02-15-2008, 01:37 AM
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Hello, Christa, welcome to the forum. You really know how to put the pressure on a group when you plan to use us as your trainer group. But, I think you made a good choice.
Let me answer your questions and give you the products that I use and maybe the reason I use them.
A.) "fish got bitten by another fish" -- This scenario doesn't happen often. Most fish do have dental work and many have their teeth in places other than their mouths. Teeth are sometimes located in or near the throat. These are called "pharyngeal teeth". Some fish have teeth that are for rasping algae from rocks. Many African cichlids, mbuna, are so dentured. When a fish becomes injured with what looks like a bite mark or has scales remove, I use products like PimaFix, MelaFix, or StressCoat.
B.) " my child fed the fish tank the entire can of food" -- It happens. Although it is usually the fish food and not the cat food. A complete water change is sometimes, and more often than not, the remedy here. Adding anti ammonia chemicals or filtering heavily over a product like "Zeolite" would be my suggestion. Increase filtration if possible. One should also take frequent readings by testing the tank for ammonia spikes. Observe the behavior of the fish closely. If you observe any stress, rapid breathing, red gills, erratic swimming, perform an immediate 50% water change.
C.) " adding some new fishies to my tank" -- The answer to that question depends upon the age of the tank. If the tank has "cycled", place the bag at the top of the tank to let the temperatures acclimate. Some use "isolation" tanks to let fish settle in and to use as a "quarantine" tank to insure that no diseases are brought into your tank. I do this sometimes, especially when I have wild caught fish to be added to an established tank. As far as any additives, I use none.
D.) " dechlorinating a new aquarium" -- A water conditioner can be used here. However, many public water systems have done away with using chlorine as a disinfectant in your water supply. Allowing the water to stand for 24 hours will normally allow the chlorine in the water to dissipate.
E.) "cloudy but healthy tank" -- This is a misnomer. If the water is cloudy then something is usually wrong. It could be an algae bloom. In which case, using a "flocculant" only magnifies the problem. The solution would be to cut back on feeding and the amount of light in the tank. "Flocculants" bind the particles together and force them to sink, where they rot on the bottom creating more "fertilizer". Algae food. It turns into a vicious circle. The only time that "cloudy water" may be considered good is in the beginning, while cycling, many tanks have a bacteria "die off". This is just the tank balancing the equilibrium between the amount of bacteria needed to maintain a healthy equilibrium.
I don't use most of what you have listed. I like StressCoat, MelaFix, and PimaFix as they contain natural, herbal products. Chemicals ar not necessarily good in the aquarium. Good luck and happy learning.