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Old 06-15-2011, 10:35 PM   #21
 
Question Good params, but now more alage...

Hi there and more questions,

Well the param. are where they should be now I think and what a change in 24 hours. PH was 8.4-7.8; AM. .25-0; Nitirite .05-0; Nitrate steady at 5. BUT! The algae is not just suspeneded anymore and buildi starting to build some in my breeder tank and I think on some of the gravle, so bet it is on the plastic plants. I can't see any on the glass. but kind of hard to tell. The guppies are hanging more at the top and less active which they have always been very active . I only feed every other day other than the baby and Momma to be. I did discover this morning that the sun has swung more east so 1/4 of the tank gets hit in the morning for I think about 1 1/2 hours . I will cover that end with a blanket before I got to bed tonight. My yellow triangle fosm filter the green aglage is gone and has brown spots. I was told this is good as it it good bacteria, the param. really dropped in 5 days since it appeared. I opened the lid and kept it open for maybe more oxygen??

My Java Moss does not come until next Wednesday. Should I get like 3 ottos now ? I know I need more than one. And I only have 2 corries. Is it time to get 1 or 2 more a little while after I get the ottos? The lights are on 8-10 hours. (17 watt Flour.) Less is not good for the fry. The water does not have an odor.

Thank you once again!! gupgram
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:49 PM   #22
 
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Algae will appear in tanks with nutrients and light; in the absence of live plants there is nothing else to sue the light and nutrients so algae will. When you ahve the plants this will help. Keep direct sunlight off the tank, that will add to algae issues again especially without plants.

If common green algae or brown algae (diatoms) are present, otos will settle in fine. Wait a bit before adding more fish.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:41 PM   #23
 
Ok, will do. I ordered a phophate kit today, along with an Aquaclear 50. I do plan on eventrually adding more than the Otto's. Petmountain has great prices! I had a coupon so also got free shipping anything over $49. Also got a Master API test kit. The dumbe Red Sea nitirte, is hard! You have to hold the color card 8" below bottom of test tube, look through the test tube with one eye! Do you think the Java Moss is enough as a low light plant as long as I don't let it take over. I can also get Wisteria for low light. I will wait some day to go to sand substrate, as you are so right, the fish have been stressed enough. Also realized the original LFS when I took my water in after 3 weeks to see if it was ready for fish, she just looked at the API amonia test tube from across the counter (at least 5 feet) and declared it fine! I really don't think my tank was fully cycled! The nitrate went up again to day to 20 from 5 but isn't that supposed to be good for plants? The rest are 0. Ph back up to 8.2. Hard to believe water can change in 24 hours! It was clearly 7.8 yesterday from 8.4. Fish seem fine but Momma not dropping babies and rest are not breeding but understand not unusual until water param are good. It has been a long haul it seems since April. Just need guidance as to when to do what. Course you can't tell right?
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:08 PM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gupgram View Post
Ok, will do. I ordered a phophate kit today, along with an Aquaclear 50. I do plan on eventrually adding more than the Otto's. Petmountain has great prices! I had a coupon so also got free shipping anything over $49. Also got a Master API test kit. The dumbe Red Sea nitirte, is hard! You have to hold the color card 8" below bottom of test tube, look through the test tube with one eye! Do you think the Java Moss is enough as a low light plant as long as I don't let it take over. I can also get Wisteria for low light. I will wait some day to go to sand substrate, as you are so right, the fish have been stressed enough. Also realized the original LFS when I took my water in after 3 weeks to see if it was ready for fish, she just looked at the API amonia test tube from across the counter (at least 5 feet) and declared it fine! I really don't think my tank was fully cycled! The nitrate went up again to day to 20 from 5 but isn't that supposed to be good for plants? The rest are 0. Ph back up to 8.2. Hard to believe water can change in 24 hours! It was clearly 7.8 yesterday from 8.4. Fish seem fine but Momma not dropping babies and rest are not breeding but understand not unusual until water param are good. It has been a long haul it seems since April. Just need guidance as to when to do what. Course you can't tell right?
Nitrate (with the "a", not nitrite with the "i") increasing is a sign of good cycling, so nothing wrong there. Plants prefer ammonium as their nitrogen source, which is why they grab ammonia so fast. But slow growing plants like Java Fern obviously use less that faster growing as Wisteria. The more plants you have, the less nitrate because more ammonia (ammonium) is being grabbed by plants and not bacteria so there is less nitrate.

Wisteria needs a bit more light, it is moderate to high light requiring. Java Fern will not likely take over your tank, it is not a particularly fast growing/reproducing plant. Wisteria could take over a tank within a few weeks.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:13 PM   #25
 
Thumbs up Thank you so much!!

First thank you so very much for explaining the plants. My computer went down before I saw the answer. My friend gave me this floating Wisteria. She has like a Betta, I think a Goldfish and some other kind. So I put it in. The guppies pulled it apart and made a mess! The Algae bloom got worse and then one of the new Otto's I found dying (about all gone) in it!! It was a mess! I was like what now? The params. on the 20th were PH. 8.4 (been using a high PH kit, didn't know there was a low since I just got a master kit today so not real sure which to use...more in a minute). Amo. 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5.

