Sluggish fish helpp
One of my african freshwater fish, is acting very sluggish, and almost sick like. I looked for the different symptoms of sicknesses, but the fish doesnt seem to have the salt like stuff on her scales, nor frayed fins, and she isn't swimming upside down a whole lot. Every now and then she will, but it's not that common. Is she sick and i can't find the treatment?? She acts very sluggish and tired, she hasn't been eating the food i'm giving them(there are two other fish) and she seems like she's a zombie almost. I'm really worried but I don't really know what to do. I just cleaned their tank today, i let it oxidize with the air pump for at least 20 minutes before i put them back in, and yes the water temperature was stable, so i know that can't be it. If anyone knows, I'd really appreciate it. If you need a picture of the fish email me and i'll send you one. My email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Sounds like you need to give lots more info. When you say you let the water oxidize, do you not use a water conditioner? Are you removing your fish each time you do a water change? What are your parameters of the water? Nitrate levels? Have you checked for ammonia? nitrites? What temperature do you keep your fish at? How long have you had this fish?
I don't have a water conditioner let alone know what that even is, Yes I remove the fish every time, as for parameters i really have no idea, and as for nitrate and ammonia, I don't have any ph things to test for that. When I got this tank, I wasn't told anything about testing water and etc so if there's something I need, please tell me, because i'm a begginer on this, and will take all the help I can get. Ive had these fish for about 4months now, but only one of them is being sluggish, my blue johanni cichlid. And my temperature stays around 75 degress F.
Well, your temperature isn't bad, though you could raise it to 77-78. Go to a fish/pet store and buy a nitrate (nitrAte) liquid test kit by API. Make sure you get the liquid, as it's more accurate than the strips. You may want to get the ammonia kit too. If you are over feeding you could be getting ammonia spikes (waste not being taken care of fast enough from good bacteria you should have in the tank). If you aren't using a water conditioner, you are likely exposing the fish to chemicals that are in the water, (chlorine). Prime is the best product for this for many reasons. Get some Prime, and some test kits and go from there.
Also, taking your fish out each time is exposing them to lots of stress. Do 50% water changes each week, without taking your fish out. Only rinse out your filter media with "old" tank water.
I would up the temperature to 78F and purchase the API Master test kit plus the test kits for GH (General Hardness) and KH (Carbonate Hardness). That is the only way to know exactly what is going on in the tank.
You mentioned that "she" is not eating, do you have any males along with her? It is possible that she may be pregnant, pregnant female cichlids as they are mouthbrooders will not eat the whole time they are holding babies, usually 18-20 days.
What size is the tank in question and what exactly do you have as tank mates with the Johanni?
You can upload pictures directly to this site, click on "go advanced", on the top row is a paperclip icon, click on that and it will open another window, browse to where the picture is stored and upload it, WAIT for it to upload before closing the window.
Removing fish and cleaning the whole tank is not recommended, one it stresses the fish and cichlids need a lot of filtration and water changes regularly at least 50-60% a week or more. Can you describe in detail how you go about cleaning the tank?
Without information on water parameters it is impossible to get an idea of what is going on in your tank.
When refilling with tap water, a water conditioner as mentioned Prime being a widely used one, must be used unless the water is left to sit in another container NOT the tank for at least 24 hours prior to it going into the tank. Tap water contains all kinds of heavy metals / chemicals which need to be eradicated prior to it being used in the tank.
What filtration do you have on the tank, you NEED at least 10-15 or more times the tank volume in filtration per hour, so for example a 55g tank needs filters capable of turning at least 550gph.
The Blue Johanni Died. I found out, that my other two fish had started ganging up on her, which they are all females and different species, and they had eaten her fins down to almost nothing, and bloodied her scales. I'm probably not going to get another one to replace her, because the main one that was terrorizing her was my Malawi Golden Cichlid. I had put her in a baby like net thing that was still in the same area as my tank, but it was too late by then. She wasn't showing any signs of being attacked until I woke this morning. I will look into all of those things that you guys recommended for me, and I have photos of the tank on my profile as well as the fish themselves.
And I have a tank filtration system that does 10-20 gallon tanks and mine is a 20 gallon tank, so that should be fine. And I don't have city water, its actually well water, and I put one or two drops of some bacteria supplement just yesterday, and no more since then, to help the bacteria needed. When I clean the tank, I take out a little over half of the water, then take the fish out and put them into a large bowl or pot for the moment, I go outside with the remainder, and rinse the rock out throughout until the water is clear and there is no discoloration to it.
The Brooks Hotel - 20 gallon Freshwater fish tank
That's the link to my fish tank.
OK, several things need mentioning here that unfortunately are all going to sound bad.
1) Do you have a test kit for your water parameters, If you do, I suggest you test the well water for Nitrates as many well tend to have very high levels of nitrates.
2)Adding a bacteria supplement with fish in the tank, can lead to a mini cycle which is going to be extremely bad for the fish, ANY ammonia / Nitrite is very dangerous to fish and can kill them quickly.
3) Malawi Golden Cichlid is commonly known as an Auratus, these fish are extremely aggressive and should not be kept by anyone just starting out with Africans, they need large tanks and only 1 male to several females. Females are just as aggressive as males and can easily take over a tank even as big as 75g. Females will also fight to death until the dominant one is left, this can happen overnight or in space of a few minutes if these fish decide to turn on their aggression. I have seen it happen to an entire tank overnight with a Male Auratus being the only one left swimming, this was in a 90g tank with some bigger fish than it.
4) Your tank is simply not big enough to keep ANY African Cichlids in except small shell dwellers from Lake Tanganyika. The absolute bare minimum for keeping African Cichlids is 55g. Even frys need a big tank of 30g+
5) When doing a water change, NEVER EVER, wash the whole tank, you are killing all the good bacteria as soon as you wash the substrate. Many good bacteria live in the substrate as well as on rocks and decorations and primarily in the filter. You can do a 70% water change but vacuum the gravel to get uneaten food and poop up, DO NOT wash it. This practice must stop immediately if you want to prevent more fish deaths. Each time you wash the gravel the tank is going to start a cycle and with small tank this can be lethal overnight to the fish in the tank.
We all have to start somewhere and we will help as much as we can, am sorry for you loss :-(
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:03 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.