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Starting Bio-Cube 29G! Advice?

28K views 113 replies 3 participants last post by  Reefing Madness 
#1 ·
I recently bought a 29G Oceanic Bio-Cube 29G Aquarium, and I plan to start it up tuesday which is my next day off. I have expressed my interest in starting a Marine aquarium on this forum before, and everyone ones quite helpful.. Basically I'm listing what I've "decided" on and maybe some people can share experiences and things of that nature.

I'm having a LFS make me a custom stand out of oak wood. I'd like to have a refugium of some sort with just to have some livesand, live rock rubble, and chaeto algae. If I let that build up pods for about 8 months then would adding a mandarin be acceptable? I've seen people have success with them in nano reefs, but the safety of the fish comes first.

For sand I'm curious, My brother has a 29 biocube also and hes using natures ocean bio-activ live aragonite sand and hasnt had any complaints but I like the look of natures ocean marine white sand. Its not live sand so would the live rock I add get the bacteria to the sand to make it live?

I'm planning on using Pukani Rock that a local fish store stocks, but I'm having mixed thoughts. Should I buy it from the LFS already cured or Should I order Dry Rock from BRS?

Also I bought some products that my brother recommended I put in when I start the tank.( Kent Strontium & Molybdenum, Kent Essential Elements, Kent Coral-vite, Seachem Reef Complete, Instant Ocean Bio-Spira) Well the 1st 4 I mentioned were left in the trunk of my car for like a week, does it matter?

Just looking for guidance so I do this right the first time :roll:
 
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#2 ·
I recently bought a 29G Oceanic Bio-Cube 29G Aquarium, and I plan to start it up tuesday which is my next day off. I have expressed my interest in starting a Marine aquarium on this forum before, and everyone ones quite helpful.. Basically I'm listing what I've "decided" on and maybe some people can share experiences and things of that nature.

I'm having a LFS make me a custom stand out of oak wood. I'd like to have a refugium of some sort with just to have some livesand, live rock rubble, and chaeto algae. If I let that build up pods for about 8 months then would adding a mandarin be acceptable? I've seen people have success with them in nano reefs, but the safety of the fish comes first.
Yup, you should be ok at that point. You can also buy pods to dose in the tank.

For sand I'm curious, My brother has a 29 biocube also and hes using natures ocean bio-activ live aragonite sand and hasnt had any complaints but I like the look of natures ocean marine white sand. Its not live sand so would the live rock I add get the bacteria to the sand to make it live?
Substrate is of choice. It will get bio life, no worries. If you have really high flow the sand tends to blow a bit more.

I'm planning on using Pukani Rock that a local fish store stocks, but I'm having mixed thoughts. Should I buy it from the LFS already cured or Should I order Dry Rock from BRS?
Pukani is some really good stuff, good choice. People buy dry rock instead of Live Rock because they dont' want all the risky hitchhickers that come with it. Buying Fully Cure Live Rock will knock your cycle down to one week instead of 4-6 weeks.

Also I bought some products that my brother recommended I put in when I start the tank.( Kent Strontium & Molybdenum, Kent Essential Elements, Kent Coral-vite, Seachem Reef Complete, Instant Ocean Bio-Spira) Well the 1st 4 I mentioned were left in the trunk of my car for like a week, does it matter?
When you start, there is no need to add anything. Test your water in the beginning for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and Salinity. Once cycle is complete test for those + Magnesium, ALK, CA, and PH. Then worry about what you need to dose to keep them where they need to be. All you need is in the Salt to begin with.

Just looking for guidance so I do this right the first time :roll:
:-D
 
#3 ·
I recently bought a 29G Oceanic Bio-Cube 29G Aquarium, and I plan to start it up tuesday which is my next day off. I have expressed my interest in starting a Marine aquarium on this forum before, and everyone ones quite helpful.. Basically I'm listing what I've "decided" on and maybe some people can share experiences and things of that nature.

I'm having a LFS make me a custom stand out of oak wood. I'd like to have a refugium of some sort with just to have some livesand, live rock rubble, and chaeto algae. If I let that build up pods for about 8 months then would adding a mandarin be acceptable? I've seen people have success with them in nano reefs, but the safety of the fish comes first.
Yup, you should be ok at that point. You can also buy pods to dose in the tank.