So now the almost dead fish and green water (No algae on glass, now slime on plastic plants or ornaments), so took the Otto out and the Wisteria. Changed out 6 gallons water. Added an Aqua Filter 50, but left my now very brown gross looking sponge in unitl the Aqua Clear gets 'colonized'. Do you know how long that will take? It sure is QUIET!! (With the RSD, in pain a lot, so sleep in reclyner a lot and bubbling is loud). I did test the water after the change. Params. are: low PH test was 7.6, high PH test was 8.2; everything else is 0. OH, and got an API nitrite test now. The Red Sea one was awful!! You had to close one eye, look through the tube holding card 8" below tube!

Wow, the fish are swimming all around...guppies, Otto's, and Corries. I sure hope the other 2 Otto's will be ok. I only feed every other day. My Java Moss did not come in yesterday, still waiting on it. NO more Wisteria!!

I umm, was in tears for the dead little Otto and frustration of the Algae! Long haul it seems since April, but know the first LFS was NOT correct that my tank at 3 weeks was not finished cycled. I hope I get my tank to look CLEAR like yours are soon!!

Why specially one whole side of the sponge dark brown all the way through? Do I use High PH or Low PH test? Do you know how long to let the AquaClear work before removing sponge? Do you think I can then cut down my sponge filter and put it in a new gallon tank for future baby guppies if it is brown?

Any and all help will be so appreciated! I like how Wisteria & Java Moss you can click on them and it gives all about them!
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:15 PM   #26
 
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Sponge filters should be rinsed out regularly, i do mine every week. They are good at capturing particulate matter, and bacteria readily grow on them. The brown sludge is a sign the filter is doing its job.

On the pH, I would test the tap water with both and then use the one that is the same (hopefully it will be, or very close) to what the water supply folks say the pH is.
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:10 PM   #27
 
Understand the sponge...

Hi Bryon,

Well it is really brown over half of it through and through. I would like to cut it down to make a fry tank and use it in that. The fry tank will be in a different room, so I won't hear the bubbling. I will rinse it in old tank water once a week. Should I now be changing the water daily as some say for algae bloom or once a week?

My params always seem good and the spring/ distilled water mix is the same PH as the tank water. Oh did test my first phosphate test but did it after the watercahnge. It showed 0 phosphate. Now to wait 24 hours and see what the params are I guess.

I do cover the tank so the morning sunlight won't hit it. It will hit about 1/8th area at the end of the tank sort of from an angle. It sits in the middle of the family room wall. The north side windows are about 8-10 feet away facing south. The tank is on the west wall. No other windows in the room. I keep the 17 watt Flourecent light on 8-10 hours because of the one baby guppy I have. He is doing good and is a month old. Hmm, since we are in this room so much maybe my chair side light is adding to it in the evenings. It is about 12 feet away. If Roger (my hubby) has his on it is a little more lightin the room, should I cover the tank as soon as I turn out the tank light?

Everything is O but the nitrate which is 5. The 16th it was 20, next day 10, then 5. If you could guide me as to how often to change the water and how much. I know I need to let the AquaCleaar do it's job too.

Well tomorrow is our 39th anniversary! Doesn't seem possible!

Take care!
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:26 PM   #28
 
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When the tank light comes on and goes out, there must be light in the room, whether daylight or lamps. Otherwise the sudden change can shock fish.

What is this algae bloom, white cloudiness or green?

I'll see this tomorrow, going off momentarily.
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:48 PM   #29
 
I knew about the 'light'...

Hi guy, I knew about the 'light shock' factor. So after the sun is off the tank, the room is light, I take the blanket off, wait about 15 mintues before I turn on a room light, wait another 15 mins. then turn on the tank light. Then I wait about 1/2 hour to feed if feed day for them, all but the baby and I feed it about 4 times a day, and never feed it then turn the light right off. Tonight I turned the tank light off, the room is brighter than I thought with both lamps on, so waited 15 mins then covered the tank. The lights face the tank! I am up late to about 12M. Sooo, waiting until I go to bed to cover the tank, thats a lot of light it is getting!

The bloom color is green! You can see the green specially if I dip some in a white cup, or when I take it off...yup! Green. We been using that water for our garden.

Hey, my dear friend who was with me for treatment in Richmond in 2006, is coming to Vancover and Richmond in August to see her friends there and the folks at Richmond Hyperbarics! I sure wish we could come up! I am orig. from NH so LOVE mountains!

Good Evening and you are a blessing! My hubby thanks you to! Just keep telling us some day our tank will look good!
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:38 PM   #30
 
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I might suggest not using the blanket, if I understand this correctly. Contrasts from that intense a darkness to any light then back to darkness, more light, etc is not likely to be beneficial. The tank light itself should be on regular hours daily, it can vary from as little as 6 to 10 or 12, depending upon plants, algae, etc., but a regular schedule is a good idea. You can set it to be on when you are there to enjoy it. A simple lamp timer that you can get in a hardware store will work for this.

Direct sunlight is something thaqt should not be allowed to hit the aquarium. It is not so bad in winter when the sun is less intense, though that can still be problematic. Not only the light aspect but heat too. I have blinds in my fishroom that allow lots of daylight in but no direct sun.

Now to the green water, that is caused by unicellular algae. It means there is too much light and probably nutrients too. Are there live plants in this tank, sorry, I've forgotten.
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