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post #1 of 6 Old 06-02-2010, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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water prameters

Finally got my test kit from my ex and did a test on my tank last night my results are as follows

nitrite 0 ppm
nitrate 5 ppm
amm 0 ppm
pH was like 8.4 and here in lies my problem. What fish can survive in that high of pH. The tank is planted with playsand as a substrate. I have a canister filter a magnum 220(iirc).

I do have this stuff that says it will changed the pH to 7(no matter if low or high) but if I can get some fish with out having to mess with extra stuff to put in my water I would rather do that.

I am getting my hardness testing stuff today and will test that tonight

5 gallon
Beta
3 MTS(sure to be mean more soon)

55 gallon
Bloat who is a Fahaka puffer
Plants
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-02-2010, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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oh and temp is about 80

5 gallon
Beta
3 MTS(sure to be mean more soon)

55 gallon
Bloat who is a Fahaka puffer
Plants
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-02-2010, 06:40 PM
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My main point in responding is to warn you against the pH adjusting chemicals. They usually don't work because the pH is determined (largely) by the carbonate hardness of the water which buffers it against changes. Adding a pH low product will drop it, but the naturally carbonate buffers will kick in and raise it back. Adding more just repeats. The fluctuating pH is worse on any fish than a stable one that may be somewhat out of the preferred range. If the afore-mentioned back and forth continues, at some point the acid being added may be sufficient to offset the carbonate buffering capability, resulting in a very sudden pH crash, and dead fish.

There are safe methods to lower pH, such as RO (reverse osmosis) or even peat and wood, but these depend upon the hardness; the latter is fine if it is low, but the harder the water the more peat and more often it needs replacing, so RO would be better.

As for the present water, rift lake cichlids would be fine, and most of the livebearers could handle this, although I'd like to know the actual hardness numbers first. If the hardness is low, the pH will naturally fall over time, and one can work with this to effectively lower pH.

There are a lot of inter-related issues, but the first thing we need to know is the actual hardness. Your water board should have this data available, and it will be more accurate than our tests.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-02-2010, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so my thoughts against using the pH chem are right. Thanks

What do you mean my water board? Do you mean my local water company?

5 gallon
Beta
3 MTS(sure to be mean more soon)

55 gallon
Bloat who is a Fahaka puffer
Plants
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-02-2010, 07:15 PM
zof
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Water boards are groups that manage the water resources in an area, the company is the one that actually distributes and sells the water, I would image both would post it but if you can find out who your board is they should almost certainly post it.
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-02-2010, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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alright guess its time to get searching

5 gallon
Beta
3 MTS(sure to be mean more soon)

55 gallon
Bloat who is a Fahaka puffer
Plants
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