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Byron Byron is offline

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  1. FuelingFire
    05-20-2013 01:50 PM - permalink
    FuelingFire
    Thanks for all your help.
  2. Sakura8
    05-17-2013 03:54 AM - permalink
    Sakura8
    For the record, I asked about those people you mentioned out of curiosity, certainly not because I doubted you were being genuine. I didn't need specific names but thank you for providing them. It is nice to know some of those people are still active.
  3. Tropical Trav
    05-14-2013 01:58 PM - permalink
    Tropical Trav
    Filter media meaning the blue casing that the white insert goes into or remove carbon from the white part and put it back in the blue casing? Im not real sure what the end product should be.
  4. Tropical Trav
    05-14-2013 11:45 AM - permalink
    Tropical Trav
    Hey Byron, Just had a quick question. Should i remove the white insert that holds the carbon out of my filter? My tank is cycling, lots of plants etc. I just read something recently about not having the carbon in a planted tank but havent really seen much info on it. Just curious. I also read i should basically never change that piece.
    It is best not to use carbon in planted tanks as the carbon removes essential nutrients that the plants need, such as DOC (CO2 source). Filter media in general should be rinsed as needed to keep the water flow good, and only replaced when it falls apart or no longer performs its function. Byron.
  5. grannyfish
    05-04-2013 02:00 PM - permalink
    grannyfish
    I am having a dilemma with my 29 gallon community tank. Up to this point this tank had been going very well. I aquired 6 marble hatchetfish a couple weeks ago and within a few days 4 had died. The 2 remaining ones are doing quite well and look great BUT I now within three days have lost almost all of my ten neon tetras that I have had for at least 6 months. They are just dying off several a day. I noticed one of the two remaining ones has white cottony stuff on its head like ich. That is the only one that has shown any evidence of any disease before just dying. Do you have any idea what could be happening? Any suggestions for treatment? I now only have 2 young angelfish (that look and act fine), the 2 hatchetfish, 3 three-lined corys and 1 oto cat (I intended to add more otos soon) and a mess of cherry shrimp. This tank is heavily planted and all my water perimeters are fine. I am afraid if this is neon disease I have read about, the entire tank is doomed.
    Thread started.
  6. jakinthebox
    04-29-2013 11:52 PM - permalink
    jakinthebox
    Hi Byron, just want to say thank you so much for all the articles you have written, to find this information written in a way that the average person can understand (without a chemistry/biology background) is truly a gold mine. I have so many fish books but none of them explain in detail the finer points and balance that we need to understand in order to give our fish the habitat they deserve.
    Thank you for your kind words, they are much appreciated. B.
  7. grannyfish
    04-26-2013 08:25 AM - permalink
    grannyfish
    Bryon, yesterday I added 6 marble hatchetfish to my 29 gal community tank. It is heavily planted and everything has been doing great. I gradually added tank water to the hatchetfish and checked the pH in their bag. It was 7.2 and my tank is constantly 7.6 but the GH KH is between 50-100ppm. I can not get my pH lower. I have boxwood, oak leaves and have recently added Indian almond leaves. I am concerned my water might be too hard for the hatchetfish. Should I be concerned about this?
    No, I see no issue. Even at its hardest, 100ppm is only 5 dGH, and I raise my GH to 5 and 6 dGH and I have a large group of wild-caught hatchetfish, both Marble and Black-winged. GH is actually the more important. The pH may lower as the tank matures; if you want to pursue this, start a thread in Freshwater Aquarium. B.
  8. grannyfish
    04-24-2013 07:25 PM - permalink
    grannyfish
    Thanks Bryon. I didn't find your response until today. I guess I didn't know where it was posted. I contacted the seller of the driftwood and he says the wood is NOT cedar. I have put the pieces I bought in the aquarium and so far, so good. How soon did you notice you had a problem when you had driftwood kill half your fish? What wood do you recommend?
    If the wood begins to get real soft and basically rot, take it out. As for anything toxic in it, this is impossible to determine until it leaches out. I've only once had this occur in 20 years, and it was with some softish wood that in hindsight might have been cedar or similar. Since then I use Malaysian Driftwood, sometimes called ironwood; is it very dark brown, hard, and heavy, it sinks immediately. B.
  9. Tropical Trav
    04-22-2013 06:05 PM - permalink
    Tropical Trav
    I have a question about my 29 gallon tank cycling. I put 3 clown loaches in on Tuesday night (4-16). I have tested the water every 24 hours for the last 5 days (tonight will be day 6). I have the API freshwater master test kit. Every reading has been the same.

    pH 7.4
    ammonia .50 ppm
    nitrite 0
    nitrate 0

    Is this normal? I have 11 live plants so maybe they are taking the ammonia but i have no nitrite or nitrate. Is the tank cycling? Am i just being impatient? Please let me know if this is normal or not. Thanks.
    I am surprised at the ammonia. Plants will take up a lot of ammonia, and with sufficient plants and low fish load you will (or should) not see ammonia or nitrite at all, and nitrate may or may not show up eventually. Have you tested your tap water for ammonia? What plants are they? At this point, I suggest you post a thread in the forum so we can explore this better. BTW, clown loaches will grow much too large for this tank, you do realize that? B.
  10. grannyfish
    04-19-2013 01:52 PM - permalink
    grannyfish
    Hi Bryan, I just received 2 very lovely pieces of old driftwood I found on ebay that was advertised for aquarium use. It floats and one piece smells like cedar. It looks like it has been aged in water. Should it be safe to use? Thanks, Grannyfish
    I would not put cedar in an aquarium. Being a very soft wood, it will quickly decompose. And being soft it also absorbs substances more than hard woods and these can be toxic and leech out quickly. I had this occur with wood from a store years ago, killed half my fish before I realized what it was. B.

About Me

  • About Byron
    Location
    Vancouver, BC Canada
    Interests
    tropical fish, gardening, hiking, swimming, music, culinary
    Occupation
    retired
    Gender
    Male
    Total Years Fish Keeping Experience
    20+
  • Signature
  • Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

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    • Last Activity: 05-15-2014 11:58 AM
    • Join Date: 03-07-2009
    • Referrals: 2

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