For sand I'm curious, My brother has a 29 biocube also and hes using natures ocean bio-activ live aragonite sand and hasnt had any complaints but I like the look of natures ocean marine white sand. Its not live sand so would the live rock I add get the bacteria to the sand to make it live?
Substrate is of choice. It will get bio life, no worries. If you have really high flow the sand tends to blow a bit more.

I'm planning on using Pukani Rock that a local fish store stocks, but I'm having mixed thoughts. Should I buy it from the LFS already cured or Should I order Dry Rock from BRS?
Pukani is some really good stuff, good choice. People buy dry rock instead of Live Rock because they dont' want all the risky hitchhickers that come with it. Buying Fully Cure Live Rock will knock your cycle down to one week instead of 4-6 weeks.

Also I bought some products that my brother recommended I put in when I start the tank.( Kent Strontium & Molybdenum, Kent Essential Elements, Kent Coral-vite, Seachem Reef Complete, Instant Ocean Bio-Spira) Well the 1st 4 I mentioned were left in the trunk of my car for like a week, does it matter?
When you start, there is no need to add anything. Test your water in the beginning for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and Salinity. Once cycle is complete test for those + Magnesium, ALK, CA, and PH. Then worry about what you need to dose to keep them where they need to be. All you need is in the Salt to begin with.

Just looking for guidance so I do this right the first time :roll:
:-D Depending on what you plan on keeping in the tank. You need 10x the water volume in turnover for FOWLR and at least 20x the water turnover for a Reef.
 
#6 ·
Well I just got my tank up and running a few hours ago. So far just 20# of Carib sea live sand, 7# of pukani live rock, and 20g of saltwater. I'm buying a hydor 425gph powerhead. I will post pics of the initial setup and some of after it cleared up. I'm getting a magnet to clean and a few accessories. I'll keep everyone updated.
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#7 ·
Well I just got my tank up and running a few hours ago. So far just 20# of Carib sea live sand, 7# of pukani live rock, and 20g of saltwater. I'm buying a hydor 425gph powerhead. I will post pics of the initial setup and some of after it cleared up. I'm getting a magnet to clean and a few accessories. I'll keep everyone updated.
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Sand should cover at least 2" of the bottom. Live Rock, if you are going Reef, you should have at least 2# per gallon, as this acts as your filter. No skimmer? Going weekly water changes?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Im going to look into a Skimmer tomorrow, but the LFS all charge an arm and a leg for everything! 60 bucks for a hydor koralia nano 260gph! Yes though I plan on adding a skimmer, and a power head ASAP. Also im looking at making a fuge under the tank. Also I have heard from just about everyone in the hobby that sand is either to be 1" or less, Or 4-6"
 
#9 ·
These pictures were taken right after I topped it off, Still quite cloudy.




These pictures were taken about 6 hours later, it had cleared up pretty nicely. Thats just 7# of Pukani LR, I do plan on adding more but I'm wating for the LFS to have bigger pieces. Also the aquascaping didnt turn out bad for doing it while the tank was cloudy.



Tomorrow I'll be adding the Hydor Koralia Nano 425gph Powerhead, a Magnet cleaner, and Possibly a Skimmer.
 
#11 ·
I might have everything overnighted from BRS. I do have a few questions about this though. If I were to order Pukani DRY ROCK, Can I just put it into my tank with the Live Rock and let the bacteria spread? Or are there steps to introducing Dry Rock into my aquarium.
 
#13 ·
i suggest taking a look at marco rocks dry rock.

adding dry rock to what you already have will require more patience then just using all live rock. it will take atleast a month or two for the dry rock to seed depending on your live/dry ratio.
youd save money using dry rock, and you can save money while you wait for its cure.
 
