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Spotted african leaf fish

This is a discussion on Spotted african leaf fish within the Freshwater and Tropical Fish forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by jeppun21 So with these regular water changes would they keep the levels in my tank low and also keep my plants ...

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Spotted african leaf fish
Old 05-28-2011, 10:00 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by jeppun21 View Post
So with these regular water changes would they keep the levels in my tank low and also keep my plants healthy? Was wondering since i have a heavly planted tank do i need to get a co2 machine or something like that? THank you very much for all ur advise :)

jep
The majority of aquarium plants will grow very well without added CO2. Growth is usually slower in some species, but healthy. There are a few species that tend to need additional CO2, but these are few. I have never bothered with CO2 as I cannot see the need for that extra expense. It means more lighting for one thing, because once you start increasing a particular component of the "balance" you have to increase everything to keep a balance. That is not only expensive (electricity is not cheap), it is setting a higher level of balance which means more can go wrong. I prefer to rely on nature and intervene as little as possible.

As I mentioned previously, ammonia and nitrite should never be above zero in an established tank; if they are, and if this is caused by something in the tank and not externally as in the source water, something is wrong. If you do a weekly partial water change of at least 30% you shouldn't ever see ammonia or nitrite. And with healthy plants, nitrate will be very low, below 10ppm. This is healthy.

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jeppun21 (05-28-2011)
Old 05-28-2011, 10:29 AM   #22
 
Thank you very much byron.. I thnk i'll do exactly like you said... do about a 30 percent water change every week and i'll moniter the levels after i do them:) Can i have ur thoughts on something... i have a 10 gallon tank with 4 neon tetras and 2 guppys... was wondering should i upgrade to a 20 or go higher.. do u thnk the bigger the tank the more maintinance.. or less

thank you jep
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:56 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by jeppun21 View Post
Thank you very much byron.. I thnk i'll do exactly like you said... do about a 30 percent water change every week and i'll moniter the levels after i do them:) Can i have ur thoughts on something... i have a 10 gallon tank with 4 neon tetras and 2 guppys... was wondering should i upgrade to a 20 or go higher.. do u thnk the bigger the tank the more maintinance.. or less

thank you jep
Always take water tests prior to a water change. This will tell you the state of the water generally. You can test some things (like ammonia) following as well, to see if it has improved if it was above zero before. But always test prior to the change.

If you can afford a 20g, definitely get it. And a 20g long is better than the normal 20g high. A longer tank provides more surface area, which means more space to swim, more substrate area and more water surface area to allow more exchange of gasses which is healthier. Also, with live plants, the light will have a shorter distance to reach the lower plants so they will benefit.

And once you get the 20g L, I would get more neons (assuming you like and want this fish). A group of 6 is minimum, but more is better. i like odd numbers for no scientific reason, just aesthetics, so i would have 7 minimum, but 7, 8 or 9 in a 20g long would be fine. And you have space for substrate fish, maybe a group of corys (5 in a 20g long)? Or a whiptail catfish for something unique?

As for maintenance, whatever the tank, a weekly water change of 30-50% is needed. This only takes minutes for a 10g or 20g. Also, the more water volume, the less chance of trouble as it is more stable. This affects may areas, not just biological, but temperature, pH, etc.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:43 PM   #24
 
Just a suggestion.. On your water changes I would start with 30% and if the ammonia continues then go to 50%. 50 % allows your tank to be more susceptible to stress and bio shock because as you drain away and I assume cleaning up your substrate at the same time you are creating a unstable water condition until you can pump in that new water and get the filters to do their work. When I say unstable water condition I am stating that your 50% that is left is concentrated and stirred up to were the fish are taking in higher levels than what your water test kit shows. If you can get in the habit of doing water changes every week and keep the feeding to the 3 minute rule then 50% should never be needed.
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:16 AM   #25
 
THank you byron and skooter..

Welll i'll be starting my weekly water changes starting every thursday.. So when i do the water changes should i add some aquarium salt or stress coat... so my fish wont get stressed for doing a weekly water change or is it fine if i dont add it in...

thanks
jep
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