Conversation Between AyalaCookiejar and Oldfishlady
Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 9 of 9
- Hi OFL.. I have a quick(ish?) question about lights or live plants...
I've ordered some 6500k daylight bulbs for my tank, but I was wondering what the affect on the plants would be if it was more or less than 6500k? Also, for plants that require more light, do they require a higher kelvin temp or do they require more watts per gallon? Will low light plants melt in a higher k rating or in higher watt per gallon ratio?
- Its not uncommon to have that in your source water-so I suspect you are doing the test correct. You can go to your city water web-site and see if their number are close to what you are getting. I wouldn't worry about the pH changes since it most likely is due to normal degassing-the gradual changes are generally tolerated.
One of the best water testers is the fish and your power of observation.
- Thank you for your patience with me. I think I may have done something wrong. I just tested the ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates for the tap water, treated tap water, and the tank water. All three are now showing .5 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrates and 5 ppm nitrates. The only difference is the untreated tap water is 7.4 Ph and the tank and treated water are 8. I followed all the directions, shook the nitrate bottle #2 til my arm
hurt and also had my boyfriend do it, haha. I took pictures of all of my results in case I just can't read them. Last time I tested the tap water I thought it was only at .25ppm.. I also did a 50% water change yesterday :/ I am planning on getting Seachem Prime, but I don't know what else to do about the ammonia until my tanks cycle. Neither of my fish are acting strangely, though.
- What are the results of the source water-with and without your regular additives for-ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Be sure and shake the heck out of the #2 nitrate reagent-it tends to settle and will cause skewed results. Also, what is the nitrate on the tank.
- Thanks. The instructions on the API liquid test kit are vague. It says to wait at least 5 minutes but doesn't give a timeline. I retested the nitrates, and it looks more yellow than it had when it sat for a day, but still has an orange tint. I know the results aren't always 100% accurate, but it looks to be between 0 and 5ppm. My biggest question was how it would be possible to cycle so quickly. The aquarium, filter, heater, and all decor are brand new.
I have two five gallon tanks of the exact same kind, and the other tank does not show a reading of 0 ammonia after 5 days like the new one does. Both tanks have the same tap water in them and I use the same water conditioner for both as well.
I've tested the ammonia and nitrites in the tank for the last four days and both have been at 0 every time.
- It is important to follow the directions to the "T" with the test products to get accurate results-especially on the reading results time-line. Its also a good idea to get a base line on your source water-both with and without the additives. This will help you rule out false or skewed results related to the additives used-since some of these products can cause changes.
- Hi OFL. I have a quick question about cycling. (I copied and pasted from my thread because I am lazy, LOL.) I was in a hurry yesterday when I tested the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in my new tank and didn't have time to empty the vials, so they've been sitting around for a day or two and the ammonia is still at 0, nitrites 0, and the nitrates vial is now orange (5ppm). Yesterday I was sure the nitrates were at 0. It was yellow. I waited about 5-10 minutes before checking. Did I check it too soon, or will they change colors if they sit for long enough?
I am confused because I set up this tank last Tuesday and I really don't understand how it could cycle that quickly, or if I just let the vials sit for too long. I tested my tap water for ammonia and compared it to the tank and there is actually more ammonia in the tap water, and I used conditioned tap water to fill the tank.