#16 ·
You mentioned that you got dry rock. Your tank needs to cycle first, which is going to take around 4-6 weeks.
Typically after live rock is collected from a reef rubble area, it has to be transported to a dealer,an aquarium store, and then finally to the aquarists.. The problem is that during each of thetransportation or storage periods less than ideal conditions are provided for the live rock.
Many of the organisms become unduly stressed by stewing in their own wastes for extendedperiods and lack of light.
It is likely that many will even die. Additionally there are species that cannot even survive withina reef aquarium for various reasons. Cycling allows the dying animals and plants contained onthe rock to die off and the resulting products from the decay of the tissue to be further processedinto relatively harmless compounds.
The cycling period gives an aquarist an opportunity to see evidence of the ammonia cycle, ornitrification which is the conversion of ammonia to nitrate.
During this cycling period the ammonia level rapidly climbs as heterotrophic bacteria process thedead organisms. This high level of ammonia, with ammonia being toxic to most marineorganisms, can have a synergistic effect and cause more organisms to die. Which will then inturn produce more ammonia. The populations of bacteria involved in the converting ammonia tonitrite quickly build up to sufficient numbers to process the waste generated and the ammonia levels go down to undetectable levels (by aquarist test kits).
Nitrite then becomes the dominant toxic species present, which another group of bacteria feed onand convert to nitrate. The nitrite to nitrate bacteria take a bit longer to build up a sufficientpopulation to handle the waste, but then the nitrite levels will become undetectable by aquarist test kits. This is the important part at this point but later denitrification can start and remove thenitrate which starts to increase in concentration.
It is possible to buy live rock cycled, partially cycled or almost straight from the reef. If the liverock is going to be utilised in an existing reef aquarium then cycled live rock should be used.This will minimise the peak in ammonia and nitrite caused by the addition of the rock to thesystem as there will be very little die off. In a well maintained tank it is even possible to add some additional live rock to the system without any visible adverse effect to the inhabitants.
It is preferable to cycle the live rock in the target aquarium, not in the collectors, dealers oraquarium stores tanks. What this will allow is; greater control over the cycling period, thepossibility of more organisms surviving this highly stressful period, and minimise the loss ofmobile organisms that can leave the rock.
How this can be done is discussed in the following section.
 
#17 ·
How Do You Cycle Live Rock?

