5.5 gal stocking question? - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 09:55 PM
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If you do NOT know what detritus is then you are ill informed with your own knowledge.

"Ammonia is a chemical not a bacteria."
It has also been proven to effect the long term health of fish in any quantity in the water.

AGAIN WRONG
fish actually need some amount of Nitrate Do your research (LESS THE BETTER) hence why i aim at 4.0 PPM....I am not talking about nitrate here, just that ammonia is a chemical not bacteria.
If you do NOT know what detritus is then you are ill informed with your own knowledge.
/\ the difference between uk an us dialect i should think
ALSO I LEARNT FROM MY DAD WITH ACTUAL EXPERIENCE NOT OUT OF A BOOK

MY dad was one of the UK'S MOST PRESTIGIOUS MOLLY and LOACH BREEDER'S

FROM what you have told me get more light in your tank and add air stone or air curtain
maybe think of upping your temp a tiny bit to help you NITRATE problem

PS if you want to cycle your 180G than more fool you when you can create an environment where it will eradicate your nitrate problem

Last edited by madyotto; 03-25-2012 at 09:58 PM.
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post #22 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 10:17 PM
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I am originally from the UK and now living in Canada, not the US.

I do not need more light, I have 2 QUAD T5HO lights on the 180g tank...no algae problems as my synodontis multipunctus and Bristlenose Pleco take care of that.

Air stones, I personally do not like and have enough oxygenation created from the spray bar from my Rena XP4 and Penguin 350 and spraybar from my FX5.

Upping the temperature in my tank would likely cause stress to my fish as it is already at 78-80F (24-26C), why would I want to expose my fish to higher temperatures to remove nitrates? I have Nitrates at 20ppm and do a 90g water change in the 180g tank once a week. Nitrates will be 10ppm or less after the change.

I cycled my 180g in 2 weeks heavily using filter media and decorations from my other established tanks. I have also been keeping fish for 15 years, freshwater and also some years ago a 300g reef tank, just starting again with saltwater now.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #23 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 10:32 PM
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I am originally from the UK and now living in Canada, not the US.

I do not need more light, I have 2 QUAD T5HO lights on the 180g tank...no algae problems as my synodontis multipunctus and Bristlenose Pleco take care of that.

Air stones, I personally do not like and have enough oxygenation created from the spray bar from my Rena XP4 and Penguin 350 and spraybar from my FX5.

Upping the temperature in my tank would likely cause stress to my fish as it is already at 78-80F (24-26C), why would I want to expose my fish to higher temperatures to remove nitrates? I have Nitrates at 20ppm and do a 90g water change in the 180g tank once a week. Nitrates will be 10ppm or less after the change.

I cycled my 180g in 2 weeks heavily using filter media and decorations from my other established tanks. I have also been keeping fish for 15 years, freshwater and also some years ago a 300g reef tank, just starting again with saltwater now.
i agree your temp high enough there lol

you may not like air stones or bars but your fish will and if you want to change 90g of water how ever often ?
all because your pride will not let you learn than that is your problem

if i am wrong on all of this then explain how i kept a 180 gallon for 12 years with no cycles in such good water chemistry

i speak from experience which is FACT

if you lived in the uk and ever had molly's or LOACH

me and my dad would have more than likely bred them

As we used to pull approx 80 molly's a day at a very high standard (binning maybe 10 weak one's)

Selling them to the better fresh water sellers in the UK
Such as Stapley Water Gardens in it earlier years when it was the only place to get the very best quality of fish in the NW of England
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post #24 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 10:38 PM
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Water Changes - Dr. Bogger's Fish Keeping

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #25 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 10:48 PM
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And i would trust a doctor WHY lol :P

also as i say i will stick to what know

the fact is that not many professionals can hit a spot on setup

the second i get bad test reading i will change simple really

also your fish are well known for making lots of Nitrates

so you need lots more light as in strength not time
and lots more air also it is very good practise to have a starve day to also aid the filtration system to beat your nitrate problem
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post #26 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 10:58 PM
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I have extremely powerful lights on my tank so almost definitely do not need more regardless of how long they are on.

My 180g tank has an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) of +120mV and Biological Oxygen demand of 1.5mg/L which is almost biologically perfect for my setup and stocking level. This means that I do not require MORE oxygen and the gas exchange is easily managed by the surface agitation caused by the filter outputs.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #27 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 11:18 PM
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I have extremely powerful lights on my tank so almost definitely do not need more regardless of how long they are on.

My 180g tank has an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) of +120mV and Biological Oxygen demand of 1.5mg/L which is almost biologically perfect for my setup and stocking level. This means that I do not require MORE oxygen and the gas exchange is easily managed by the surface agitation caused by the filter outputs.
why do you seem to think that makes and models count

it is the light power that count and MAINLY the type of light given by the bulb
not what make the light unit is
ALSO a huge factor on light is how tall your tank is not water volume


and if you are so sure you have the right amount of air then actully give these details in liter's an hour
and not any other way if you can't do this then you have no understanding of the actual out put of air

also if it is all right for your stocking levels then you would also know that charts and tables do not KNOW how much you feed so there for a a rough guide on equipment to buy only

Last edited by madyotto; 03-25-2012 at 11:21 PM.
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post #28 of 54 Old 03-25-2012, 11:39 PM
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ORP is measured in millivolts and is not shown in L/h.

The lights I have are 4 x red spectrum 3500k bulbs and 4 x 6500k Blue spectrum bulbs which results in true full spectrum lighting. 2 x 430nm Actinic fixtures and 4 BLUE led for moonlighting.

The tank is a standard 180g so 72x24x24.

Air output will NOT reduce nitrates at all and if you can prove otherwise can you provide the link.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #29 of 54 Old 03-26-2012, 01:36 AM
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I think you have to concede Taz, after all he bred mollies!
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post #30 of 54 Old 03-26-2012, 07:56 AM
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I think we should all agree to disagree Madyotto, you may just want to post that your have different information/thoughts than most members here, when and if you are helping someone with cycling issues. That way people can make their own decisions about who's information to take or leave.

Thanks Taz for the article on water changes

It is possible to keep fish alive with poor water quality, (especially the more hardy species) but I still agree with what is common knowledge here: The best practice is a regular schedule of water changes.

Gwen

Just because animals can't talk, does not mean they should not be heard
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