Plants and Algae
I am new to the hobby but have enjoyed aquariums for years. I know I made a mistake and purchased my plants too early but I am now having a Brown Algae problem. Yes, the tank is a brand new frewshwater tank and is on the sixth week. I am aware that the problem should go away shortly. However, I was told to fertilize my plants, 1 lutea and 1 Bronze Wendtii, and I have been using API Leaf Zone to do this.
I have gathered that algae is a signal that I have too much nutrients in my tank and my lighting needs adjusted. With this said, do I STILL need to fertilize my plants and if so with what?
I am seeking to have a lush aquarium with a few unique fish. :lol:
Ammonia reads 0
PH: OVer 7.6 <---I am working on bringing it down.
Nitrates: Minimal, not sure of the exact ppm
As mentioned by Stormfish, brown algae, actually diatoms, are normal in most new tanks (= during the first 2-3 months). Keep it off plant leaves, otherwise not a problem. Not really related to light or nutrients in this situation.
You might want to consider a different fertilizer. LeafZone is only iron and potassium, two of 17 nutrients aquatic plants require. The others may or may not be present in sufficient quantity, depending upon your aquarium, tap water, fish load, etc. Also, light has to balance. I can expand on this if asked.
I am concerned over the pH lowering attempts, this can be detrimental to fish depending how it is being attempted. Can you explain? And, what is the GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) of your source (presumably tap) water? These are related to the pH.
Agreed on the PH lowering- 99.9% of the time, it's much better to just let the fish acclimate to the higher PH.
PH- I had no idea such tests existed, KH and GH?? I have no idea. I do know that our water is very hard here in this part of the state. I have a reading of 7.8-8.0 ppm when taken from the tap. I have tried pouring in PH Down and later discovered that the chemical had no effect. The fish seemed a bit stressed so I stopped that treatment. I then converted to using a dry salt like substance called Acid Buffer made by Seachem. I pour just a few grams in each day, I have been using this product for four days and have had a small fluctuation in my PH.
I would rather leave the PH alone but was under the impression that the fish were in distress if the PH was not at or near 7 ppm.
Byron- YES! I would LOVE to know more about the proper fertilizer balances. THANK you so very much!!
All fish have a preferred GH and pH range at which their internal physiology, called the homeostasis, operates at its best and most effective. So a pH of 7 is not the aim, but a pH closer to the fish's requirement. There is some adaptability in some fish. If you know what fish you'd like to have, check their profiles (second tab from the left in the blue bar across the top of the page), all this data is included for each species. It is easier to select fish suited to your source water than it is to adjust that water to suit sensitive species, though this is possible.
I do have six fish. I began the cycle, over six weeks ago with three Black Widow Tetras and 3 cherry Barbs. A Mystery Snail was added at about the fifth week. All fish are doing well, although the Tetras seem to loose color at times.
Thanks again! :)
What is the fluoride level of the City's drinking water?
The City's drinking water contains approximately 0.3mg/L (PPM) of naturally occurring fluoride.
What is the hardness of the City's drinking water?
The average hardness of the City's drinking water is 7.0 grains per gallon (108 mg/L as Calcium Carbonate).
How much sodium is in the City's drinking water?
The City's drinking water contains from 80-100 mg/L (PPM) of sodium
I hope this helps..
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