The current general procedure for cycling live rock is to throw it into a large container, either thetarget aquarium or a large cycling tank, have a skimmer operating on the system, add largeamounts of circulation and provide no lighting.
It is left there for about 2-4 weeks and the ammonia and nitrite levels are monitored.Thecirculation is required to allow good nutrient and waste exchange between the live rock and thewater, to assist in the removal of any dying organisms from the rocks, and to minimise any areasthat may go anaerobic.
Areas may become anaerobic because of a large organism dying and the large oxygen usage bythe bacteria processing the tissue. No lighting is provided to avoid any excessive micro algaeblooms in the system while nutrients are at an elevated level.
The length of the cycle takes around 2-4 weeks, from the time the rock is placed in the vessel towhen the nitrite levels drop to undetectable levels.
Longer periods are possible, and in some rare cases the cycle seems to get stuck after theammonia levels drop. The reason for this is still unclear, but may have something to do withinhibitors for the nitrite to nitrate bacteria (which are more sensitive to environmental conditions and slower growing than the ammonia to nitrite bacteria) being introduced into thesystem via some mechanism.
The 'dark' technique of cycling of live rock is seen by the author as an out of date technique. Itreally should be avoided because there is no effort made to make the cycling period less stressfulfor any of the organisms present.
There is a much better way to do it which will provide a higher survival rate.
The idea is to; provide enough light to photosynthetic organisms such that they can survive andlow enough such that micro algae cannot bloom during this period of high nutrient levels, andremove as much of the waste from the system before it becomes converted into a pollutant orremove the pollutant from the system.
The best type of lighting to use is actinic as it is typically of the correct wattage and it suppliesdirectly the wavelength ranges that the photosynthetic organisms utilise. So far as a rule of thumb around 0.14 W/lt (1 W/gal) is a sufficient level to use.
The lights are operated on an increasing length of time during the cycling period, starting at around 6 hours per day, then increasing an hour every couple of days until the full day length is reached. Note that this is based on the authors own experience and that of another aquarists usingthis technique that the author has communicated with.
Further experimentation in this area could be done to further clarify this, but in the cases where it has been use there has been a good survival. Once the cycling is over, then the other lighting can then be gradually phased in. Need to avoid any sudden addition of light as this will stress any photosynthetic organism as they take time to adjust to new lighting levels.
In addition to the lighting used, continuous operation of a skimmer, activated carbon, and regular water changes should be implemented. These activities are used with the idea of transporting as much of the waste and pollutants from the water, therefore reducing stress in thesystem.
The use of the skimmer and activated carbon removes compounds before they can be broken down by the heterotrophic bacteria. Water changes remove compounds before they can breakdown, but also remove some of the toxic ammonia, nitrite and other pollutants from the system.
There is no reason to worry about substantially prolonging the cycling period by using waterchanges because the amount of nutrients for the bacteria has been reduced. This is a myth.
Bacteria will grow and multiply at a exponential rate, with all environmental factors staying constant, until there is a high enough population to process all of the available nutrients. At this point the population will stablise.
A change in the nutrient level, which will change the end population required, will make a very small change in the time frame required to reach this point because of the exponential growth rate. Additionally at the end of the cycling period, all of the dead organisms have been processed so there is now a reduced amount of nutrients available.
The bacteria population will adjust to the level to process the amount of nutrients now being generated in the system by living organisms. This will most likely result in a reduction in the population from a peak during the cycling period. There is no way that initially an operating system will generate as much nutrients as is generated during the cycling period. Therefore reducing the amount of waste and nutrients will not influence the final bacteria population or thetime frame to any large extent.
The recommend method of cycling live rock is summarised as follows:
  • As the live rock is unpacked remove any white, slimy areas and anything else that is decaying. The white spots where an organism, typically a soft coral, hard coral or sponge, has died. Removal will help to minimise the stress on the system by removing another source of nutrients.
  • Clean off some of the invertebrates on the rock, such as sponges and corals. But unless you know what you are removing and are experienced they you may remove some very valuable specimens. There is no need to be so harsh and take to it with a brush and scrub it clean. This practice is rather excessive.
  • Inspect each rock for the presence of bristle worms and remove any if found. Bristle worms have a tendency to come out of the rock, or hang partially out, after the rock has been in transit.
  • It is a good idea to remove any plant growth, both macro and micro algae, as these can easilyre-grow from the root system left behind.
  • Arrange the live rock in the aquarium. Ensure that only small areas are in contact with the bottom of the aquarium and between the rocks. This will ensure good water circulation around the reef structure. Working towards small contact areas between the rocks also helps to build an open reef structure with many tunnels, arches, overhangs and caves. This has the added bonus of making a much more interesting reef structure to look at.
  • Position return and circulation pump outlets such that there is good water movement throughout the entire reef structure. In dead spots detritus will accumulate. This can be use to an advantage by making a spot where detritus can settle that is easy to access. Then regularly the detritus can be siphoned out of the system.
  • A mechanical filter can be used during this period to help remove suspended solids from the system, but ensure that it is cleaned regularly, every day is preferred. This is because the material the filter catches is not removed from the system. It will continue to break down and contribute to the addition of pollutants in the system.
  • Operate the skimmer continuously and tune such that a dry, dark foam is collected.
  • Keep activated carbon in a high flow area of the system such that the water passes through it.Once the cycle is over use activated carbon as usual, whether intermittently or continuous.
  • Operate the actinic lighting from the beginning, starting with about a 6 hour photo-period.Gradually increase this by an hour every couple of days until the full day length of 12-14 hours is attained.
  • If white spots appear on the rock or something appears to be dying then siphon or remove it from the rock.
  • Regularly perform partial water changes and siphon out any detritus that has settled anywhere in the system.
  • The more frequent these water changes the better, as this helps to keep the levels more constant without giving huge swings. The amount of the water change can vary, but a 50% is a good start. If there are problems with such a high volume change then decrease to a level that is possible. But the higher the water change the better as it will remove more of the nutrients and pollutants.
  • When the cycling period is over, with ammonia and nitrite levels undetectable, start to phase in the main system lights. Do this gradually to reduce stress on the photosynthetic organisms present and to avoid a micro algae bloom.
  • Start a regular maintenance program, including water changes at the length and volume for a normal operating system. This varies, but around 5-10% of the system volume per month is currently recommend. But higher and lower levels have been successfully used by various aquarists.
 
#19 ·
Algae bloom, no not always. Diatoms, yes. this is a normal bloom in a new tank, but will go away entirely by itself. your tank has cycled when your Ammonia reads 0, your Nitrites read 0, and your Nitrates have come down under 40. At this time, you make a wate change to knock the Trates down alittle more and your ready for a fish. If you add to many fish at one time, you'll throw your tank into another cycle. You can run your lights, skimmer and everything else you want to run in the tank during its cycle.
 
#20 ·
If I don't currently have a skimmer, is that a bad thing? I have 20lbs of pukani and it looks pretty full. I might add some small pieces at a later time, but at this point I'm satisfied. I added 10 hermits, blue and red legged. I have the hydor nano 425 going already and had the actinic light on for 6 hrs
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#21 ·
If I don't currently have a skimmer, is that a bad thing? I have 20lbs of pukani and it looks pretty full. I might add some small pieces at a later time, but at this point I'm satisfied. I added 10 hermits, blue and red legged. I have the hydor nano 425 going already and had the actinic light on for 6 hrs
Posted via Mobile Device
This is where it gets fuzzy. If your only going to run 20lbs of Live Rock, then I'd suggest getting s skimmer. You have to remember that the Live Rock acts as your filter, and if you don't have enough, then you will run into problems. Hydor is a good thing. Lighting is cool, and of your choice at this point.
 
