Issues with Diseases, Stocking, Water and More. - Expert Help Needed.
Here are the current tanks that we will be dealing with throughout this thread:
Here are my...astonishing water parameters:
pH: 7.5 (High and Low)
gH: 18dGH (Hard Water)
Nitrate as N03 out of Tap:
33.8ppm (Lab Tested - Nitrate Ion Selective Electrode)
20ppm (LaMotte Kit)
40ppm - 60ppm (API Master Test Kit)
Nitrate as N03-N out of Tap:
7.68ppm (Lab Tested - Nitrate Ion Selective Electrode)
Requested Water Plant results for Tap Water - Water Plants report 5ppm out of source water. River water also measure 5ppm from the lab who tested my water.
As you can see the Nitrate is an issue. I still have not done anything about changing the water yet because of the other issues I am currently dealing with. Once all my fish are healthy I will slowly start to change the water parameters, so as not to shock them. The plan is to add 25% R.O. water with every water change in the two bigger tanks. R.O. water here isn't to expensive, but the LFS doesn't sell it. WalMart only sells drinkable R.O. water which I can buy at a decent price. Any more advice on this would be appreciated. I don't want to spend a lot of money and am looking for the cheapest method to solve this problem.
Here are the other more pressing issues.
The Male Molly in the 29 has this abnormal growth on his right side. It appears to be black and underneath the scales. Here is a video where you can see what I am talking about. You can see it at about 0:24 into the video, it was taken about a week ago.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IuE-BE4Tyg]Molly and 29 Update - YouTube[/ame]
The snails I speak about in those videos have since been active and moving fine. The dead ones have been eaten by the Kribensis, she is ruthless.
The tank has previously been treated with Levamisole HCl and Salts for Camallanus. This tank has also been and is currently being treated with API General Cure which contains the following chemicals: Metronidazole and Praziquantel.
What is that growth and how can I treat it. These are the medications I currently have available:
I was suggested to use the Tetracycline Hydrochloride along with the Minocycline. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions? When to use it, considering I am currently treating with the Metronidazole and Praziquantel, 48 hours left of treatment.
The Bolivian Rams when I got them didn't look too healthy, since then two have started eating and the third is still palish and not eating as well. He is also still hiding.
Today I noticed the still sickly Bolivian Ram pooping stringy white poop.
This tank has been treated with Metronidazole and Praziquantel about one week ago. Should I try another treatment or should I quarantine this fish and do a treatment on that one fish? Should I treat the entire tank? How long should I wait?
Also, if I quarantine the Bolivian Ram, I would have to move everything out of the 10 gallon tank. The 1.75 is not ready unless I want to do daily water changes, which I don't mind. Any suggestions?
If I move the 10 or so platy fry into the 20 gallon and the gourami into the 29 to free up the 10 gallon tank for quarantine, would the 10 fry over load the bio load in that tank? I will be removing a bolivian ram when I do so.
If I do this, the gourami would be in the same tank as the kribensis...which is not really ideal.
Here is a video of when I first got them 3 weeks ago just for comparison, the one that is now pale is more pale than they look in this video:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV9oe-R5aSo]New Bolivian Rams - YouTube[/ame]
Here is a video of the Bolivian Rams about a week ago so you can see them. The third one that is pale is hiding and is not shown in this video:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8qShRd0kLk]20 Gallon - Bolivian Rams Update - YouTube[/ame]
I originally treated the 20 gallon tank with the API General Cure because the Rams had that sunken stomach. I wanted to make sure they were safe. Two have made it through fine and are getting fatter.
I have already started going 10% R.O. water changes in the 20 gallon where the Rams are just to comfort them, but I do not yet have a gH and kH test kit so I can't take a reading yet. I will need to purchase one soon so I can keep track of where my water parameters are in there.
I think I covered everything but if I missed anything please ask. The only tank I have that I didn't mention is my betta 5 gallon tank but that tank is not going to be messed with. Its finished and doing great. I listed the 29, 20, 10 and the 1.75 gallon tanks as references to see what I am working with and the possibilities of moving the stock and everything.
Any help and all advice is appreciated.
Oh, Termie. . . I'm so sorry you're having such troubles. I REALLY hope someone out there will be able to help out. . .
AbbeysDad has high nitrates in his tap water and posted his remedy some time back; PM him and he should have some advice on this issue.
The disease issues I will not guess at. Without knowing fairly exactly what the issue is, using medications can make things worse. If no one comes along on this issue, PM bettababy.
Nothing to do with fish but that high nitrate isn't even safe for people to drink, especially young children. :| This is city water? Gosh, shocking.
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Yep, horrible. Just like how nitrate (and nitrite/ammonia) make it hard for fish to transport oxygen in their blood, the same for people.. Young babies are really vulnerable to nitrate, it's called blue baby syndrome.
Anyways, a complaint should be made to the city, and any other health authorities you have in the states. If it's well water then you have to deal with it yourself, but the city should take better care of it's water supply.
I can only imagine it's from manure/mine runoff into the water, and there are ways to filter it out.
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Oh my goodness. It sounds like you've got some serious issues with your water. I hope you can get it fixed.
I think I have an answer for what is growing on your male molly. It looks like lymphocystis (sometimes called cauliflower disease), a viral infection that is typically nonfatal. I had a betta that came down with this a few months ago. Since it's very difficult to the see the image on the video, I encourage you to look up images of fish with lympho infections and compare that to your fish.
Looking into seeing how much a home system is.
I'm coordinating with a few local organizations in order to address the problem to the community.
I think that this "growth" looks something like this (I drew this on a sticky note):
If you are right, wouldn't it do what I described and give the fish Dropsy every so often? And if so, would the Tetracycline Hydrochloride take care of it?
Most of the images I found of lympho infections were pretty bad. It is possible that he could have a parasite infection, but you are treating the tank with prazi (a strong anti-parasitic) and you should have seen some reduction. Attached is an image of my betta's lympho infection as a comparison. It wasn't a bad case
Lympho won't outright kill the fish. It will weaken the fish and allow other opportunistic infections like fungus or parasites to creep in. As dropsy is thought to be a bacterial infection, then yes, your fish could come down with dropsy every once in a while. As for a cure for dropsy, I'm not too sure. I've never dealt with it, and it seems like every aquarist has their own cure for it. If something has worked for you before, try it again.
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