will begin cycle end of this month - this is what i got
1x 42 gallon tank
50 pounds of live rock
bag of live sand (no idea quantity)
1x turboflotor blue 1000 (protein skimmer)
1x JAD Efu-40 exterior filter canister
2x 13watt white lights (have some other lighting too)
Now i`m going for a Fowlr. Maybe very few corals in the future. Heaters wont be needed for another year so i can get that later. chillers are not needed.
now i have the chance to get already salted R/o water. This is my only alternative currently to tap water. The water will come from a tank which is already set up and i`m not sure whether this is a bad or good thing. advice? I`m getting the live rock at the end of January ands tarting my cycle then.
Anyone to tell me what i`m lacking? or how to best maximise the products i have currently - thanks in advance
Re: will begin cycle end of this month - this is what i got
As for other equip you may need or have missed... the heater is going to be important to get right up front. Even provided your room temperature is warm enough to keep the tank within the right temp range, the problem is fluctuation. Unless your room is at a constant temp that never changes, the jumps in temp will affect your fish and can be deadly.
I'm still wondering about the water, and if you are planning to work with a source of premixed saltwater... what about freshwater when you need it? A saltwater tank is not going to use strictly saltwater, only during actual water changes. Between changes there will be evaporation, and while the water evaporates, the salt does not. Your new water will need to balance in spg/salinity according to what your tank needs at any given time. Even if doing water changes everytime there is evaporation, the spg/salinity of the new water will still not be able to match that of what's in the tank, or you will end up with too much salt. Always remember the need for both salt and freshwater for your tank and at any given time.
With that said, I didn't see a hydrometer or refractometer listed on your supply list. You can't keep a marine tank without one of the two. This is the only way to measure the amount of salt you are adding, and there is a specific range (1.023 - 1.025) that you will need to stay within. Your hydrometer is something that should be used before ever adding any water to the tank.
If money isn't an issue, a refractometer is much more accurate than the hydrometer, and they last forever if you take care of it. If you work with a hydrometer, find someone with a refractometer to calibrate it for you so you know its accurate. Because of they way they are made, most of them end up "off" and sometimes by a huge range. I have seen customers who's tanks crashed and they didn't discover until after they lost animals that their hyrdometer was off by enough to have over or under salted the water. One of them turned out to have brackish conditions in his tank of expensive and delicate fish/corals all because his hydrometer was inaccuate. SeaTest makes an awesome hydrometer, and is one of the most accurate I've ever been able to find anywhere.
thanks for the reply :)
The water is simply freshwater r/o with the salt added since its going to be my first setting up, but i think i confused myself as well as others.
I have a hydrometer just forgot to note that one down.
what about a powerhead? any good ones i should look out for?
also in the summer and winter the weather outside gets extremely hot - but my house is always heated or air conditioned and i`ve never needed a heater with my freshwater tank unless it was really cold nights at winter - which will be almost done by the time i start cycling. but better safe then sorry so i`ll get my hands on one of those too.
Then, as I said about the water.. just be sure you have access to RO water without the salt when you need it and you should be fine.
As for powerheads, there are a few that are good, but to tell you how many you'll need I cant do until I know what animals will be in there. Flow rates will differ some according to your selected inhabitants.
I have always had too luck with the Rios, my husband likes a few of the others. I can get some names from him tonight.
my choices are :
a few shrimp (fire and cleaner)
a couple gobys and a few blennies
and a firefish.
maybe - just maybe - a valentini
this is it so far - think the stock isrelatively good.
with the equipment i`m a bit more careful so i`ll probably order the powerhead if needed.
i always liked puffer fish, and in the pest i succesfully kept dwarf puffer fish (fresh water) for about 3 years. And i was only 14 :p so i`m really wanting a new puffer fish. He will be the last fish i add to the tank, and if he eats my shrimp, well heck thats what had to be done.
i chose a blue neon goby - as a cleaner
and still considering the blennie.
still trying to decide between a maroon clown and an ocellaris
btw betta, find any good powerheads?
alright - i have a new query
i can get fresh drinking water at $2 per 5 gallons
and i can get R/o water at 10$ per 5 gallons
does drinking water have any problems?
I'm not sure what each company uses to purify their water, but it isn't the same as RO, or it would be labeled RO water.
I will ask Rob tonight if he knows of anything else that I may have forgotten here.
well by asking questions at the LFS about their r/o water, its an actual reverse osmosis tank he has which uses in his tanks to keep coral alive. So far the person at my LFS (a new one i found) is really helpful and is actually trying to help me get this thing up and runnning properly. I told him, too about the drinking water and he said i would probably have to treat it with things like aquaton and nitrivec etc.
Will that however really help me in the long run if i want coral.? or should i just play it safe and go with the R/O ?
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