#26 ·
I have a rough drafted stocklist
1 Perc Clown
1 Black Clown
1 Mandarin (Probably 6 months or so from now after my fuge has been running for awhile)
2 BG Chromis
1 Kaudern Cardinal

Pulsing Xenia
FrogSpawn
Torch Coral

I need to do more research to match up my corals with similar lighting but this is somewhat of a wish list
 
#28 ·
I have a rough drafted stocklist
1 Perc Clown
1 Black Clown
1 Mandarin (Probably 6 months or so from now after my fuge has been running for awhile)
2 BG Chromis
1 Kaudern Cardinal

Pulsing Xenia
FrogSpawn
Torch Coral

I need to do more research to match up my corals with similar lighting but this is somewhat of a wish list
Good start to the list. Basically LPS and Softies are going to be your best bet on lighting similarities. SPS and Anemones are the Light hungry monsters, and those need the cleanest of water.
 
#29 ·
Well I had my water checked today at the LFS, they said I need to let it cycle for a few days. The Ammonia was cycled but something else wasnt? I was too busy looking at the corals and drooling as I wait for my time to add them lol.. Imagination was running a little. I added Bio-Spira today along with some other adds.


7 ML of Seachem Reef Complete
3 ML of Kent Strontium & Molybdenum
5 ML of Kent Coral-Vite
3 ML of Kent Essential Elements
100 ML of Instant Ocean Bio-Spira


My brother encouraged me to add these so that when I add corals and such, Everything will be at the right levels.
 
#30 ·
Well I had my water checked today at the LFS, they said I need to let it cycle for a few days. The Ammonia was cycled but something else wasnt? I was too busy looking at the corals and drooling as I wait for my time to add them lol.. Imagination was running a little. I added Bio-Spira today along with some other adds.


7 ML of Seachem Reef Complete
3 ML of Kent Strontium & Molybdenum
5 ML of Kent Coral-Vite
3 ML of Kent Essential Elements
100 ML of Instant Ocean Bio-Spira


My brother encouraged me to add these so that when I add corals and such, Everything will be at the right levels.
Interesting. How do you know what those levels are? Are you testing for those also? Those are just adding crap to the water that you are waiting to cycle, they are not helping, as theres is nothing using them up, with the exception of the Live Rock. Your water changes take care of those elements for you. No need to dose.
 
#31 · (Edited)
I had Coralline Algae on my LR when I got it from LFS, It has all turned a light grey/white color. whats going on?

Note: This was before I added any additives to the water.

I moved a few pieces of LR around today because there were some that werent being used to fully take advantage and get as many pathways and arches as possible.






So I dont need to add anything right now? Since I already started should I keep adding them? A aquatic store in houston called CityPets told him he should add them. I dont know, I'm getting advice from everywhere. I am going to add coral hopefully friday or saturday IF I'm cycled by then which I hope to be.
 
#32 ·
I had Coralline Algae on my LR when I got it from LFS, It has all turned a light grey/white color. whats going on?

Note: This was before I added any additives to the water.

I moved a few pieces of LR around today because there were some that werent being used to fully take advantage and get as many pathways and arches as possible.






So I dont need to add anything right now? Since I already started should I keep adding them? A aquatic store in houston called CityPets told him he should add them. I dont know, I'm getting advice from everywhere. I am going to add coral hopefully friday or saturday IF I'm cycled by then which I hope to be.
If your adding coral right after the cycle, your going to have to be sure your parameters are good, or your going to lose them. Also, your brother is getting advice from someone trying to make a sale, I'm not here to sell you anything. I have a 240g tank with some corals and dose nothing except Phyto once in awhile. And no, I would not continue using stuff that isn't going to help the tank, and could possibly harm the tank.
Pics again look good.
 
#33 ·
The LFS warned that I should'nt add a Black Clown and a Perc in this small of a tank? If thats true, Then Would a 3 Stripe Damsel be acceptable? I know they are quite nippy but If I add him last would that be ok? I just want a fish thats black and white because I think it looks quite nice. Also, Here are a few pics of my tank, I took a flat LR piece from the back of my display and added it to the front as a place for my Frogspawn next week. (Hopefully)




 
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