New tank (Big Pics) & Could always use advice
Hey Guys, I'm Andrew. I work at a fish store, and I have just started my first salt water tank. I know a good deal from work, but i mainly do freshwater stuff, so my salt water knowledge is lacking.
So as of today my tank is 7 days old and looking good! It is a ten gallon tank that I used to use for freshwater. I have a crappy top fin heater, an aqua-clear 30 filter, and korllia (sp?) nano power head, plus 10 lbs. live florida crushed coral, and 14 lbs. live rock.
I tested water about three days ago and most everything to worry about was at zero. I have 1 coral, a zoanthid?, that my boss said would be fine in the new tank, and I got it the day I had my water tested.
It is all shut up right now because I had just turned the light on.
so any tips are much appreciated. What I really want to know is should i make a sump/fuge for my tank. I was thinking just a little 2 1/2 gallon tank from work would work. I know it isn't really necessary, but it would be fun and add water volume...
The problem is that i don't want to spend much more $$ and the pumps would cost a bit. So my other plan would be to turn my hang on back filter into a mini fuge with live rock and some plant matter, I have heard that filter media needs to be washed daily and I dont feel like doing that so this would be a cool option. What do you guys think?
i dont know much about saltwater so i cant help you but i think the tank looks pretty good! :thumbsup:
Nice Hydor, and in a 10g no less. See folks it's not impossible....
'd lower those 2 large pieces of Fiji you have supported by the Tonga branching so they don't fall and crack the glass. Put the Tonga on top of the Fiji if space is limited.
Have fun with the new tank.
yep, completely possible, in fact Hydor nano rocks way better then anything else i've used. So i took out the sponge in my filter and put some live rock in, left in the carbon and the bacteria things, at least until I get a light for it, then i'll add some plant material.
Also I really need help with my zoo, it wasn't open when I took pics last night, then this morning after the light had been on for a few hours, a few where open, but looked sickly, and the rest are closed. then the power went out when I was at work to day. when I got home they were all closed. My boss said I should point my power-head at it. I did that, and they are still closed, so I will try and feed it, any tips???? Up-dates soon.
Honestly I think you'd have to leave the rock of zoos in your driveway out of the water for about 3 months to kill them. They are super hardy and may not be accustomed to "traveling" and being moved around. You might lose a few heads but some will remain. They reproduce like crazy. Give them time, could take as long as 2 weeks. I have a colony that stays open for about 2 days and then closes for 3 weeks. It's been that way for about a year.
Maybe you shouldn't stock anything, especially corals after only 7 days. :roll: Honestly, like it's the same concept as freshwater, but only needs to be followed more strictly.
Also, don't use the tonga to support the large pieces of rock, it looks awkward, and if the weight should ever shift and the large rocks fall, you're risking the lives of your livestock and potentially cracking the glass.
Nice chunk of zoos, and I also use the same powerhead, I love it. Also, what media have you got in the filter?
Now Matt here is where we get in trouble with the LFS again. This poster works in a shop and his boss sent him home with the coral after 7 days. I'm hoping the boss had the theory that since they used liverock and live sand that maybe the tank was somewhat cycled. Here we have another case where the LFS should have known better than to send the coral home to a new tank. This only enforces the behavior unto the employee and thus becomes the "standard" practice to send corals and fish along with a new tank sale. The real problem with this is that the coral is at the house now, now our members need to offer the best advice possible to help the acclimation of this new acquisition. I would recommend that no new corals or fish be added until the zoas open and then only after testing to see that the cycle is complete.
I find it mind boggling, and unfortunate (but not surprising, tbh) that 'the boss' allowed this to happen. You would think a manager would know the most and be the best person to give advice. Judging from a ton of posts that happen on this forum daily (literally), and from personal experience, _most_ (NOT all, make no mistake) fish store employees know jack s**t about fish. Well, that's not true, they know they live in water I suppose.
I'm sorry if I sound offensive but I just get really mad when I hear about these n00b errors made by alleged professionals (not you btw, you're still learning about SW, your boss is the idiot imo). ARGHHHH!!!
Yeah, I know, she isn't the main boss at my work though. The Polyps all opened again today, and I checked my water several times and it says 0 for everything bad really. Everything I ever read said wait for the tank to be fully cycled before adding anything. Hey, it couyld have turned out a lot worse really, the zoo's are fine and my tank is cycles fully now.
About the precariously placed LR, would adding another chunk cause any kind of spike?
In the Filter I have a kind of Sump/Fuge going, there is live rock, carbon, and bio max ceramic things... But now that everything is settled im adding a light to it then I will throw some chaeto in there, I think I will leave the carbon in there, or should I leave the sponge?
I read your post for your new tank. Did your torch coral die, or did you save it? Do you think I could handle one, in a while, light wise?
So I did a 25% water change today, and while I was in there I rearranged my live rock. Now it seem like I don't have enough, but I think that it might just be because it looks different, and I'm not used to it.
Little cave & flat spot, good for a chili in the distant future
Im going to frag a Zeina next time I'm at work, ill post pics when I bring it home.
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