Why do I keep losing fish? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 12:57 AM
I think Prime can help neutralize ammonia. also live plants can help.

it'd really help us to know what fish are in there and what ypuve lost. then wd can help you figure out if the tank and water is a proper home. and maybe you have fish that just rt sick a lot.

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post #12 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 12:58 AM
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You may want to start using Prime to condition your water. If the tank is not fully cycled or is going through a mini-cycle you will still need to monitor your parameters and perform adequate water changes until things calm down.

Here is the info on Prime
Seachem. Prime

and here are some FAQ's regarding testing while using Prime
General chemistry question about Prime. [Archive] - Seachem Support Forums

When you dose with Prime during your water changes you need to use the amount of Prime for the total number of gallons of your tank, not just for the amount of water you are replacing. For example, in a 50 gallon tank you use 1 capful of Prime, the directions on the bottle say that 1 capful will treat 50 gallons of water. The dosage does not have to be "prefectly" measured, i.e. a little bit extra is not going to hurt your fish. Better to be a tad over, than a tad under the correct dose.

I believe the process Prime goes through to detoxify ammonia, nitrites and nitrates is effective in your tank for up to 72 hours, so if you have measurable levels of any of these three harmful things in your tank, by doing a water change after 72 hours the protection level starts all over again. Someone correct me if I am wrong on this.
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post #13 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 01:01 AM
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Last edited by lakemalawifish; 12-05-2012 at 01:02 AM. Reason: Thread posted two times
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post #14 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 01:06 AM
Huh. never been told you need to dose enough prime in thd nee water for the whole tank. I've only ever used asuch as i needed for what's in the bucket. interesting.

i also wanted to mention that i used to keep my community areound 80-82, but someone told me that the extremes of a fish's range are a no no. i used to lose danios all the time. mow i have 3 left who won't go now that i need them gone lol.

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post #15 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 01:08 AM
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I did not know that either about Prime until I called Seachem and asked them several questions when I stopped using Stress Coat and switched to Prime. Also, elevated water temps above 80 can make some fish more aggressive. I try to keep our tanks at 78, but the fry and holding tanks are at 80.
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post #16 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 01:18 AM
I've also never heard of elevated temp causing aggression. Idk about cichliss really, except scalare angelfish, and even they don't need it over about 74, or so I've been told. 82 seemz waaay high foe a typical tropical community tank. by idk what fiah he has.

also i apologoze for typos, on my phone right now lol
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post #17 of 18 Old 12-05-2012, 12:20 PM
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There are several issues in this thread, which I will try to sort out as best I can. Some are very serious to the fish.

First to clear up about Prime, there is no need to use more than what will handle the replacement water. Seachem is a fairly reliable firm, but nevertheless they are in business to make money and getting us to use more of their products than we need will increase their business. But more to the point, all this stuff going in the water does affect fish, as the more conditioner you use the more chemicals and TDS are going in the water, and these do affect fish in varying degrees. The less the better.

To the initial question of DJbootleg. I have no idea of your level of experience or knowledge, but understanding how the many factors there are that affect the biology in an aquarium is key to success. As others have asked, we need to know the specific fish species and numbers in these tanks where fish are regularly dying. Are there any live plants in these tanks? When did the deaths begin, and can you relate this to any changes or new fish? What are their symptoms before they die? Do you see any aggression between fish, minor though it may be?

Until we know the above, there is little we can do to pinpoint the issue. But a couple of comments can be made about some of the factors mentioned already. Temperature is critical. All fish have a preferred range within which they will function at their best and thus be healthier. It is usually best to avoid the high end of these ranges long-term. As someone mentioned, higher temperatures can cause fish to become stressed, sick, and die, due to the increase in their metabolism this causes. Unlike us, fish are governed by their surrounding temperature and cannot regulate their internal temperature differently. A higher temp will not mean less infections, quite the opposite. It is true that raising the temp to 90F will kill ich, but you can't maintain this temperature for any fish. And ich is only one of a myriad of pathogens and protozoan that can affect and kill fish.

On the ammonia in the tap water, this is serious at a level of 2ppm. A water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia is essential (StressCoat does not), and in this case smaller and more frequent rather than larger and less frequent water changes may be needed, depending upon how fast the bacteria can take up the ammonia. Live plants will significantly improve this, as they are hungry for ammonia/ammonium as their preferred source of nitrogen. Water conditioners that detoxify ammonia only remain effective for 24-48 hours, and the pH is another factor.

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Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #18 of 18 Old 12-08-2012, 11:15 PM
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Prime... using prime will neutralize the water in your tap however its a temporary measure. What you actually need is a ro/di system for around $250, and that is probably why all your fish are dying btw.

Also keep your temp at around 76-78 and only raise it if your actively fighting an infection.

Edit: btw the di not just ro is what removes ammonia.

Last edited by cpwebsite; 12-08-2012 at 11:21 PM.
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