As for the bioballs I know they're not necessary but I guess as a newbie I'm going to have bubbles problem and since I 'll have to put something to stop those bubbles as might as well put bioballs.The bioballs I have in mind is a package with foam, carbon and ceramics. I've read that the second chanber is for chemical media.Do I need chemical media, other than carbon? I've also read that bioballs will collect debrites and increase nitrites, but I plan on cleaning them every other week along with the water changes.Feel free to make any suggestions!
Ok, essentially your drawing is correct, although there are a few suggestions for changes I would have you make. First, there is no need for the bioballs, the bubble traps should provide enough to stop the majority of the bubbles, If you really want to have the bioballs, I would recommend Live Rock rubble instead. Second, on the protien skimmer side of the system, you will want the bubble trap after the skimmer. The skimmer will also produce bubbles in the system (at least mine does).
So before I go too much further, let me ask a few questions of you. Are you building your own sump? Are you having one custom built? or are you planning on buying something already constructed?
For the tank, are you planning on purchasing a Reef Ready (predrilled) tank and if so, what brand, and what style overflows (corner mounted or back mounted)?
I can provide you a better idea on what pump would be appropriate with that info
Its a DIY project. I really don't mind buying a prepared tank, but I'm a DIY junkie! The feeling of I've done it on my own feeling of "proudness" once you're done.
Size will be
120 Gallon 48 1/2 x 24 1/4 x 25 1/2
But the water will be just 100 gallons.
I dont have a diamond drill or saw so I'm going to have the glass drilled.
From what I've read they suggest to have bottom glass tempered.Don't know if its necessary.
As for the plumbing it was suggested to be on the back of the tank(and have a blue background to hide the pipes) and to run down not vertically(because it causes more noise) but in an angle.
I'll take your advice on the sump and protein skimmer and avoid the bioballs also since you say the bubble traps are enough. I just read to many "Oh, my god bubbles!" newbie threads so I guessed its something I'm going to face as well.
Feel free to suggest any plumbing design for both the tank and the sump!
Its a 100 gallon which is going to be on a stand and I'll go for the largest sump I can keep under the tank.
New designs :D
Havent really decided on which one I'll follow.By the way the first baffles are bubble traps and will contain live rock rumble.
Dimensions are not scale.I'll try to make the return section as large as possible
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